Adventure travel makes you feel alive, wakes you up to yourself as well as to your surroundings. That doesn’t have to mean hanging from a cliff by your fingernails (although if you’re into that, Vermont has plenty of mountains). You don’t have to dare death to feel glad you’re alive, or awed by what’s around you. Just being in Vermont can give you that get-away feeling. But adventure gets the blood flowing, the heart pumping. Walk through an orchard. Climb a mountain trail. Canoe on a lake so silently that the loons don’t dive underwater but watch you instead, as they continue their long, sorrowing cries into the dusk.
The adventures in this book provide a range of challenges, some relating to climate or wild terrain, others leading you to fresh perceptions of the natural world. Vermont is a mountainous state, still as green as its French name promised. It is a shelter for wild animals, rare plants, migrating birds. It is also a refuge for writers, artists, and musicians who thrive on beauty and seasonal changes. Life in its highest mountains provides a vivid physical challenge for outdoor enthusiasts. And in the towns and handful of small cities, entertainment flourishes. You can bring your family, your first date, your best friend, or come alone. The point is, you’re here for an adventure. You’re here to feel alive.
You can look the state over from its two (and that’s only two) interstate highways, or from a bicycle on a back road. Climbing a mountain in hiking boots or on a multispeed bike will give you different views; so will savoring the silent grace of a hot-air balloon ride over a valley. You might take advantage of having a llama walk beside you through a wildlife refuge, while your gourmet dinner awaits in the gentle beast’s saddlebags. Photograph the llama, or the moose that browses in the swamp, or the bold coloring of the pileated woodpecker. Vermonters have specialized in preserving both land and traditions. There’s even a song that crystallizes the romantic allure of these mountain retreats: Moonlight in Vermont.
Here in the northwest corner of New England are the roots of independence and stubborn insistence on freedom that made Vermont a republic well before it joined the newly uniting states. Here is also the beauty that inspired conservationists before there was such a word. And here is air clear enough that you want to drink it, space wide enough to reconsider your own life in fresh terms. Whether you come to Vermont for a weekend in a Buddhist retreat or a Sunday of Gregorian chants at a monastery, an evening in an Abenaki ceremony, or a walk along the riverbank, there is a potent refreshment ready for you. A high-speed swoop down a ski slope or a moment watching a deer may touch the very same chord.
Assuming that you are eager to explore the special nature of Vermont, to learn new things about this private corner of the northeast, to get out and do things and see things and sample the days and nights, this book is designed to launch your adventures. It provides the information you need to plan and enjoy your exploring, as well as the details of food and lodging that a tired and hungry wanderer appreciates at the end of the day.
No description of Vermont would be accurate without the savor of its regional cuisine, whether it be maple syrup boiled to a sticky delight and poured over plates of fresh white snow, or elegant dining accented by local specialties like fiddlehead greens, fresh brook trout, or mountain-grown blackberries. The name "cheddar" rings best with the word Vermont in front of it. And don’t forget pies: venison pie, or chicken pie, or apple and maple and lemon and cherry and even strawberry-rhubarb, home baked, all lined up on planks, ready to sample at an old-time community supper. Adventuring in Vermont will give you plenty of appetite for these foods, as well as for the subtle seasonings that a well-nourished soul requires. See Vermont Treats on page 14, which has descriptions and sources for some of the state’s best goodies.
Vermont is credited as the most rural state in the country, despite being barely three hours from Boston or Montreal, and just 4_ from New York City. There are about as many maple sugar makers as lawyers, and you’ll fin three one-room schoolhouses still in operation. Something about Vermont has always inspired independence, which may be why so many people feel that coming here is coming home to themselves at last.
The Native Americans who lived in this region were mostly Abenaki, a tribe of the Algonquin nation. These "People of the Dawn" left much of their language as a heritage in Vermont’s place names: Winooski means wild onion; Passumpsic is clear running water. Neshobe, who has both a river and a school named for him, was a chief. Today there are few native speakers of the Abenaki language, although ethnic pride is making a comeback, especially in the state’s northwestern corner. In summer there are several regional pow-wows where the old traditions are showcased, along with fine handcrafted jewelry and clothing.
The first European known to have explored the region was the French explorer Samuel de Champlain, in the summer of 1609. He entered from the north, the Quebec encampments along the St. Lawrence River, allying with the Algonquins in an expedition against their enemies to the west, the Iroquois. He arrived at the lake that now bears his name (and marks Vermont’s western boundary) on July 4th. His French tongue was the source of "Vermont," green mountain, and French is also still spoken in parts of the Northeast Kingdom and around Barre, where French Canadian settlers were drawn to farming and later to granite cutting. Several towns host festivals to celebrate the French Canadian heritage (and food!).
English settlements moved into the state from the south, starting with Fort Dummer near what is now Brattleboro, in 1724. The fort was a defensive outpost in the French and Indian Wars. When peace was made with the French in 1760, settlers from Connecticut and Massachusetts swiftly moved into the region, which was properly called the New Hampshire Grants at the time. Both New York and New Hampshire laid claim to the area. Resistance to those claims gave rise to a local militia, the Green Mountain Boys, led by Col. Ethan Allen in 1775. Their experience would later give them a significant role in the American Revolution at battles in Hubbardton and outside Bennington in 1777.
American though the land might seem, it was first an independent republic, declared at a meeting held in Westminster on January 17, 1777. The Republic of Vermont had its own mint and postal service, and stayed independent until 1791, when the state joined the union as the first "new" member since the original 13. Thomas Chittenden became Vermont’s first state governor.
Independence has stuck as a habit of mind. Maybe it’s in the water — the state is liberally endowed with rivers, streams, and lakes. Although the population now includes nearly as many "flatlanders" as it does those whose families broke the soil in past centuries, newcomers seem to quickly absorb the tendency to defend the woodlands and wetlands, keeping local government in a ferment over how and when to allow development, and how best to protect what people are still coming to savor: the land itself, whether wild or farmed or settled as villages and larger towns.
Slicing along the north-south axis of Vermont are the Green Mountains, and their imposing presence dominates travel time and conditions. The two interstates only add up to 320 miles. Interstate 91 is the north-south route, staying close to the Connecticut River, the eastern boundary of the state. About a third of the way up that highway, Interstate 89 swings west toward the Champlain Valley, with views of some of the most imposing mountains: Mansfield and Camel’s Hump, both over 4,000 feet high, and surrounded by peaks of around 3,600 feet. This is the only "easy" way to cut across the state in an east-west direction.
TIP: Any travel you do diagonally or from one side of the state to the other is much slower than you’d expect, because the roads are not multi-lane highways, and the terrain rises through mountain passes.
The scenery is spectacular, like the views from the skiers’ heaven of Lincoln Notch, the wilderness of Hazen’s Notch to the north, and the hundred-mile view as old Route 9 climbs up Hogback Mountain in the south.
This up-and-down geography makes Vermont seem much larger than its outline on the map. If you travel on Interstate 91, you can easily make it from the south end of the state to the Canadian border in three hours. But it will also take three hours to drive from St. Johnsbury to Rutland, diagonally, even though that’s less than half the "crow flying" distance on the map!
This book considers Vermont in terms of how you’ll get to the villages and countryside of each area, and what’s on hand to do there. Traveling by highway, most people enter the state in the southeast corner, near Brattleboro, so that area is known as the Southeastern Gateway. By most people’s standards, Brattleboro would be considered a small town, but for Vermont it’s close to being a city, full of arts events, a diverse college-oriented population, and dozens of tempting eateries. This is the hub of the region, and on the map you can easily visualize spokes of a quarter-wheel in the handful of highways spreading west and north. From Brattleboro, much as the British settlers did, the visitor can head up these roads that parallel the lesser rivers descending from the mountains to the ocean-bound Connecticut River. Small mountain towns like Jacksonville, Wilmington, Newfane, and Londonderry form a ring around Brattleboro. Within the same arc is the village of Grafton. It was a virtual ghost town until 1963, when a benefactor restored the feeling and prosperity of the 1830 sheep-farming community. In this working village, classic cheddar cheese is now made, sheep graze once more, and miles of hiking and skiing trails surround a gracious inn. Grafton captures the roots of the region in a single setting.
Bennington & The Vermont Valley
The less accessible southwestern corner is fenced off from Brattleboro by the high spine of the Green Mountains. But the winding rise of Route 9, once a soldiers’ route during the Revolution, carries cars up Hogback Mountain for a three-state view, then past Haystack Mountain, and into the wilds of the Green Mountain National Forest. A steady descent westward through the wilderness (the southern reaches of the 350,000 acres of national forest) ends up in Bennington’s Historic Region, where there is another chapter of American Revolutionary history laid out in the very walkable college town. This part of Vermont is less like a wheel and more a ladder, heading south to north along the history-rich and scenic Route 7. Some of the state’s finest fishing is found in the cold, clear rivers and streams of this region, especially along the Battenkill. Watch for canoes and kayaks on the roofs of passing vehicles. Small picturesque villages line Route 7 and make bicycling another popular way to explore. Country bed-and-breakfast homes and elegant inns dating back a century or more give a welcoming feeling to the region. Long before the interstates made American travel swift, "down-country" people discovered the beauty and vibrance of these mountain valleys; the 163-room Equinox Hotel in Manchester spreads its white-columned form against the imposing background of Mount Equinox itself, and dates back to 1769.
The Upper Connecticut River Valley
The central part of Vermont is again divided by the ridge of the Green Mountains. The eastern segment has the same characteristic as the Southeastern Gateway: all roads, like all rivers and streams, flow toward the blue ribbon of the Connecticut River and the accompanying travel routes of Interstate 91 and its older, slower shadow, Route 5. Major waterways are the three branches of the White River, and the Abenaki-tongued Ottauquechee and Ompompanoosuc. This is the Upper Connecticut River Valley. The towns and villages closest to the river valley offer pleasant biking and walking. As the land rises up to the west, so do the challenges. A hot-air balloon ride or small plane expedition can give you a soaring view.
President Calvin Coolidge, called "Silent Cal," but who was in fact an impressive orator, grew up in the mountains of the Upper Connecticut River Valley.
Central Vermont
The section of central Vermont to the west, simply called Central Vermont in this book, is the heart of the state. Here is the valley town of Middlebury, with its noted liberal-arts college, and the surrounding hills made famous by poet laureate Robert Frost. Rutland is in this section too, a city small enough that as soon as you feel you’ve had enough of buildings and businesses, you’re suddenly back in farmland. An amazing amount of this region is actually national forest, and numerous blazed trails lead to steep waterfalls, spectacular vistas, and cliffs where rare peregrine falcons nest and soar. The Appalachian Trail, an adventure in itself, veers eastward through these mountains on its way to Maine; Vermont’s own Long Trail, which extends the full north-south length of the state, continues to hug the crests of the ancient, rocky peaks. Some of the roads that cross from west to east are narrow mountain passes that close in winter; others are recent multi-lane routes that simply require careful driving on the snowiest days.
With snow in mind, the next region described here, the Capital District, Stowe, & North, includes some of Vermont’s tallest mountains: Mount Mansfield, reaching 4,393 feet, and Camel’s Hump at 4083. (Killington, another tall one at 4,135 feet, is farther south.) The best known towns here are Stowe, a ski resort, and Waterbury, home of Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream and other gastronomical delights, and also the capital, Montpelier, where residents have defended their stance as the only state capital without a McDonald’s restaurant. (The nearest McDonald’s is only five miles away, but there are no golden arches within view of the golden dome of the statehouse!) Hiking and skiing both take advantage of this mountainous region, but so do back-road biking, mountain biking (even in winter!), and photographing the striking scenery. Once an area hard to reach, this stretch of "big hills" is now easily entered from Interstate 89, connecting travelers with the thriving city of Burlington to the northwest and the river-valley railroad town of White River Junction to the southeast. Other roads here are slow to travel, even if the map marks them as being major highways, like Route 108 or the scenic Route 100. Two lanes — one for coming, one for going — encourage drivers to take their time and savor the views.
The Lake Champlain Valley
A very different landscape spreads itself to the northwest, along the flat valley of Lake Champlain. Dairy farms thrive even at the edge of Burlington, Vermont’s most lively city. Life has a coastal flavor, enlivened by frequent celebrations and festivals. Marinas and ferry launches line the lake edge. Even from the farms there are invigorating views of the long lake and the dramatic New York state mountains beyond. This is the Lake Champlain Valley, and although it is Vermont’s most heavily populated area (Burlington has nearly 40,000 people, more than double its nearest competitor, Rutland), residential areas seem to bunch in clusters. The rural atmosphere is rarely more than five miles away at any moment. Perhaps this intense contrast feeds the musical and creative side: Burlington is famous for its jazz, and the towns farther north are home to many of the best traditional fiddlers, often French-Canadians spinning out reels for well-attended dances. Another intriguing aspect of the Champlain Valley is the cluster of large sandy islands at the north end of the lake. These are Native American traditional grounds, and they also sheltered rum-runners during Prohibition, much as the towns on the shore were once shelters for runaway slaves at last discovering freedom during the 1800s. The Underground Railway, the chain of homes and supporters that enabled these desperate men, women, and families to reach the safety of Canada during the Civil War, also befriended many arriving travelers and ended up helping them settle into a quiet northern farming and fishing existence without having to leave the United States. There are five state parks in the region now, including secluded island campsites so well protected that you can get there only by boat and with prior reservations. Wildlife sanctuaries also hug the shoreline, havens for flocks of migrating waterfowl.
The Northeast Kingdom
Everyone describes the Northeast Kingdom last of Vermont’s regions, as it has always been the hardest to reach, the most isolated, and the most stubborn at resisting change. It is no longer hard to reach; Interstate 91 bisects it, a neat north-south passage connecting to the back roads that lead to quiet locations such as Coventry, Charleston, and Brownington. The region’s resistance to change isn’t complete; there have been plenty of changes, and comfortable lodging, boat and bike rentals, and guided tours abound. Skiers and fishermen enjoy different aspects of the mountains and valleys. But the outstanding effect of its isolation and steadiness is that the wild places in the Northeast Kingdom are preserved. Moose, wild turkeys, and rainbow trout abound; eagles and hawks soar on sunny days. The air is so crisp and clear that it makes you feel your own wings rustle in your chest, waking up urges as potent as the pulse of maple sap in a spring tree trunk. Artists, writers, actors, and people with scraps of poetry in their souls are drawn here, whether to put their strong feelings into words or paintings, or to simply savor the sensations of walking, canoeing, or touring along the winding roads and waterways.
The contrast of four distinct seasons means there is plenty of variety in Vermont’s climate. Although sunny summer days may reach 90° for a few hours, the 70s are more common; summer evenings cool off to the 50s, and an occasional night in the 40s or even 30s does happen. Spring and fall each have rainy days and sharp winds — exhilarating but also chilly if you don’t prepare for the changes. Expect heavy morning dew even in the summer. A spring or glorious autumn day may include a 40° drop in temperature between noon and evening.
Windproof outer clothing and plenty of layers are the secrets of comfort, along with sturdy walking shoes that can take you over damp or wet ground.
Winter temperatures in Vermont average in the 20s, but nights get colder, dropping below zero for a few weeks each year, most likely at the end of January and in February.
Learn from the residents: listen to local weather forecasts in the evening as you plan your next day’s excursion. Pay serious attention if the forecast includes a winter storm watch or warning. Savor the exhilaration of the weather, but do it safely.
Two seasons especially affect road conditions: early spring is known as "mud season," for its glutinous effects on the many unpaved roads. An ounce of caution will save many pounds of stuck-in-the-mud vehicles! And obviously, winter driving is a skill much in demand. For the most part, good planning simply means having plenty of warm clothes with you in your vehicle (or backpack if you’re on foot or skis), and when driving winter roads, carrying a shovel in the trunk is always a good idea. See winter driving tips on the following page.
Weather has tremendous importance as you explore and seek adventures in this rural state. Local residents follow detailed weather forecasts, which are found on most radio and television stations, as well as in the regional newspapers. If in doubt, get a highway update by calling 800-ICYROADS. Vermont has some of the best-prepared and hardest-working state road crews, and there are usually only a few days each year when travel by either road or air is restricted while the crews plow, sand, and salt the surfaces. The contrast of daily weather adds spice to most visits, and encourages snuggling into sweaters, walking briskly to feel your own energy, and sitting peacefully at the side of a toasty woodstove or crackling fire with friends or good books and the warming beverage and tasty meal of your choice.
DRIVING IN SEVERE WINTER WEATHER
These precautions apply mainly to those who are determined to drive in the most difficult winter weather. Actually, Vermont road crews, local and state, take great pride in making sure that ordinary caution and a small decrease in speed will let you travel the winter roads safely and with pleasure. But if you are determined to sample the adrenaline of travel in stormy winter weather, or have chosen to spend time well beyond the reach of plowed roads, here’s a quick review of the main points.
If you have a choice, get snow tires rather than all-season; it makes a difference if you’re doing a lot of snow driving.
Always add a gas-line "drying" fluid to your tank if the night temperature is going below zero.
Go slowly. Many difficult road conditions can still be managed if you slow down enough.
Listen to the weather forecast, the local news and the people at the general stores. If the state police have closed the road or are recommending that people stay home, take it seriously; going off the road on ice makes a trip take much longer and pushes the stress level up to where it’s just not fun anymore.
If you’re going to drive in snow for more than a week or so, put a shovel in the trunk and carry a bag of cat litter; these two simple things will get you out of most common problems. (The cat litter goes on the ground to give your tires traction.)
The only season when insects are pesky in Vermont is late May to early June, called "black fly season" after the tiny biting gnats that hatch in wetland areas at that time. Regular bug spray works well as a defense; some of the most rugged outdoor workers swear by the benefits of Avon’s Skin-So-Soft, a fragrant body oil. Windy days also disperse the insects. Although tick bites leading to Lyme disease are rare in Vermont, it is a good idea to wear socks and long trousers when walking through high grass, as in uncut pastures.
Long known as the state’s most scenic highway, Route 100 is the traditional north-south foliage touring road. Despite its official-sounding title, the road is mostly a two-lane country journey, passing through small villages and winding alongside riverbeds.
A Fall Foliage Hotline operates in fall, beginning September 1, advising travelers about the most colorful displays. 802-828-3239.
The peak weeks of foliage viewing — the last half of September and the first week of October — bring thousands of travelers to the state. And no wonder! The scarlet and gold of the sugar maples flames against the dark backdrop of spruce woods, with birches and poplars delicately outlined in their own softer golden fluttering. So try the back roads, especially the mountain passes. In the south of the state this means Route 9 over the high ridge of Hogback Mountain, Route 100 north into the Dorset villages, and driving toward the scenic reservoirs, Harriman and Somerset.
FOLIAGE TOURS BY TRAIN
The Green Mountain Flyer is Vermont’s famous scenic railroad run, with twice-daily trips through summer and fall from Bellows Falls to Chester and back. Round-trip fares are quite low (adults $11, children $7) for this classic treat, and fall foliage season is a perfect time to enjoy it. The railroad adds sunset trips on the first two weekends of October. For information, contact Green Mountain Railroad Corp., PO Box 498, 54 Depot Street, Bellows Falls, VT 05101; 463-3069 or 800-707-3530; Web site www.rails-vt.com. Other routes provided by Green Mountain include the Champlain Valley Weekender, from Burlington through Shelburne and Middlebury to Vergennes in the summer (ask about possible autumn trips), and the Manchester to Arlington trip on the Vermont Valley Flyer, which gets extended in the fall to North Bennington (closed Tuesdays). Rail cars date from the 1940s and 1950s on the Vermont Valley Flyer (and are air conditioned); the Green Mountain Flyer cars go back to the 1930s and are pulled by a vintage diesel. Pack a picnic with you, or plan to eat at the other end of the route.
From Arlington, don’t miss the Kelley Stand Road, which heads east into the Green Mountain National Forest. Take any of the forest roads leading north and south from the Kelley Stand Road for a glimpse of the wilderness.
Southeastern Gateway
Ski areas offer a special way to savor the foliage; ride an aerial tram or other chairlift to the summit for a breathtaking vista. Stratton Mountain Resort in Bondville expects plenty of foliage visitors; so does Mount Snow.
Central Vermont
In the central part of the state, head for the mountain passes at Mount Horrid (Route 73), Bread Loaf (Route 125), and Lincoln (Route 17). You are in Robert Frost country here; all the back roads above Middlebury, leading away from Ripton, include bridges and mountain slopes. A stop at the Robert Frost Wayside on Route 125 will remind you of how the poet saw and celebrated the region. A little farther north, take the Mountain Road between Stowe and Smuggler’s Notch for a challenge, with its steep stretches and sharp turns.
Capital District
One of the loveliest long drives for foliage viewing is to head north from the Stowe area along Route 100 to Lowell, where you can drive through Hazen’s Notch on Route 58. From Montgomery, enjoy Route 118 and then Route 109 for the covered bridges and wild country along the way back to Route 15, which carries you east along the river to Route 100 again.
Northeast Kingdom
The most remote part of the state is Essex County, between Interstate 91 and the New Hampshire border in the far north. Find your way to East Burke, where you can take the old "Toll Road" up Burke Mountain and climb the fire tower for incredible views. Return to the center of East Burke and follow Route 114 north another two miles to the right turn marked Gallup Mills; this gently rising drive will carry you through woods where the deer and moose far outnumber the people. It is about 20 miles to Guildhall, where you can either turn north and drive clear to Canada before heading home again, or head south along the Connecticut River on Route 102 and then Route 2.
Photographers won’t want to miss the traditional villages of Peacham, West Barnet, and Waterford, where many an isolated flaming maple in front of a white-clapboarded home says "New England" most clearly. In southern Vermont, satisfy the urge for picturesque villages in Grafton or Chester, and don’t miss Newfane, on Route 30 less than half an hour’s drive from Brattleboro. These are lovely villages year-round, but the brief spectacle of the changing leaves is part of what Vermonters hold in their hearts to carry them through the long winters ahead.
RECOMMENDED FOLIAGE TOUR
If you have time for only one short foliage trip, make it along Darling Hill north of Lyndonville in the Northeast Kingdom. From the center of town head north and connect with Route 114, as if you were going to East Burke — but instead, a mile north of Lyndonville, just north of the intersection with Route 5, find the left turn clearly marked Darling Hill (and also marked for the Wildflower Inn
). Another two miles brings you to the imposing roadside rows of cutleaf maples towering over the fields; the vista to the northwest into Willoughby Gap is especially lovely at sunset, when the fields and the protectively arching trees take on the most tender colors. A walk in the gardens at the Wildflower Inn
will add one last drop of pleasure to this elegant drive before you return to Lyndonville, either backtracking along the road you’ve taken, or continuing north on the Darling Hill Road to the first right (another mile), which descends into the village of East Burke.
Cheddar cheese and Vermont are practically synonyms in New England, and Cabot Creamery has taken its blue-ribbon cheeses around the world. But there are many varieties of cheese made from the milk of the mountainside farms, and some of the cheesemakers are still tiny independent home businesses. Tours are often available. Here are a few to start with.
Brattleboro: K.C.’s Kritters, call for directions, 257-4595. Kevin Kingsley offers tours of his small goat cheese operation, where he makes four types of fresh cheese in whole-milk and low-fat varieties.
Cabot: Cabot Creamery, Route 215, 563-2231. There are tours here throughout the year, and in summer and fall they are offered several times a day. The creamery also has a small theater to show films explaining the cheesemaking process, but most interesting is watching through glass panels as the cheese curd is prepared and cut. In addition to cheddars, Cabot makes Monterey Jack and reduced fat cheeses, plus yogurt.
Grafton: Grafton Village Cheese, in the center of the village behind the inn, 472-3866. The cheddars from this modest cheesemaker are favorites among those who like their cheeses rich and tangy. There’s an outdoor picnic area in which to savor your purchases.
Hardwick: Kingsey Cheese of Vermont, Routes 14 and 15, 472-5763. This is the least romantic of the local cheesemakers, set in a practical factory, but the cheeses make it worth a visit, with Vermont Swiss, Monterey Jack, garlic and parsley, jalapeño, and more. Be sure to try the cheese twists, a favorite.
Healdville: Crowley Cheese, Healdville Road (off Route 103), 259-2340. This is the oldest New England cheesemaker, working from a modest house at the side of Okemo Mountain. The sharp cheddars are especially flavorful, and the cheese kitchen is so small you’re almost part of the process. Smoked and herbed cheeses add to the variety.
Milton: Willow Hill Farm, 313 Hardscrabble Road, 893-2963. Here are the certified organic raw milk aged sheep cheeses that are so hard to find. Tours should be arranged by calling ahead.
Plymouth: Plymouth Cheese Corp., at the Plymouth Notch Historic District off Route 100A, 672-3650. Tours are given in summer and fall. Watching the old-fashioned "granular curd" cheese being made takes you back into the days of Calvin Coolidge, who grew up nearby.
Putney: Vermont Shepherd, 915 Patch Road, 387-4473. Cynthia Major offers tours of the Shepherd cheesemaking operation. Prepare to taste with delight.
Shelburne: Shelburne Farms, 1611 Harbor Road, 985-8688. This large working dairy farm on Lake Champlain offers premium farmhouse aged cheddar cheeses.
Warren: Three Shepherds of the Mad River Valley, call for directions, 496-3998. Larry and Linda Faillace offer tours of their sheep’s milk cheesemaking. Save time to tour the surrounding back roads for grand vistas.
Websterville: Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, call for directions and hours, 479-9371. A must for gourmands: creme fraiche, fromage blanc, quark, mascarpone, basil torta, salmon torta, and five goat’s-milk cheeses.
When Madeleine Kunin was governor of Vermont, she often compared the state to her native country of Switzerland. She was talking about the mountains and dairy farms, but today she might also have fine chocolate in mind. There are more than 20 chocolatiers in the Green Mountain State, and many of them display their kitchens with tours and tastings. Here are some of these sweet places:
Brattleboro: Tom & Sally’s Homemade Chocolates, 6 Harmony Place, 254-4200 or 800-827-0800. Tom and Sally Fegley offer tours and a chance to see how their famous cow pie candy bars are made. There are also gourmet treats with French and Belgian chocolate, and novelties like chocolate body paint.
North Brattleboro: Chocolate and Gifts Express International, North Putney Road, 800-432-3834 or 800-443-8706. Johanna Godfrey uses old family recipes with real butter and cream for her homemade fudge. Tours are offered.
Burlington: Champlain Chocolate Company, 431 Pine Street, 800-634-8105. James Lampman calls his delicacies the original chocolates of Vermont. See how the American truffles and the wonderfully rich and sculpted Lake Champlain Chocolates are made, and enjoy a discount on factory seconds.
Jacksonville: Coombs Maple Products, Maple Lane, 800-338-1849 and in Vermont 800-464-7305. Arnold Coombs offers tours to show how he makes pure maple candy hand-dipped in imported chocolate, as well as the maple caramel, nut, and chocolate chewies.
Manchester Center: Mother Myrick’s Confections, Route 7A (half a mile south of the center of town), 362-1560. Ron Mancini’s hand-dipped chocolates, buttercrunch, truffles, and fudges are hot competitors at the annual Taste of Vermont competition. As well as tours, there’s a café on the premises serving cakes, pastries, and ice cream sundaes.
Shaftsbury: Vermont Confectionery, call for directions, 800-545-9243. Bruce Wamsley’s viewing room reveals some of the secrets of 20 varieties of truffles and more than 200 seasonal novelty chocolates.
Waterbury Center: Green Mountain Chocolate Co., Route 100 (north of Interstate 89), 244-8356. Be sure to visit the dipping room to see the hand-crafted chocolates and truffles made, and sample the maple candies and fudge.
Wells River: Bread & Chocolate Ltd., 1 Cross Street, 757-2088 or 800-524-6715. Tours take you inside Jonathan M. Rutstein’s processes of making Belgian chocolate dessert sauces, flavored cocoas, and white chocolate drink mixes.
Vermont maple syrup comes in several "grades," which are really descriptions of the color and intensity of flavor. All are delicious, and are made in the same way, by boiling down the sap from maple trees in early spring. Color and flavor are determined by tiny differences in the sap-gathering and heating, and by the effects of weather on the trees. Most sugarmakers will produce and market several grades each year.
Most elegant is the Vermont Fancy grade, with its pale amber color, mild maple flavor, and delicate fragrance. Grade A Medium Amber is just a bit darker in color and has a more pronounced "bouquet."
Popular among those who like a full flavor is the Grade A Dark Amber, which is more robust. Many local folks prefer Grade B, though, the strongest and darkest of the table grades; its rich flavor makes it the best for baking, too.
Maple candies and maple cream are made by boiling the sap down even further, and beating it as it begins to crystallize, then letting the product set until cool. Nearly every village has a well-known cook who prepares maple fudge, buttery and rich, often with walnuts added.
Can you drink the plain maple sap as it comes out of the tree Sure. But don’t expect it to taste like candy. It’s barely sweet, a fresh cool drink of spring on the way. It takes about 40 gallons of sap to boil down into one gallon of the familiar maple syrup.
TIP: If you’re in Vermont during sugaring season, watch for the community gatherings called Sugar on Snow parties, where the hot syrup is boiled until it’s nearly candy, then poured over a mound of fresh white snow and eaten by twirling the cooled taffy-like threads with a fork, with bites on the side of raised doughnuts or even sour pickles for contrast.
The northern border of Vermont is an international one, allowing simple, no-fuss crossings into Canada. In Derby Line you can walk across the bridge and be on foreign soil.
But the border is taken very seriously, with smuggling an international concern. When you prepare to cross it, watch for signs that tell you which Customs office to visit when, and don’t joke with the Customs agents; their lack of sense of humor is notorious. Sailing on Lake Memphremagog is also likely to take you across the border; watch for the shoreline Customs offices. There are several ways the two countries monitor crossings, so if you haven’t stopped en route, be sure your first stop when you dock is with the Customs folks, within the first few minutes.
If you’re an American citizen, you can cross the border easily with your driver’s license for identification. But it’s a good idea to have a passport or birth certificate as proof of citizenship (which a license doesn’t prove), as some entry points are more particular, and airports are especially so.
TIP: Be sure to notify your car insurance carrier that you’re going into Canada, so that you’ll have coverage during your visit. It’s a good idea to carry a statement from your agent verifying Canadian coverage.
Regulations prohibit bringing plants, fruits, and vegetables back into the United States; there is also a modest Customs tariff if you’ve purchased more than a minimal amount of consumer goods in Canada. Alcoholic beverages must be declared as you cross. Traveling north into Canada, the big concern is firearms. If you have good reason to transport them, such as for a gun show or a hunting trip, call the Customs office in St. Albans ahead of time for specific regulations, which change from year to year ( 524-6527).
Pets traveling with you should have proof of vaccinations for rabies and be in good health.
For the pleasure of crossing the border without any visit to Customs required, visit the Haskell Free Library and Opera House in Derby Line, north of Newport. This lovely little showpiece straddles the border and has a thick black stripe painted on the floor to show you where it is! Read a book with your feet in one country and your pages in the other. In the opera house the stage is in Canada and most of the seats are in Vermont.
As outlined on page 6, this book divides Vermont into seven regions. Each chapter starts with a general introduction to the region, which covers the layout of the major roadways and connections among villages, as well as history, celebrations, main sites and activities. The sections on Touring present smaller areas, in clusters of villages and activities, as well as general highlights of each major town. Contact numbers to help you plan a trip are found here too, as well as special resources like the state parks and transportation options.
Once you’re familiar with the general touring outline, dip into the sections that follow: specific adventures for each location. There are opportunities for independent explorers, as well as for linking up with knowledgeable guides, whether for wildlife, canoe routes, or mountain slopes, summer or winter. Your adventures can be as vigorous and challenging or as simple and harmonious as you like. For example, a visit to Lake Willoughby in the Northeast Kingdom could include fishing, exploring the shorelines, climbing the cliffs of Mount Pisgah or Mount Hor, or exploring the well-worn trails of Wheeler Mountain. On the other hand, photographing the glacial lake and then sampling the nearby Evansville Trading Post, especially at Abenaki powwow time, or the somber history of the Old Stone House in Brownington, may not require more exercise than a relaxing drive along the back roads.
Suggestions for accommodations and dining wrap up each section, along with useful local phone numbers and, when available, e-mail addresses.
The following briefly describes the kinds of activities explored under each of the Adventure categories.
You could be looking for an easy scenic stroll to calm your pulse, or a strenuous challenge. Vermont’s up-and-down landscape will probably offer you both choices within a five-mile radius. This category will let you know where to go and how to prepare for it: by packing sunscreen and a comfy pair of sneakers, or toting field glasses and a bird book to tell the hawks apart, or gearing up for changeable weather on a mountain peak. There are hundreds of miles of trails in Vermont, and countless back roads that can be nearly as unpopulated. Those villages richest in historical architecture and events also offer self-guided walking tours.
Best of all, though, is the walking and hiking tradition that has grown up here. It might be stretching it some to call the Revolutionary War soldiers "the first Vermont hikers," but they left sturdy paths across the mountains, such as the Bayley-Hazen Road and the Molly Stark Trail. In 1910, the Green Mountain Club brought 23 members together to "make the Vermont mountains play a larger part in the life of the people." Since then, club members have become the hard-working angels of the trail systems, by mapping, clearing, and preserving. The Civilian Conservation Corps used to craft careful approaches to the mountain peaks with stone steps along the steepest stretches. Now the Youth Conservation Corps follows up on that effort. Clearly blazed trails and even small neat markers with trail names and destinations are found even in remote back woods.
GUIDE SERVICES: An abundance of guide services and outdoor classes will smoothly acquaint you with, say, the best fishing holes on the Battenkill, or the call of a hermit thrush. And with so many spectacular mountains here, area rock climbing supply firms and guide services have years of experience from which to draw.
Two prominent trails draw long-distance hikers: the Appalachian Trail, which cuts across the southern mountains of the state on its way to Maine, and the Long Trail, a Green Mountain Club creation following the length of the Green Mountains from the Massachusetts border north to Canada. You can get an idea of how "up and down" this wilderness ridgeline trail is by noting that Interstate 91 takes only 185 miles to go from border to border — the Long Trail takes 265! Side trails and approach trails add up to another 175 miles. About 70 simple overnight shelters and primitive tent camping areas provide convenience for the long-distance walker.
A number of the hikes in this book are short and simple: half-hour approaches to waterfalls or blazingly blue lakes, or soothing rambles along country lanes. Most are mid-range efforts, taking half a day and drawing you up worthwhile climbs that reward with wildlife sightings and stunning views. Lightweight hiking shoes with some ankle support are nice for these, but sturdy walking shoes will also carry you on most day-trips. Do plan on running into patches of mud or wet ground here and there; all those streams and rivers leak now and then, and rain isn’t quick to evaporate either!
The Green Mountain Club offers a pocket-size guide to the trails in best condition, Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont (see Information Sources on page 26). The 200-plus trails in the book are loosely categorized as the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail (serious effort required for hiking this part); other hiking trails; multi-use trails, which in winter are meant for snowmobiles but, when snow-free, are open to hikers; nature trails; a handful of fire-tower trails; and the rapidly growing category of ski-touring trails.
Bring along some drinking water when you hike; the nuisance parasite Giardia infests many streams and lakes, especially if beavers are in the area, and the color and clarity of the water are not real indicators of safety.
If you’re a dedicated rock climber, Vermont is probably not tops on your list of places to travel. Rock formations are weathered and loose, and the best places to climb tend to be on private land with limited access. Rock climbers keep tight-lipped about favorite spots for fear of overloading the already nervous landowners. However, climbing supplies are sold here for trips to the Adirondacks just across Lake Champlain, and to the White Mountains of New Hampshire. This book quietly and discreetly mentions a few places to climb... Sshhh!
Preserving the Trails
Now that hikers and climbers can reach any part of Vermont, even the peaks of the mountains, a sense of courtesy to the land and its residents has become critical. Several regions above the tree line include precious stands of rare alpine plants that may not look so special at first glance. They also grow tiny, wind-dwarfed trees, where a foot of growth could result from a hundred years of stubborn roots mining nutrients out of the rock and dust. Areas of special concern at this time are the peaks of Mt. Mansfield and Camel’s Hump, where 40,000 visitors a year are "loving them to death." The same thing is happening to Mt. Abraham. Please stay on the trails when you are above the tree line, always. Save exploring for the lower, more richly endowed areas.
One more brief concern: Fires are generally not encouraged in the woods, except in designated camping areas. Check for details in each region and for each trail. If you visit Skylight Pond in Central Vermont, you can see firsthand one of the big reasons: continued cutting of trees and shrubs for firewood has made the tender land barren, so its caretakers are outlining protection and restricting the number of campers each night. Silver Lake, also in Central Vermont, has similar problems. The Green Mountain Club, along with state and national park rangers, urges campers to say in the abundant wooden shelters in order to minimize the human impact on the wilderness, or else use designated tenting areas. Your gift of concern and caretaking is a legacy for generations to come. You are also helping to protect rare species of plants and animals from extinction. The successful return of the peregrine falcon to Vermont’s crags and cliffs shows what a difference concerned people can make.
A NOTE ABOUT HUNTING
Hunting is a specialized outdoor activity, demanding specific skills and a respect for the land and its inhabitants. Vermont regulates hunting closely in terms of seasons and methods of taking game. Hunting bear, deer, and wild birds takes up much of the autumn and some of the winter. There are other trapping and hunting seasons also. Please obtain state materials if you’re interested in hunting (available at most general stores and sports stores, or contact the Vermont Fish & Wildlife Dept., 103 South Main Street, Waterbury, VT 05676; 241-3700). Many outfitters and guides provide hunting services; they are readily available, so this book does not list them.
One brief caution does apply to nonhunters, however. If you are walking in the woods in the firearm deer season — generally the last half of November — wear light, bright clothing, preferably the "blaze orange" caps and vests offered in most general stores and sports stores. Deer season attracts many newcomers and inexperienced hunters who may mistake your presence for that of the animal they’ve waited so long to see. Better yet, stay out of the woods entirely during deer season. You will be doing a kindness to yourself, to the hunters, and to the animals, who need no extra disturbance at this time.
You know how to throw yourself into a hike with enthusiasm, how to look over the hillside or the trail across the fields and feel the challenge and freshness of it. Your feet itch to move forward and your legs already anticipate the steady swing of a good stride. But have you ever considered taking a gentler, less demanding approach Slowing down enough to savor the sunlight on the trees, the scent of the forest floor, the gentle movement of falling leaves Sure, I know. You might never "get there" at a quieter pace. And with a full pack containing water bottle, granola, sandwiches, and spare shoes, you don’t want to slow down enough to feel the weight pulling at you!
Here’s where trekking with llamas comes in. These gentle, mild hiking companions can easily carry a load of some 75 pounds, provided it’s expertly arranged, and still keep pace with you along a hillside. They’re not for carrying humans; they’re for carrying the incidentals that make a trip pleasant. In fact, many llama trekking expeditions include a gourmet meal, complete with tablecloth, dishes, and sometimes even the table. And the steady stamina of the llama inspires its fellow walkers to keep a similar pace.
Horses, on the other hand, are not a traditional Vermont pack animal in this century. The days of riding to church or to market are long gone. But horses still pull sleighs through the snow and haywagons down back roads. You can also seek out lessons, as well as trail rides and challenging athletic events on horseback. If you bring your own mount, there is at least one inn that still maintains stable space for you. Expect to see fine horseflesh in many parts of the state. The Morgan horse is a Vermont treasure, sturdy and powerful, and some horse lovers breed and show the Morgans in turn-of-the century elegance.
Amtrak’s Vermonter route, recently re-established, has proved so popular that reservations are suggested in advance. The train also provides great traveling room for bicycles, making it possible for you to tour by walking your bike into the train and walking out again in a new town or region. The Sugarbush route connects Burlington with Middlebury for at least half of the year, and winter routes may expand over time. Train service from Burlington to Rutland is also available. In winter, skis are welcome cargo too.
The Vermonter train recently announced more welcome news to bikers: from April 1 to October 1 you can roll your wheels into a special bike baggage car, rather than having to box them up. Reservations are required for each passenger and each bike ( 800-USA-RAIL). The bike fee is nominal. Boxed bikes are accepted as baggage year-round at those stations that are staffed.
You don’t need a four-wheel-drive jeep to travel in Vermont, not even on the back roads. There are still plenty of dairy farms in the hills, and each small town prides itself on having a road crew that makes sure tank trucks can reach those farms to collect the milk at least once a day. Schoolbuses also demand good roads, and travelers get the benefits! If you plan to tour by car or truck in the winter, though, do look over the tips on Driving in Severe Winter Weather on page 10 to refresh your memory with (or get acquainted with) some of the standard precautions. With the exception of a half-dozen mountain passes, Vermont is open to cars year-round.
Mountain biking has become a sport that hotels and bed-and-breakfast homes encourage, to make the most of the terrain and already existing trails. These can be hiking trails or the fine snow trails maintained by the Vermont Association of Snow Travelers for snowmobiles to use in the winter months and all comers during the rest of the year. Where trails cross private land, please do stop and ask permission to use them; this courtesy goes a long way toward encouraging landowners to keep their land open, not posted. The high-tech, multi-speed bikes with their rugged tires are a perfect fit for even the less active rider, easing the way your legs pump along the rising terrain. And for those who appreciate the unusual, mountain biking on snow is increasingly popular, with local bike shops stocking studded tires and those equipped with chains for traction.
Back road biking offers a wider range of challenges. Visitors devoted to just relaxing can enjoy pedaling along tree-lined byways, gazing at old country homes, surprising a grazing deer in a nearby pasture, or even meeting one around the corner of a dirt road. Many villages offer bike loops, and larger towns often have bicycle trails, like the well-kept one along the Burlington waterfront. There are also guided bicycle tours for families, groups, or individuals, where your host not only helps if you get a flat, but fills you in on the history or wildlife of the region, and eventually fills you up with a good meal, either brought along or waiting for you at a relaxing country inn.
This book mentions most of the specific bike trails and some especially scenic routes to take among the villages. For more suggestions, plenty of cycling lovers have listed their favorite routes in 25 Bicycle Tours in Vermont (see Information Sources, page 31). The book has been recently updated, and gives detailed directions, whether you are a "caterpillar" to whom each hill looks like a mountain, or a "butterfly" ready to float over the peaks. Northern Cartographic also includes good routes in its Vermont Road Atlas and Guide. Another great source is the Vermont Life Bicycle Vermont Map & Guide. The state has been a welcoming host for cyclists for years, but now the sport is supported by specialty shops, which are rarely more than 15 miles apart.
Naturally, you’ll want a helmet for bicycling. This is especially important, because even a small hill can get your wheels spinning fast enough to carry you into a tree trunk and cause some real damage, if a stone in the road happens to send you off course. The other common sense reminders also apply: dress for the changes in weather, especially temperature; wear bright colors; carry water with you; and hug the right side of the road.
Finally, only the Lake Champlain Islands are going to give you reliably flat cycling. Look to the hills not only for challenges, but for scenic views, for fresh perspectives, and for discoveries about yourself.
Several regions of Vermont are downright crowded with lakes, from the 10-mile-wide stretches of Lake Champlain to the deep glacial gouge of Willoughby, where the cliffs rise high above the dark water and there are rumors of a deep underground channel to the more northern waters. Streams run everywhere; wetlands abound. Rivers are swift until midsummer, and water releases from power and flood control dams add extra spice to riding the action.
Loosely speaking, Vermont waters are divided into flat water (lakes) and rivers. Canoes and kayaks can take you into real wilderness, and the awkward stance of a blue heron can surprise you at the corner of many a lake. You can come so close to a loon that you’ll see the blank glitter of its beady black eyes (although if it’s nesting season, please stay farther back). On Memphremagog or Willoughby, Bomoseen or Fairlee, Morey or Dunmore, there are wide spaces for sailing, motoring and, of course, board sailing, that intensely personal interaction with wind and water.
The Appalachian Mountain Club puts out a River Guide (see Information Sources on page 33) to both Vermont and New Hampshire in a single volume, a good notion since the Connecticut River is shared by the two states. Local boating newspapers like Burlington’s Harbor Watch give tips and updates. State and national parks generally have boats available, and facilities may range from heavy launches that ferry campers to isolated islands, to trim fishing boats on Seyon Pond, where the only allowed activity is fly-fishing (and it’s great!). Increasing numbers of paddlewheelers are found on the large lakes and even on the southern reaches of the Connecticut River, and allow guests to get away from shore without effort. The Burlington area offers several touring boat services that dabble in fishing, sightseeing, or dining and dancing with a stunning view of the fabled Lake Champlain sunsets (sometimes called the world’s second finest!).
BOATERS TAKE NOTE: the state is desperately trying to contain the spread of zebra mussels, a non-native pest that fouls boats, boat engines, and beaches, clogs water intake pipes, and alters native ecology. Before you move a boat from one water body to the next, remove and place in the trash all plant material and attached mussels; drain all water from the boat, engine, and other equipment; and rinse the boat and gear with tap water, preferably hot, or leave the boat out in the sun for two days.
Fishing is a big part of lakeshore life, as can be seen in the general stores closest to boat accesses. Often a special refrigerator is set aside for neat stacks of capped containers, each labeled "worms"! In winter, live bait means minnows, and some shops have their own tanks where you can scoop out a netful. Fly-fishing is a separate art; watch for the occasional roadside sign of a fly-tying pro.
FISHING LICENSES: If you’re 15 or older, you need a license to fish in Vermont; it’s not expensive (from $7 to $35 for nonresidents), and the money goes to the excellent cause of taking care of the lakes, rivers, and streams. Licenses are available at many general stores, as well as outdoor specialty shops and town offices. Only landowners have the privilege of fishing their own lands without licenses.
The old Vermont saying is, "We’ve got 10 months of winter and two months of poor sledding." It’s not really true: only the most northern mountains suffer the problems of snow in June or August! But the reliability of long, cold winters brings skiers, both downhill (alpine) and cross-country (Nordic), as early as mid-October to the resorts where snow is encouraged by spray rigs. Spring skiing in April is a treat on the last peaks to thaw out.
Good snowcover made by nature settles in a bit later in the season. By Thanksgiving there’s usually a coating of white, and Christmas, New Year’s, and the months of January and February are downhill skiing delights.
Cross-country skiers, who can enjoy the sport with even a few inches of cover, make the most of the long frozen season. After the cloudy days of November and early December, the sky opens out blazingly blue, and sun on the snow and ice recreates a world of glory. The prints of wild animals track across every field and along each woods trail; signs of foxes and squirrels are everywhere, and deer hoofprints line the back roads. Ruffed grouse, known locally as partridges, burst out of snowy sanctuary and explode in sound; crows, bluejays, and chickadees chatter. If you’re lucky, you’ll see a snowy owl perched on a fencepost, or the swift, supple slide of an otter diving over a snowbank toward the partly open water of a cold stream.
Many of the country inns and bed-and-breakfast homes and farms realize how entrancing the countryside is to Nordic skiers, and have made an effort to establish their own trail networks. Some have been laid out by Olympic ski coaches and athletes; others follow traditional paths through evergreen stands, around thick-trunked maple trees, and across open pastures where the wind sculpts the thick snow into drifts and sweeps.
Taking advantage of all these trail networks, as well as snowmobile trails, old logging roads, and public trails, the 280-mile Catamount Trail gives Nordic skiers a chance to glide pretty much the length of the state. Accessible to those of all abilities, the trail, which is relatively new, is open for skiing along about 90 of its route from the Massachusetts border to near Readsboro, Vermont, to the last stretch north of Jay Peak to reach the Canada line. Where the trail system enters a privately owned ski center, you may be asked to pay a trail fee; a membership in the Catamount Trail Association (PO Box 1235, Burlington, VT 05402; 864-5794) can give you discounts or even a chance to pass through for free. You don’t have to ski the whole trail to feel good about this winter corridor: The Catamount Trail Guidebook (see Information Sources, page 33) breaks down the course into 26 single-day tours. If you choose to spend more time, wonderful country inns lie close to the route and you can more or less ski from one to the next.
Other snow sports include snowboarding, usually done at the downhill ski slopes, snowmobiling (there are guided tours, as well as rentals), and the ice specialties of skating and fishing (done through a hole in lake ice, which may be a foot or more thick). There are several outfitters who teach the far-northern art of dogsledding, as well as host dogsledding competitions. On Lake Champlain, ice boats reach high speeds, propelled by wild winds. And in the mountains, rock climbers delight in the strenuous challenges of ice climbing, which is also taught in groups by some of the year-round adventure specialists.
The listings for each region give the established downhill ski slopes and the classic cross-country trail networks. Back roads, especially the ones known as "logging roads" where no wheeled traffic enters in winter, can be as glorious to ski as a resort. Maps of snowmobile trails and of the numerous national forest trails are readily available.
Remember that weather shifts can be extreme, and going into unmarked mountain wilderness regions without proper guidance and equipment is dangerous. Bear in mind that frostbite happens even at relatively mild temperatures, as long as the wind is blowing; your best advice may come from the morning’s weather forecasts, which can be extensive and will warn of frostbite, wind changes, and severe temperature drops.
Even for the snowbunny who best loves the fireplace and a good book, getting a sense of what’s happening outside will enhance each day’s pleasure. Winter can be Vermont’s most picturesque season, and is surely the traditional hallmark of New England.
Although Burlington is home to Vermont’s only major airport, there are a number of small year-round state and private airfields. Helicopters and small planes offer a fresh view of the mountain scenery. Hot-air balloons do the same, but with a sweet slowness and near silence that provide a new experience of air and height. Mountains and sharp drops create excellent conditions for paragliding and hang gliding. Lessons and rentals are found in almost every region of the state.
Almost any hike in Vermont can be an ecological investigation. A number of the guide and tour services offer special focus on wildlife and plants. Primitive bogs and plenty of wetlands shelter varied bird communities. In the following chapters, listings of these tours and guide services are followed by historical and cultural walking tours and points of interest.
Country inns and bed-and-breakfast homes line every major route through Vermont, and many have gourmet cuisine prepared by extraordinary chefs. Regional listings offer some of the highlights, and give you resources for tracking down more.
In each region there are also tips for sampling some of the less obvious eateries, like tearooms, bakeries, and unusual restaurants. Searching for a good meal can be an enticing adventure; however, if you’ve been exploring some vigorous sport or even just on the road for several hours, it’s nice to have a good place marked out for dinner and for the night.
Vermont’s resort hotels often date back to the 1800s, but have been restored or remodeled with modern conveniences. The finest of these are listed in each region, along with a handful of comfortable, country lodgings. Almost all lodgings have at least breakfast available, and most have restaurants nearby. Listings of bed-and-breakfast homes and of farms open to guests change frequently, so this book has some of the more established places and "where to look" to find more in each region.
ACCOMMODATIONS PRICE KEY
Prices are per person, per night, double occupancy, for hotels and resorts. For bed and breakfasts prices are usually per room, per night. Ask when you make your reservations.
For the outdoor-bound, Vermont has plenty of state campgrounds and the shelters of the national forest. These may range from the gracious fly-fishing lodge at Seyon Lake to lean-to shelters to tent sites. Some campgrounds are on lakeshores; others are high in the mountains; and there are even some islands in Lake Champlain that can be reached only by boat and require advance reservations with the state park rangers. Reservations will soon be possible by e-mail; call the appropriate campground for e-mail addresses.
Private campgrounds usually offer more family orientation, and some are geared for longer term residence in cottages or recreational vehicles. Local information is available at nearly every general store, and the state Department of Tourism posts weatherproof bulletin boards of lodgings and attractions.
Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing (134 State Street, Montpelier, VT 05601-1471, 828-3237 or 800-VERMONT; Web site www.travel-vermont.com) offers free publications about the state, including winter and summer event guidebooks and guides to campgrounds, country inns, fishing and hunting, and historic sites. Information is also available by fax through an automated fax service; call 800-833-9756, and follow the voice prompts.
Vermont Chamber of Commerce (PO Box 37, Montpelier, VT 05601, 223-3443, Web site www.vtchamber.com, e-mail info@vtchambr.com) offers a regularly updated listing of country inns and bed-and-breakfast homes.
Arlington Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 245, Arlington, VT 05250, 375-2800, Web site www.arlingtonvt.com.
Bennington Chamber of Commerce, on Route 7 (North Street) north of the center of town, 447-3311, Web site www. bennington.com.
Brattleboro Chamber of Commerce, 180 Main Street, Brattleboro, VT 05301, 254-4565, Web site www.sover.net/~bratchmb/recreate.html.
Central Vermont Chamber of Commerce (for Barre-Montpelier area), PO Box 336, Barre, VT 05641, 229-5711, Web site www.central-vt.com.
Chester Area Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 623, Chester, VT 05143, 875-2939, Web site www.chester-vt.com.
Dorset Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 121, Dorset, VT 05251, 867-2450, Web site www.dorsetvt.com.
Manchester & the Mountains Chamber of Commerce, 5046 Main St., Ste. 1, Manchester Center, VT 05255, 362-2100, Web site www.manchesterandmtns.com.
Mount Snow Valley Chamber of Commerce, 877-VT-SOUTH, Web site www.visitvermont.com.
Northeast Kingdom Chamber of Commerce, 30 Western Avenue, St. Johnsbury, VT 05819, 748-3678 or 800-639-6379, Web site www.vermontnekchamber.org.
Randolph Area Chamber of Commerce, 728-9027, Web site www.randolph-chamber.com.
Southern Vermont Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 364, Arlington, VT 05201, 877-SO-VERMONT, Web site www. SoVermont.com.
ACCESSIBLE ADVENTURES: If you’ve been an "armchair traveler," just reading about adventures but not pursuing them, and your armchair is a wheelchair, start making a list of where you want to go. Accessible Adventures provides a 29-passenger motor coach with ADA lift and modular seating to accommodate wheelchairs, and plans tours that go for a day or longer. Contact them at Route 100, Village Square, Waitsfield, VT 05673-0888; 496-2252 or 888-880-0222. Check out their Web site www. accessibleadventures.com). Also, see the description of the Golden Stage Inn in Ludlow, page 149. Note that many Vermont state parks provide wheelchair access for fishing. More changes are coming, and can be followed at the state parks Web site listed below.
Parks, Forests, Environmental Organizations
Vermont State Parks, 103 South Main Street, Waterbury, VT 05671-0603 (better to write than to visit this office), 241-3655 or 800-VERMONT, Web site www.vtstateparks.com.
Maps and information, mostly at no charge, are available from the Green Mountain National Forest (231 N. Main Street, Rutland, VT 05701-2417; 747-6700, TTY 747-6765). Better yet, visit one of the three local offices and talk with Forest Service rangers in Manchester (Routes 11 and 30, 362-2307), Middlebury (Route 7 just south of town, 388-4362), and Rochester (Route 100 south of the village, 767-4261).
Vermont Department of Fish and Wildlife, 800-VERMONT, Web site www.anr.state.vt.us/fw/fwhome.
Green Hotels in the Green Mountain State (designated lodgings that show a commitment to preserving Vermont’s natural resources), Web site www.anr.state.vt.us/dec/ead/eadhome.htm.
Guides for outdoor adventures abound in Vermont, some with general services and others specializing in fields like wildlife photography, paragliding, dog sledding, and moonlight sailing. Adventure Guides of Vermont (not connected with this book) is a statewide registry that offers a listing of guides pre-screened for expertise and safety, including first-aid and rescue skills. Gray Stevens, president of the guide association and its linked travel agency division, proposes to "turn Vermont into an outdoor classroom." Reach him at Adventure Guides of Vermont, Inc., PO Box 3, North Ferrisburgh, VT 05473; 425-6211, 800-425-TRIP, fax 425-6218. E-mail and a Web site are in progress; call for details.
Lodging Services
Vermont has a statewide lodging reservations bureau: Vermont Lodging
& Restaurant Association, Three Main Street, Suite 106, Burlington,
VT 05401, - 660-9001; Web site www. visitvt.com.
Enchanted Weddings (serves all of Vermont with wedding planning),
155 Warm Brook Road, Arlington, VT 05250, Tel: 375-6865 or 800-733-5125,
Web site www.enchantedweddings.com.
Vermont Antiques Dealers’ Association, Yellow House Antiques,
88 Reading Farms Road, Reading, VT 05062 - 484-7799, Web site
www.antweb.com/vada (brochure of member shops available if you send
a self-addressed stamped #10 envelope).
On the Internet, check out www.vtguides.com, where you can find the
Vermont Traveler’s Guidebook on-line.
Recommended Reading
Several guidebooks are mentioned often in this guide, and can be found at most local bookshops or ordered from the publishers, as follows:
Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont, Green Mountain Club,
Route 100, RR1, Box 650, Waterbury Center, VT 05677 - 244-7037.
Long Trail Guide, Green Mountain Club, Route 100, RR1, Box
650, Waterbury Center, VT 05677 - 244-7037.
25 Bicycle Tours in Vermont, by John Freidin, Backcountry Publications, The Countryman Press, PO Box 175, Woodstock, VT 05091-0175.
Vermont Road Atlas and Guide (contains topographic and street maps), Northern Cartographic, Inc., 4050 Williston Road, South Burlington, VT 05403.
Appalachian Mountain Club River Guide, New Hampshire, Vermont, Appalachian Mountain Club Books, 5 Joy Street, Boston, MA 02108.
Catamount Trail Guidebook, Catamount Trail Association,
PO Box 1235, Burlington, VT 05402 - 864-5794.
