The Southeastern Gateway to Vermont puts year-round energy into entertainment, with festivals for all seasons, music and art events dotting the calendar, and a wealth of rivers and mountains, excitement and relaxation. Most visitors arrive here on Interstate 91, after driving through the final flattened out rolling hills of Massachusetts, and find an official Welcome Center just beyond the state line. If you happen to enter on the older parallel highway, Route 5, you’ll pass through the village of Guilford, where a number of crafts businesses operate. Here you’ll also see signs pointing toward Vermont’s only nuclear power plant.
The first three interstate exits are for districts of Brattleboro, a city by local standards but nationally known as the fifth-best small town in America (Norman Crampton’s assessment from his book, The 100 Best Small Towns in America). Nestled between the West and Connecticut Rivers, the town occupies a strategic entry position that was first held by the British in the 1700s with Fort Dummer, intended to control Indian forays as the settlers moved northward.
Roads out of Brattleboro follow the rivers up into the surrounding mountains. Two major ski resorts are within an hour’s drive, and two more are scheduled to open at the end of 1997. Between Brattleboro and these highest peaks are rapidly rising hills and picturesque villages. Nearby Marlboro is home to a noted arts college and an equally noted music festival. A winery draws visitors to Jacksonville. The villages of Newfane and Grafton, to the north, preserve the charm of earlier centuries. The roadsides are lined with farms, comfortable old homes, and plenty of inns and bed-and-breakfast lodgings.
At the western edge of this region, the Green Mountain National Forest begins, a mysteriously captivating wilderness of long-used trails and plenty of wildlife, from birds to bears to foxes and the occasional bobcat. Two large lakes, the Harriman and Somerset Reservoirs, offer flat-water canoeing and kayaking in wooded surroundings. The Green, West, and Saxtons Rivers are lively whitewater canoe challenges, particularly in spring, and periodic water releases at Ball Mountain Dam in Jamaica turn the West River into a "whitewater rodeo."
The eastern edge of the region borders the wide, meandering Connecticut River, where boating ranges from cruise boats to canoes, kayaks, and sailboats. Fishing catch includes freshwater salmon, which can also be seen at several of the power stations along the river, as the determined fish climb fish ladders to more northern stretches of water. The towns along the Connecticut River offer encouragement and support to bicyclists and hikers year-round, and friendly innkeepers make equipment available. From the railroad town of Bellows Falls, you can still ride a train into the hills in summer and fall. Deer, wild turkeys, and Canada geese come close to "civilization" here too, perhaps drawn by the lush farmland and heavily bearing apple orchards.
Touring in the Southeastern Gateway begins in Brattleboro. From there, head directly north on Interstate 91 or its slower, more down-to-earth shadow, Route 5, to follow the Connecticut River valley. Or take one of the spokes out from the hub of Brattleboro to reach Marlboro, Jacksonville, and Wilmington to the west, starting on Route 9; Route 30 out to Newfane, Townshend, and the ski country that starts in Bondville and Londonderry, with the water adventures of Jamaica nearby; or meander off Route 30 on the back roads that reach Grafton, one of Vermont’s two most dramatic historic preservation efforts.
This small gateway city is a wonderful hodgepodge of history and cultures. It’s been called a "college town without a college" because of the casual atmosphere and the abundance of small eateries like bakeries, cafés, delicatessens, and exquisite chef-managed dining. Sports suppliers, tour guides, and outdoor recreation line up next to galleries, films, and musical events. The nearby Center for International Living and the small but notable Marlboro College, where so many artists, musicians, and writers have lived, have drawn diverse ethnic groups and their dining pleasures to the area as well.
A GREENHOUSE ON THE INTERSTATE
The Vermont Welcome Center, where you cross from Massachusetts on Interstate 91, is the busiest in the state. It baffles many a visitor to see greenhouses at the site. Actually the plant habitats are part of an elaborate "Living Machine" that treats wastewater on the spot, first changing it into a fertile sludge and then allowing carefully balanced plant and aquatic communities to use the waste and convert the nutrients in it. It’s designed to handle 4,300 visitors a day using the bathrooms, an impressive new approach to protecting the environment. Sorry, visitors can’t get tour the system at the Welcome Center, but for more information, check out the Living Technologies Web site at www. livingmachines.com (
Driving around Brattleboro can be frustrating because the town roads barely cope with traffic at commuter times and the lunch hour. But there’s plenty of parking in municipal lots at the center of town, so a walking tour is a pleasure. Stop at the Chamber of Commerce, well marked at 180 Main Street, to pick up a leaflet describing a historic walking tour among the widely differing architectural gems. From the 1890 Wells Fountain at the north end of Main Street, to the former railroad station now the Brattleboro Museum and Art Center at the southern end of Main Street, the tour is a casual half-hour walk. Midway along the route is the Latchis Hotel, 50 Main Street (
254-6300). You won’t want to miss the Latchis: it’s listed on the National Historic Register of Places, one of only two prime Art Deco-style buildings in Vermont. There are terrazzo floors and chrome fixtures, a restaurant, a pub grille with its own brewery (Windham Brewery, featuring honest ales, porters, and lagers; tours available by calling ahead; see page 73 for more information), and a wide-screen movie theater that blends first-run movies and independent film showings. The 60 hotel rooms are up above.
Although Brattleboro’s roots date back to Fort Dummer in 1724 (and before that, to Native American cultures), the current downtown is only 100 to 150 years old. There are dramatically elegant church buildings, and the overhanging roof cornices of the present business buildings vary from copper to brick to clay relief patterns. The Main Street clock, circa 1908, is made of cast iron and tops a Corinthian column with sculpted acacia leaves. This is small-town America at its most decorative!
FOR HISTORY BUFFS:
The Brattleboro Historical Society has a room on the third floor of the Municipal Building, an impressive Victorian Gothic building with mansard roof at the north end of Main Street. The society houses a collection of artifacts and documents; contact the society in advance to get access (PO Box 6392, Brattleboro, VT 05302-6392; 254-4957). You can usually count on it being open on Thursday afternoons, 1 to 4 p.m.
The Brattleboro Museum and Art Center (Canal and Bridge Streets; 257-0124) is open from mid-May to early November. The museum, housed in a former railroad station built of local quartzite rubble, owns a permanent collection of Estey organs, once made in the town. There are also changing exhibits of art, local history, and regional fine craft work. The town has at least 10 more galleries, one within a bookstore and another within a chocolate factory — ask at the Chamber of Commerce for the "gallery walk" listing. All are either on or within a minute’s stroll of Main Street.
Your walk from the Chamber of Commerce to the museum may take a casual half-hour, but only if you are immune from distractions, especially the scent of good food. Small luncheonettes cater to the town’s business crowd, and there’s a fresh-air espresso stand on Main Street during mild weather. There are also the heady aromas of at least three Brattleboro bakeries.
Another downtown road to explore is Elliott Street, where the town’s second brewery is open seven days a week. McNeill’s Brewery ( 254-2553) at 90 Elliott Street, was called "one of the top 10 beer places in the world" by Yankee Brew News; games and food are also available, and the cozy pub welcomes families. Down the road at number 55 is another "food factory," Tom and Sally’s Handmade Chocolates ( 258-3065), which has picture windows at the front and back of the building to let you watch the chocolates being made. (This is the home of a noted Vermont product, Vermont Cow Pies, which are pure chocolate, "no doo-doo.")
PLANS FOR A RIVER VIEW
Over the next few years, Brattleboro residents hope to open the downtown area directly to the Connecticut River by removing an old building from the east side of Main Street, creating waterfront access through a park and food court. If you run into construction in this town of ordinarily trying traffic, think of it as a gift for the future, and take a look at how the project is coming along. It should be a great change.
Head north along Route 5, known here as the Putney Road, and discover two very different regions of the city. The first is anchored around the Marina Restaurant, on the left, and Connecticut River Safari on the right. These "on the water" businesses take advantage of the Connecticut River to launch visitors into adventure. The Marina (
254-1263) is the home of the Belle of Brattleboro, a handsome, mahogany-trimmed river boat that heads out for tours. Music, lunch, brunch, and sunset cruises are offered; charters can be reserved too. But if you long to paddle your own canoe, take the other side of the highway and slip into Connecticut River Safari ( 257-5008). Not only are there canoes and kayaks for rent, there are also river touring and waterway adventure packages for individuals, couples, families, and groups, including overnight trips that involve either camping out or staying at an inn. A canoe shuttle makes life easy. The canoe touring center also offers repairs, paddling advice, and complimentary car racks.
Farther up the Putney Road (Route 5) is a strip of chain stores, restaurants, and entertainment businesses, which would look much like any other business area except for some interesting eateries tucked into the mix. See Where To Eat on page 72 for details.
Another northbound road out of the center of Brattleboro is Route 30, which leads to some of the state’s most picturesque villages. Before it gets far from the center of town, it passes the rolling meadows and imposing stone tower that are part of the Brattleboro Retreat, one of the oldest psychiatric hospitals in the United States (founded in 1834). The tower is surrounded by pleasant walking trails. You can park on Route 30 by Linden Lodge and walk the marked path to the tower in the daytime.
If you head south instead, go all the way to Vernon on Route 142 to find the Connecticut River fish ladder at the New England Power Company station. American shad and Atlantic salmon negotiate the elevation of 35 feet along a 984-foot fish ladder in a series of 51 pools. The best viewing is from mid-May to mid-July, and it is open at no charge seven days a week. For group tours and special arrangements, speak with Ken Alton at
603-443-9232. In the same block of town is the imposing office of the Holstein Association, a national organization of owners of the black and white dairy cattle that are seen over much of Vermont’s landscape.
If you stick with Route 5 instead, south of the downtown area is Canal Street, with a mix of pizzerias, small restaurants, car washes, and car dealers. Just as it reaches Interstate 91, there is a small outlet center featuring 11 name-brand clothing and accessory outlets.
Festivals are traditional in Brattleboro, and are regularly scheduled to celebrate the seasons. In mid-February there is the Harris Hill Ski Jump; a winter carnival follows at the end of the month; and after a classic "home and recreation show" in April, the town turns to a giant block party called May Magic. The Fourth of July is a big holiday, as are Village Days at the end of July (don’t miss the river cruises). Autumn includes Apple Days (late September). Holly Days open December, and Last Night, with sleigh rides, free skiing and skating, and a fireworks finale, closes the year. The Brattleboro Area Chamber of Commerce (
254-4565) has dates as they are set. Other local gatherings also are listed by the Chamber, including the Earth Spirit Festival of workshops, entertainment, and a spiritual fair.
There are music festivals, too, organized by the Brattleboro Music Center (
257-4523). Most noted is the Bach Festival each autumn; there is also a winter chamber series, a spring festival, and a summer jazz festival. Call for dates and locations of these festivals and of the chamber concerts presented in fall, winter, and spring.
Talk of music leads directly to Marlboro, a village eight miles west of Brattleboro on Route 9. Two miles south of the village center is Marlboro College, a four-year private college of arts and sciences with tremendous programs in music and drama. The college has been a leader in innovative, individualized college education. Each summer a series of 15 chamber concerts is held at the college; Pablo Casals and Rudolph Serkin helped establish the music festival. Call for tickets (
254-2394); they can also be ordered by mail: in spring, Marlboro Music Festival, 135 South 18th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103, and in summer (after June 6), Marlboro Music Festival, Marlboro, VT 05344. By May, some performances are already sold out, but extra seats may be available in the porch adjacent to the college auditorium.
The village of Marlboro itself is quiet in winter, but blossoms into a peaceful rural retreat of mountain views, fishing waters, antique shops, and crafts studios. The Marlboro Historical Society in the village is open on summer Saturdays. A relative newcomer to Marlboro is the Living History Association Museum, on Route 9. With lively performances and history-laden presentations, the museum brings distant times and events as close as the costumed characters walking into the room. Programs for tour groups interweave folklore and fact, with topics like Colonial Courtesies, and Dulcimer Daze (a Civil War music approach). Write ahead to check availability, especially for groups: Living History Association, PO Box 1389, Wilmington, VT 05363 (don’t let the mailing address confuse you; the museum is in the town of Marlboro). Summer hours are 10 to 5 on Thursday through Saturday; fall hours extend to seven days a week during the last week of September and the month of October. There is no admission charge.
Two miles west of Marlboro is the left (south) turn for Jacksonville. Take Route 112 six miles south of Wilmington and you’ll reach this small village, where the North River Winery (
368-7557) is open year-round for tours and tastings at its 1850s farmstead. In winter they are open on weekends only; from June through December the winery is open daily. The specialties are fruit wines like apple, cranberry apple, and other blends.
Twenty miles west of Brattleboro on Route 9 is the village of Wilmington. This little collection of shops, inns, and historic buildings is a gateway town itself, for the Mount Snow-Haystack ski areas just north and for picturesque Route 100, which winds along river valleys all the way north through the state. The nearby ski areas have had a tremendous impact on the region, encouraging four-season sports and adventuring that ranges from extreme mountain biking competitions to sleigh rides, llama treks, and miles of hiking and snowmobile trails.
Wilmington centers on the crossroads of the two highways, Routes 9 and 100. There’s an information booth open in active seasons (closed, for instance, in late October between foliage and skiing!), where there are listings of lodgings and dining, as well as a walking tour leaflet that details town history. Wilmington dates back to the 1700s, a settlement formed around grist mills on the Deerfield River. Just west of town is Lake Whitingham, also known as the Harriman Reservoir, where divers can examine the old foundations of the "drowned" town of Mountain Mills. A small paddlewheel tour ship cruises the lake.
Slipping six miles south of town on Route 100 takes you to Jacksonville, noted for its winery and crafts studios. Leaving town leads almost immediately into ski country: take Route 9 about 1.2 miles west to reach the right turn for Haystack Mountain Ski Area, or go seven miles north on Route 100 to Mount Snow. The two resorts are owned by one company, and share passes and connecting trails. Mountain biking trails here are among the finest in New England. In addition, the Merrell Hiking Center keeps the resorts busy in "green" weather.
Recommended spots to visit to soak up the beauty of the Wilmington area are the Wheeler Farm, just north of Wilmington on Route 100 (cows graze in front of ancient maples) and the Adams Farm, off Route 100 (also north of town) on Higley Hill Road. For views, drive down Route 100 to half a mile south of the Route 9 intersection, and turn left onto Boyd Hill Road. The horse farms along this route are especially lovely. When the road reaches a ‘T’ after about four miles, a right turn takes you to Lake Whitingham, where there are several swimming and picnicking areas. The shoreline is owned by the New England Power Company, which cares for the eight-mile-long lake and keeps it immune from development.
Dover was once a single village, about five miles north of Wilmington just off Route 100, but Dover Hill has always divided west from east. West Dover developed around an early mill complex, and buildings in the district date from 1805 to 1885, including the old school, church, village store, and a Greek Revival-style inn. West Dover, actually on Route 100, is now primarily focused around the pair of ski resorts, Haystack and Mount Snow. Mount Snow is just west of the center of town. From the Mount Snow turnoff, take Handle Road south toward Haystack to see one of the oldest summer colonies in New England, where the farmhouses have been restored and maintained with pride and elegance.
Taking a different path outward from Brattleboro, drive northwest along Route 30 to the village of Newfane. In 1787 Newfane became the shire town, the local term for county seat, and was built around a handsome common, with architectural styles ranging from Federal to Colonial Revival, and especially Greek Revival (love those columns!). The entire village is a National Historic District, and a leaflet provided by the town library details a historic walking tour. This is a classic Vermont village, well worth the visit. One of the village’s most noted summer residents, economist John Kenneth Galbraith, helped bring the lodging and dining here to public attention. There are two exquisite inns and, of course, plenty of bed-and-breakfast lodging too. In warm weather, Newfane hosts a traditional Sunday flea market. There are also two general stores to explore, and an especially interesting cemetery where the remains of Sir Isaac Newton (the given name of a local resident!) are buried.
Jamaica is another interesting stop on Route 30 as the highway rises toward the higher mountains. The old railyards that once were the center of the town’s economy are now part of Jamaica State Park (758 acres), which has campsites and a great swimming hole. The region is especially dear to adventurers who paddle wild rivers; the West River here swells to wild abandon with dam releases that result in a "whitewater rodeo," and even non-paddlers find the excitement worth watching. The dam is on Ball Mountain Lake, an 85-acre delight in the wilderness, well provided with campsites. You can follow the old railroad bed from the state park to the dam.
At last, 38 miles from Brattleboro, Route 30 rises to the really exciting terrain: Stratton Mountain is 3,936 feet high, and Bondville is the cluster of houses on Route 30 just before you reach the mountain resort. Four miles up the Stratton Mountain access road is a forest of condominiums and the Mountain Market. Then comes the mountain itself, well worth the climb. There are two distinct areas to it, the original North Face and the sunnier Sun Bowl. In winter, the resort has "adventure parks" for skiers and snowboarders. In the summer, visitors find tennis, golf, horseback riding, outdoor concerts, and especially mountain biking. Special highlights are the Sun Bowl Ranch at the Stratton Mountain Resort (
297-2200), featuring scenic trail rides (donkeys also available!), a top-rated tennis school, and an extension program with the Orvis Fly Fishing School, one of Manchester’s greatest assets. Festivals at Stratton bring great music to the region.
The village of South Londonderry has an 1800s-era historic district along the narrow valley of the West River. Reflected in the old buildings are the mills and industries that gave the region its economic health in the 19th century. Londonderry is also home to Magic Mountain, (
824-5645) a ski area tentatively back in business. Nearby cross-country skiing and mountain biking make the region a healthy challenge for outdoor adventures. The area is also comfortable lodging for the three nearby ski areas: Stratton Mountain in Bondville; Bromley in Peru (a bit farther west); and Okemo, to the north outside Ludlow.
The third major pathway outward from Brattleboro is Interstate 91 and its humbler antecedent, Route 5, both continuing all the way north through the state along the Connecticut River, Vermont’s boundary with New Hampshire. Putney is the perfect distance away for a northward terminus for bicyclists and paddlers; it’s about eight miles. Use Exit 4 from the interstate, or take your time and enjoy the gentle rolling bends of Route 5.
The village of Putney still resembles the early industrial center it was, and there are many Federal style homes to appreciate. At least one Putney resident was noted for being a dissident: John Humphrey Noyes, who founded a utopian religious experiment called "perfectionism." A local uproar in 1847 sent Noyes off to New York State, where he ended up prospering along with the Oneida Community.
Now the town is noted more for its Yellow Barn Music Festival (
387-6637 or 800-639-3819) of about 20 chamber concerts each summer, and for the impact of the West Hill Bike Shop ( 387-5718), which has supported mountain biking as a year-round sport for the entire region. A visit to town also should include a stop at the Basketville Factory Store ( 387-5509), where tours retrace 150 years of the family business. About five miles north of town on Route 5 is a theme park/playland called Santa’s Land ( 387-5550; 800-726-8299), open from Memorial Day to Christmas, designed mainly for children’s fun, but also for marketing holiday ornaments and collectibles. The park includes a "sweet shop" and a family-oriented restaurant. Continue north until Route 5 passes under the interstate and take the first right turn to reach Brandywine Glassworks, where craftsman Robert Burch works at the fierce flames of the glass furnace. Call ahead if you’d like to visit ( 387-4032).
This is an old-time railroad town, complete with a touring train ride, the Green Mountain Flyer (
463-3069) that goes 13 miles into the mountains during summer and foliage season, and a historic district of commercial and industrial buildings. Bellows Falls is named for the Great Falls of the Connecticut River. It is still a working-class town, and the river and nearby power canal are tapped for power with impressive facilities. A walking tour should include the Vilas Bridge and, just below it, a glimpse of Native American petroglyphs above the river bank. There is also a small museum, the Adams Gristmill Museum, which is open by appointment ( 463-4280). Also call ahead if you want to visit the working fish ladder at the New England Power Company dam ( 463-3226); for group tours and special arrangements contact Ken Alton at 603-443-9232.
HOME-GROWN DELIGHTS:
It’s traditional to stop on Route 5 at Allen Bros. Family Farm and Orchard ( 800-448-5686), a farmstand that’s been around since 1956. After you select from the wide array of locally grown fruits and vegetables, explore the kitchen, bakery and deli section, the Vermont cheeses and, of course, the maple syrup. There’s good coffee, too. This is a great place to fill up your day-pack for a hike or to prepare for a picnic.
From Bellows Falls, detour away from the Connecticut River along Route 121 and enjoy the drive through superb fishing country. Twelve miles brings you through several small villages and at last to Grafton, a remarkable historical preservation project turned into a living treasure. Founded in 1780, Grafton had become a sheep center by 1850, with over 10,000 of the woolly animals grazing in its meadows. Soapstone quarrying, farming, and milling added to its economy. The Phelps Hotel, a stage stop between Boston and Montreal, housed such distinguished guests as Ulysses S. Grant and Ralph Waldo Emerson. Author Rudyard Kipling also stayed there.
But the village economy faded, reaching a low by 1940. In 1963, philanthropist Dean Mathey founded the Windham Foundation, which took on the restoration and maintenance of the town’s historic buildings and encouraged residents to pursue new avenues toward prosperity. The Phelps Hotel became the Old Tavern at Grafton, a luxury lodging that reaches out into the community with cross-country ski trails that double as summer walking ways. Agriculture bloomed in an active sheep farm and a cheese factory. Craftspeople and a gallery arrived.
Now Grafton is a picture-perfect sanctuary for visitors, specializing in gracious, cultured hospitality. There are art exhibits, lectures, and historic tours. A visit to the Grafton Village Cheese Co. (
843-2348) is both entertaining and tasty. There is a museum of natural history (small but dynamic; 843-2111); an exhibit of Windham Foundation treasures ( 843-2211); and collections held by the Grafton Historical Society ( 843-2564). Bicycles can be rented, and winter brings both cross-country skiing and horse-drawn sleigh rides. Stop at the Old Tavern for village maps and more ideas. This can easily be a day’s worth of touring, all in one small village.
Brattleboro’s two hiking trails are both easy stretches, a simple river-valley warmup to walking in Vermont. By heading south on South Main Street (which soon becomes Old Guilford Road), two miles of travel takes you to Fort Dummer State Park. About a quarter-mile from the park office (where you can get a trail map) is an intersection; the mile-long self-guiding nature trail starts just north of the intersection and meanders for a mile, with two additional loops of about a quarter-mile each. Best part: an overlook on a short spur, from which the vista includes the Connecticut River and Mount Monadnock.
Or, also starting from town, take Route 5 south to the Guilford Country Store, turn right on the Guilford Center Road, bear left after the village onto Sweet Pond Road, and continue 2.5 miles to Sweet Pond State Park, on the left. An hour’s walk around Sweet Pond is a relaxing ramble, with good possibilities of seeing waterfowl as well as enjoying the scenery.
Take Route 9 west out of Brattleboro for 10 miles to the Skyline Restaurant (
464-3536) with its "100-mile views" of the Berkshires from 2,350 feet. The staff will gladly point out a nearby fire tower path for a brisk leg stretch. Another three miles down Route 9 and you’ll reach Molly Stark State Park, where the trail up 2,415-foot Mount Olga leads to views of three states. When you park at the state facility, do check in with the ranger. Then head for the blue-blazed main trail, which crosses a stream on a wooden bridge, climbs to the east through the woods, and crosses two nice old stone walls before getting steeper. It is 0.8 mile to the summit of Mount Olga. Connecting trails, as detailed in the Green Mountain Club’s Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont, lead over to the defunct Hogback Mountain Ski Area. When you descend the peak on the blue-blazed trail, there’s a turn (also blue blazes) just below the summit that winds around through more stone walls, spending a scenic mile to get back to park headquarters.
Another good "peak vistas" climb is found when you reach Wilmington, the next town west of Brattleboro on Route 9. The center of town is marked by a traffic light for the intersection of Routes 100 and 9; stay on Route 9 another 1.1 miles to a right turn into the Chimney Hills Development, Haystack Road. After another 1.3 miles, make a left onto Chimney Hills Road. Go 1.6 miles more and turn right onto Binney Brook Road to the stop sign. A left onto Upper Dam leads (in another two miles) to the trailhead for the Haystack Mountain Trail, marked with a US Forest Service sign. The trail, which follows old hiking, snowmobile, and woods paths, is marked with blue and orange plastic tags; it climbs to the summit in 2.4 miles. Now you can see how Haystack and Mount Snow (originally one of two Mount Pisgahs in the state) are connected by the land ridge. The snowmobile trail ahead of you continues to Haystack Ski Area.
Now that you’ve gotten this far west, don’t miss out on the good hiking around the two reservoirs here, Somerset and Harriman (also called Lake Whitingham). About 5.3 miles west of the same Wilmington intersection traffic light, look for a right turn onto Somerset Road. It’s about six miles to the reservoir, which is a lake more than four miles long. Look for the picnic area just north of the dam; the East Shore Trail, a gift of the New England Power Company, begins here and winds along high ground for 4.2 miles. The halfway region is along a slope that has an expansive view of the ridge connecting Mount Snow and Haystack. The trail end, on the other hand, is in low ground at the lake shore, across from Streeter Island. Double yellow blazes are the trail mark. New England Power Company trails are for day use only; no camping or open fires, please.
Measuring again from the Wilmington intersection of Routes 9 and 100, the turnoff for the Harriman Reservoir Trail is 2.9 miles west. Turn left and cross the Deerfield River on an iron bridge. Turn left again and follow the gravel road for a mile to the picnic area (check out the view of Haystack here!). At a gate across the road, the trail begins. It follows — in an on-and-off fashion — the former railbed of the Hoosac Tunnel and Wilmington Railroad with views across the lake and into the mountains, plus stone walls and foundations, a "ghost trail" through what was once settled land. The trail isn’t blazed; it goes 7.2 miles to the south end of the lake, where another vehicle could be parked to catch you if you want to do only one direction. To reach the south end of the trail, take Route 100 south from Wilmington to Whitingham and go a mile west of the Whitingham post office to the paved Harriman Road. It’s nearly two miles to the end of the road and a parking area; the trail access is at a gap in the chain link fence, and when you go through it, head about 60 feet to the left of the main gate to find the trail. If you like predictability, you can get a detailed description, by tenths of a mile, of the rock cuts and landmarks along this trail, in the Green Mountain Club’s Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont. This is one of the nicest day-length hikes in the area, and ties in well with other local activities like boating and biking.
THE MERRELL HIKING CENTER
There’s a relatively recent treat in store at Mount Snow, where Vermont’s hiking boot manufacturer, Merrell Footwear, has teamed up with the ski resort to provide a new hiking center. The Merrell Hiking Center offers guided interpretive hikes, and ones focusing on special interests, such as wildflowers, bird photography, and geology, can also be requested (
464-4130 for details and schedules). There are also self-guided hikes and boot and gear rentals (a nice way to try out the products without big expense). Open from Memorial Day to Columbus Day, the Center also makes available (for a small fee) the chairlift to or from the summit. A two-day getaway package is also offered. The Mount Snow trails may seem overly tame by all this assistance, but there’s plenty of wilderness out there, and an elevation of 3,600 feet makes the climb a challenge, no matter how much help you get!
Heading from Brattleboro up Route 30 there are plenty of mountain hikes; Charles Marchant of Townshend (
365-7937) offers day hikes with an extra helping of history, and his 4 Seasons Touring also provides trips three to five days long. He specializes in local history and lore, especially old cemeteries and abandoned farms; moonlight trips are also offered! Charles Marchant also works with Walking Tours of Southern Vermont (see Bennington and Vermont Valley, page 91).
In Townshend State Forest is one of four Bald Mountains in Vermont. Take Route 30 north from Townshend to reach the state forest, going two miles to the Townshend Dam. Turn left (west) and take a narrow bridge across the spillway, then left again onto a dirt road and past the Scott Covered Bridge, which is the longest single-span covered bridge in the state. (Sure, get out of the car and walk across!) Bear right at the bridge to the park entrance, and pay a small day fee. Pick up your trail map at the park office, or use the Green Mountain Club’s Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont to check off the landmarks of the 3.1-mile loop, which ascends 1,100 feet to the summit. This is a classic woods trail, full of turns, brooks, and even an old cellar hole.
Townshend is the gateway to the outrageously interesting area of Jamaica State Park and Ball Mountain Lake, where terrain and water link up to provide high excitement in spring and fall with whitewater canoeing and kayaking. Jamaica State Park has a program of guided hikes. Some 3,000 acres of the West River Valley is now a greenway between Jamaica and Londonderry, owned by the Conservation Society of Southern Vermont.
The Hamilton Falls Trail begins in the state park and then enters the greenway. Pick up a trail map at the park office or use the Day Hiker’s Guide. The trail follows an old railbed for about two miles before ascending to one of the highest and most exhilarating waterfalls in Vermont. Once you get above Cobb Brook, you can take a spur to the base of the falls; then go back to the trail and drop downhill briefly before turning to the left onto a footpath that leads about 250 feet to the top of the falls.
There are caution signs at the top of the falls, as too many risk-takers have actually died playing on this slippery rocky area. Hang on to small children if you’ve taken them along!
The hike is worth every puff and stretch of the muscles. In summer you may have more company than you like, thanks to the falls being so spectacular; consider climbing on a damp day when less determined walkers stay home, or go early in the season when the water is high but most travelers haven’t yet arrived. The hike is actually 3.1 miles long, but takes longer than many trails of the same length due to the steeper section.
Jamaica State Park also offers an Overlook Trail that starts near the Hackberry lean-to. Again, pick up a map from the park office. This is a sensitive area to walk, as vegetation has suffered greatly from hikers; you can help by being careful to stay on the trail. There are worthwhile vistas at the summit of Little Ball Mountain. If you follow the trail downhill, it links with the West River Railroad bed along the Hamilton Falls Trail.
Finally, Stratton Mountain Resort in Bondville, like the other ski areas, has an active summer program with access to its wide network of trails. The mountain also offers a summer day camp for kids ages six to 12. There are plenty of activities if you want to leave part of the family in different surroundings while you head for the peak;
297-4051 for kids’ programs; 800-STRATTON for the resort and general information. A ride on the gondola lift can add variety to the day’s hiking. See the resort office for maps of the trails, as they may change from year to year.
The Stratton, Jamaica, and Wilmington area hikes are all at the edges of the Green Mountain National Forest; for hiking and climbing in the national forest, see the Central Vermont chapter.
Llama trekking is a wonderful way to relax as you explore the Green Mountains. That’s right, llamas thrive in Vermont, where their woolly coats and deep breathing fit right in with mountain weather. Gentle and peaceful as hiking companions, they ease the rigors of the trip by packing the weight, and also slow things down just a bit, to a comfortable walking pace. Rather than fighting your way up slopes until you’re breathless, or hurrying along wetlands at a speed that frightens away the wildlife, your pace with llamas is smooth and serene. The guide who accompanies your sweet beast of burden often has stories of history, local events, and natural wonders to enrich your ramble, and a gourmet meal may be among the llama’s bundles.
If your taste runs to guided tours, especially ones full of information on animal and plant life, or if you’d just like a break from toting that backpack and making your own trail lunch, consider a llama tour. Centered in Wilmington, Green Mountain Expeditions (
368-7147) offers various llama-assisted trips ranging from a three-hour nature hike (with or without lunch) to a day trek to an overnight pack trip in the Green Mountain National Forest. Expeditions can include either camping or a cozy bed and breakfast, complete with gourmet cuisine and four-poster beds.
In Vermont, horses are usually rented out only with trail guides, and the four riding stables in this region follow that approach. West River Lodge in Brookline (Hill Road,
365-7745) offers English trail rides, lessons, and stopovers with stables. Jack’s Horse Farm on the Westminster Road in Putney ( 387-2782) adds pony rides and hayrides to the trail rides and lessons. At Stratton Mountain Resort, the warmer weather activities include group trail rides or extended rides by the hour; call the Stratton Mountain Resort ( 297-2200), located off Route 30 in Bondville. Flames Stables ( 464-8329) is in Wilmington on Route 100, a mile south of the town’s main junction, and provides trail and pony rides in addition to its wagon and sleigh rides.
How about a hayride The Bailey family operates Fair Winds Farm with horse power, rather than tractors, but they’ll let the horses off from work to take you riding through the fields and woods (even by starlight!) in a wagon or sleigh full of hay. Reservations are required, and you should call well in advance (
254-9067). Refreshments can also be arranged. The farm is on Upper Dummerston Road, reached from Route 30, just north of Brattleboro. Another farm offering horse-drawn rides is the Robb Family Farm (see below).
BACKROAD FARM TOUR
A great backroad tour that takes advantage of spectacular scenery and some family farms can be found by taking Exit 2 from Interstate 91 and heading west on Route 9 to Christy’s Store; turn left here onto Greenleaf Street, and bear left at the next fork, to reach Ames Hill Road. On your left will be Ray’s Farm Stand, where you can buy Ben Bell’s freshly grown vegetables. Next is the Thurber family’s Lilac Ridge Farm with veggies and flowers, as well as maple syrup and Christmas trees (
254-8113). Stay with Ames Hill Road by bearing right at the next fork and find the Country Shop at the Robb Family Farm, a dairy farm offering farm tours, farm events, horse-drawn hayrides and sleigh rides (reservations required, 888-318-9087), maple syrup, and homemade donuts. Upper Way Farm comes next, with its apple orchard and fresh-pressed apple cider in fall ( 257-1157), and Moore’s Orchard is at the top of the hill, a place to stop and pick your own apples in September. The entire detour is 1_ miles long, and good fun.
Because Brattleboro is so close to two state lines, several interesting road bike trips include inter-state wheeling. From the center of town, go to the south end of Main Street by the art museum and turn left onto Bridge Street, then immediately right only Route 142. This relatively quiet road takes you along the Connecticut River, passing the Fort Dummer Monument, and on into Vernon, home of Vermont’s only nuclear power plant, Vermont Yankee. (The visitor’s center is open weekdays;
257-1416.) Proceed to East Northfield, Mass., and return via a third state, by turning left onto Route 10 and taking it to its intersection with Route 119 in Winchester, New Hampshire; Route 119 returns you to the bridge back into Brattleboro. Or, when you reach East Northfield keep going to the southwestern turnoff for Route 10, to the right, which will intersect with Route 5 in about five miles; turn north on Route 5 and return to Vermont, climbing the moderately steep hills through Guilford on the way back.
As Route 9 goes farther west from Brattleboro, the terrain gets rough for road biking. Steep climbs, winding roads, and narrow pavement with steady car traffic makes bicycling risky; the summer crowds make it downright hazardous. It is possible to avoid Route 9 by taking back roads south of the highway, south toward Guilford, then across through Halifax to eventually reach the Wilmington area, but again, the quick shifts in elevation make this a tough task.
Putney is truly the bicycling center of this region. It’s the home of Vermont’s first cycling club, the Putney Bicycle Club, and of the West Hill Shop (
387-5718), where road, off-road, and mountain biking are launched as year-round adventures. Most visitors reach Putney on Interstate 91 (Exit 4); the bike shop is on the east side of the Interstate. You’ll find rentals, purchases, local information, and plenty of advice, including maps, which are marked for you as you discuss your choices. West Hill also has winter biking tires with studs or chains, to make the most of the well-packed snowmobile trails in the area.
RECOMMENDED BIKE TOUR:
John Freidin, founder of Vermont Bicycle Touring (see Central Vermont chapter) and author of 25 Bicycle Tours in Vermont, probably knows more about biking here than anyone else. He recommends a 41_-mile loop in the Connecticut River Valley that includes views of the river from both banks, as you cycle through two states. The last stretch of the ride, from the small village of Westminster West back to Putney, is a tough workout, mostly uphill. But think of how good it feels as your blood races freely and with plenty of oxygen afterward!
Newfane’s picturesque village scene is also a good starting location for road biking. For more adventure, Newfane Off-Road Biking ( 365-7775 or 800-540-4671) plans routes and offers tours (with deluxe picnic lunches!) on abandoned town roads, logging trails, and bridle paths. Rentals are available. The shop is located on the Common at Newfane Market.
Finally, you can’t go wrong for road biking if you stick with Route 5 along the Connecticut River. The hills are mostly moderate, and the scenery is terrific. Sugarhouses, crafts studios, and farmstands line the road; general stores are good places for sandwiches, hot soup and good coffee. Although traffic moves briskly, the pavement is wide enough for a good margin of safety.
The rise and roll of the landscape makes for good mountain biking, and there are still plenty of old town roads and logging trails at the edges of Brattleboro. The town’s two bike shops, Burrows Specialized Sports (105 Main Street,
254-9430 or 257-1017, e-mail buspts@sover.net) and the Brattleboro Bike Shop (178 Main Street, 254-8644), will gladly go over maps and choices. West Brattleboro, a little less trafficky, has some even nicer back roads; park by the West Brattleboro Firehouse on Route 9 and cycle west to Christy’s Store, taking the left onto Greenleaf St. Bear right onto Abbott Road and continue to Ames Hill, where the road goes steeply uphill. At the top, turn left and catch the view from Moore’s Apple Orchard. A left at the next road and bearing left before the house gives you a road that turns to a trail, which will connect to Melchen Road. Bear left on the pavement to get back to West Brattleboro. Or, also from Christy’s Store, take the route to Green River: again go left onto Greenleaf Street, but this time follow the paved road for 5.5 miles. When the pavement ends, turn left onto the Green River covered bridge and waterfall. If you exit the bridge to the left and then bear left at the first junction, you’ll be following the river. After three miles, go left again across the bridge. Take a stiff climb to the Deer Park wilderness area of Halifax. Enter Halifax village by another left turn. When you reach Stage Road, turn left again back to Green River. This adds up to a 14-mile loop.
Vermont’s ski areas have become a strong asset for mountain bikers. First, the many cross-country ski trails became available for off-road biking. Then the downhill ski areas also adapted to the sport. In West Dover, north of Wilmington, Mount Snow Resort (
464-3333, 800-599-5754, Web site www.mountsnow.com) announces itself as the "mountain bike capital of the East," and has hosted World Cup races and extreme games with dual slalom and dual downhill. The resort’s motto: "This is Vermont anyway... if you want flat, go to Kansas." Tours, rentals, competitions, festivals, and a noted mountain bike school add to the 100-mile trail network.
DON’T MISS:
Mount Snow’s Wicked Wild Mountain Bike Festival, held at the end of July, with downhill, dual slalom, and cross-country competitions. 464-1100, ext. 4371 for information.
The town of Dover is building a five-mile paved pedestrian and bicycle trail from Mount Snow to the historic village center to the south. The Valley Trail is already half done, and funds are pending for the rest of the project.
Stratton Mountain Resort, reached from Route 30, also hosts mountain bikers on its trails in the summer. Call the resort ( 800-STRATTON), or visit the resort’s Internet site at Stratton Mountain Resort for dates of summer races and the autumn mountain bike jamboree. Rentals are available, as is a mountain bike gondola pass; there’s a bike repair shop for tune-ups, too. Viking Ski Touring Center ( 824-3933) in Londonderry also offers bike rentals and tours on cross-country trails.
The Connecticut River in Brattleboro is wide enough for sailing, but most boaters prefer canoes or kayaks here. There is also a cruise boat (see Touring, page 41), which leaves from the Marina Restaurant on the Putney Road (Route 5) north of town. Another boating choice is the West River, which forms the "meadows," a grassy mix of water and islands, just before it enters the Connecticut.
If you enjoy paddling, a good place to start is the Vermont Canoe Touring Center (
257-5008), 451 Putney Road (Route 5) in Brattleboro, across from the Marina Restaurant . Pick up maps of the easiest accesses here. Connecticut River Safari ( 257-5008) is a canoe touring center that rents (and sells) both canoes and kayaks, along with appropriate equipment. They also provide lessons, group programs, touring and guide service, connections for overnight canoe camping and outdoor experiences in more remote locations. The center also repairs boats (aluminum, fiberglass, wood, and canvas). To make life even more enjoyable, there is a canoe and kayak shuttle service, upriver, downriver, and west to Somerset and Harriman Reservoirs (near Wilmington).
RECOMMENDED READING: If you plan to paddle Vermont rivers without a guide or tour service showing you the "ropes," the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) River Guide to New Hampshire and Vermont is indispensable. The book is organized by watershed; rivers in the Southeastern Gateway empty into the Connecticut River, so they are in the Upper Connecticut River chapter. Check the listings for the Connecticut River and, heading north, for the West and Saxtons Rivers. One of the nicest treats for paddlers is 14 miles of unobstructed river (no dams) from Bellows Falls south to Vernon, the town south of Brattleboro.
For the West River and the Saxtons River, as for any river, it is important to check the route before paddling it, to find out where downed trees or decomposing dam structures have created potential life-threatening dangers. Also, remember the 50/50 rule: if the water and air temperature together don’t add up to at least 100, it’s too cold to paddle without a wetsuit or drysuit.
Accidents do happen, and river drownings are terrible events that occur all too often. Prevent them with these precautions, as well as the obvious others. Always wear a fully protective flotation jacket — never rely on a floating cushion. Know how to swim, and don’t exceed your skill level (be realistic!).
The best part of the Saxtons River to canoe is from Grafton to the town of Saxtons River; the section that follows, on down to the Connecticut River has too many dams to be really enjoyable. The put-in is at the Route 121 bridge about three-quarters of a mile northwest of the Route 35 intersection in Grafton. There are several choices for taking out, with a simple one being a half-mile before the town of Saxtons River.
The West River actually begins in Weston (see Upper Connecticut River Valley chapter), but becomes more navigable in Londonderry. A challenging five-mile section of ledges gives way to 6_ miles of easier water before reaching the backwater of the Ball Mountain Dam. There is a pretty tough carry here, up a half-mile to the road. Around the other side of the dam is the famous West River Run, an exciting stretch for canoeing and kayaking, thanks to spring and fall water releases at the dam. For this year’s dates, check the Jamaica State Park Web site at www.stateparks. com. There is a lot of fun to be had here — it’s a true whitewater rodeo, complete with crowds of spectators whooping the racers onward. The take-out is at Salmon Hole, nearly three miles past the dam. After this, there are three simpler sections of the river to run, but ledges and rapids should be carefully studied first.
Be sure to check on release schedules before you even think about running this stretch of the West River; water releases are powerful, fast, and dangerous. Know when they will happen and judge whether your skill level justifies being on the water at the time.
Lake boating in this region mostly means the Harriman and Somerset Reservoirs, near Wilmington. There is enough room here and good winds for sailing and board sailing, too. Harriman is also called Lake Whitingham; it is the largest lake that’s held entirely within the state, and was formed by damming the Deerfield River (by hand, a century ago!). It is over eight miles long with 21 miles of shoreline. New England Power Company owns and maintains the shoreline, and provides several access areas. Wards Cove is found by taking Route 100 south from Wilmington for a mile to the Flame Stables sign, with a right turn onto a dirt road that leads to the lake. Or, stay with Route 100 south through Jacksonville to Whitingham Center; half a mile past Brown’s Store take the right turn with an immediate left to the lake. You might also try the Mountain Mills access, reached by going to the center of Wilmington (where Route 100 turns north) and making a south turn onto Castle Hill Road. Turn quickly right onto Fairview Avenue, following signs to the boat launch, and then take the dirt road to the lake. For the Ox Bow access, stay with Route 9 west out of Wilmington for 1.7 miles to the Green Mountain Flagship business on the right, and pull in on the left. These four areas all have boat launches; there are rentals available at Green Mountain Flagship (
464-2975), which also runs a 65-passenger tour boat with historical narration (call for schedules, which vary by season).
Somerset Reservoir is accessed by taking Route 9 for 5.3 miles west of Wilmington to Somerset Road. There is a boat ramp at the dam. The lake is 10 miles long and well framed by the Mount Snow and Haystack peaks on one side and the Green Mountain Forest on the other.
Grout Pond and the Retreat Meadows (see next page) also offer relaxed flatwater exploration.
Fishing in the Harriman and Somerset reservoirs can yield brook trout, smallmouth bass, perch, pickerel, northern pike, and yellow smelt; Harriman also has landlocked salmon. They are especially well known for ice fishing. On the Connecticut River there is now shad fishing, as well as brook, rainbow, and brown trout, largemouth and smallmouth bass, walleye, pike, and perch. The West River is an especially good trout stream (brook and brown). The Saxtons River has rainbow trout as well.
One more pond to take note of is Grout Pond, reached from West Wardsboro (located on Route 100). From the center of the village, take the Arlington-West Wardsboro Road west through Stratton to reach the national forest parking area. The pond is also used by canoeists and windsurfers, with a 200-foot portage from the access road. Fish include perch, pickerel, and bass.
The Retreat Meadows, reached from Route 30, has a pull-off for parking, and offers bass, bluegill, pike, pickerel and perch. You can fish from the bank.
LOOKING FOR ANGLING GEAR
Try Sam’s Outdoor Outfitters at 74 Main Street in Brattleboro ( 254-2933) and on the Square in Bellows Falls ( 463-3500).
FISHING GUIDES & OUTFITTERS
Strictly Trout,
David L. Deen (Orvis-endorsed), RFD3, Box 800, Westminster West, VT 05346; 869-3116. Three guides, licensed in both Vermont and New Hampshire. Cover all Vermont rivers but have special interest in the Connecticut, especially fly-fishing and American shad (June).
Bass Fishing Charters,
Jim Sweeney, HCR63, Box 16, West Dover, VT 05356; 464-5485.
There are beaches at many state parks, but area residents get a lot of fun from dipping into (unsupervised) swimming holes like the ones off Route 30 in the West River, by the Dummerston Bridge and by the Scott covered bridge. There’s also a good spot below the Vermont Dam, just south of Brattleboro. Look for the cars by the side of the road.
SWIMMING LESSONS
Tyler Swim School,
Colonial Motel & Spa, Putney Road, Brattleboro, VT 05301, 254-5040, offers lessons for infants to coached masters swimming and water aerobics, year-round in a 75-foot heated indoor lap pool. Jacuzzi and massage services available. Certified by the National Swim School Association.
Mount Snow/Haystack might as well be considered one very large ski resort of 540 acres, although there are facilities for each mountain. The Ridge Touring Trail, for Nordic skiing only, ties the two peaks together, and both are owned by American Skiing Company. With 130 trails and 24 lifts, this is the most active ski slope in Southern Vermont. Most of the lifts are chairlifts, including a 7,300-foot quad, the Yankee Clipper, as well as a high-speed mile-long quad, the Canyon Quad. Snowboarding is a big priority, with a snowboard park that includes a 400-foot illuminated halfpipe for night riding. Mount Snow offers 137 acres of tree skiing, too. Child care is available for infants on up, and includes kids’ activities and camps as well as lessons.
There are three lodges and a Vacation Center at Mount Snow and a pair at Haystack. Snowmaking coverage is nearly complete, making sure there’s skiable terrain no matter how erratic the weather gets. The North Face of Mount Snow is the most challenging, with nearly every trail having either a single- or double-diamond rating. The season is sure to open by mid-November and lasts well into April. The site also includes rentals, repairs, a ski shop, cafeterias, restaurant, lounges, and a night club. For information,
464-3333 or 800-599-5754; Web site www.mountsnow.com.
800-STRATTON or 787-2886) offers over 500 acres of challenging terrain, dropping 2,003 vertical feet, with a high-speed gondola and what the resort calls "the best halfpipe on the planet" for snowboarders. There are adventure parks for skiers and snowboarders, with terrain gardens, woods trails, carving parks, bump terrain, and pocket playgrounds. Twelve lifts operate, including the summit gondola and the six-passenger detachable chairlift. Snowmaking coverage is 75. Events, races, and celebrations keep the slopes lively. A unique Night Rider Program offers newcomers a chance to learn to ski and snowboard under the lights every Friday and Saturday evening.
The resort includes luxurious accommodations, designer outlet shops, and restaurants, as well as ski and snowboard schools, and child care/camp activities from age six weeks.
Two downhill ski areas in this region are struggling to reopen, and are likely to be less crowded. One, Maple Valley Ski Area at Sugar Mountain in West Dummerston (
254-6083), has been closed for renovations. The other is Magic Mountain in Londonderry ( 824-5645). Call the resorts to find out current status.
Cross-country skiing is found at the Timber Creek Cross Country Ski Center (
464-0999) across from Mount Snow. It has 16 km of trails, and offers instruction, ski shop, restaurant, and lodging. The Hermitage Inn ( 464-3511) has 55 km of trails at an elevation of 2,000 feet, and also offers instruction, a ski shop, dining, and lodging. A third Wilmington location for Nordic skiing is the White House Inn ( 464-2135), which has a 43-km ski touring center; rentals include snowshoes, and there are guided tours as well as lessons, with gracious dining and lodging on site.
297-4063. Instruction, rentals, and repairs are on hand. Also in Londonderry is Tater Hill ( 824-6578), with 25 km of trails, instruction and rentals; and Viking Cross-Country Ski Center ( 824-3933), one of the first public ski touring centers in the country, offering 40 km of trails and a range of instruction, ski shop and rentals, and dining and lodging. At Viking, the Cobble Hill Trail, a 13-km backcountry loop, is a treat for experienced skiers.
STAY & SKI:
Many inns in this region now offer cross-country skiing in the fields and back roads nearby. The Sitzmark in Wilmington ( 464-3384) has 12 km of trails, plus rentals and lessons. In Landgrove, the next town over from Londonderry, there are 26 km of trails and a rental shop and lessons at the Meadow Brook Inn ( 824-6444). And in Londonderry itself, the Swiss Inn ( 824-3442 or 800-847-9477) created a network of snowshoe trails, woodsy and easily traversed. The Swiss Inn also arranges sleigh rides with a nearby farm, as do many other country inns.
The Brattleboro area also offers Nordic skiing, but a special attraction there is the Harris Hill Ski Jump, a 70-meter Olympic-size jump. There is an international competition here each February, sanctioned by the US Ski Association and sponsored by the Brattleboro Outing Club, PO Box 335, Brattleboro, VT 05302; 257-7345. The club also puts together cross-country events, ski orienteering, weekend snowshoe and ski lessons, and a once-a-year (February) tour of the Harris Hill Ski Jump (details below), when you can actually try the jump yourself. The club maintains its set of Nordic ski trails and a ski hut on Upper Dummerston Road in Brattleboro, and offers information on ski hut and snow conditions ( 254-4081); for lessons, call ahead for an appointment ( 254-6965). Founded in 1921, BOC is one of the oldest civic outdoor associations in the United States.
THE BOC SKI JUMP COMPETITION
The BOC competition is held on a weekend in mid-February, weather permitting; you can get this year’s dates by calling
254-4565. Tickets are available at the gate and run less than $10 (children get a discount). But come early — it’s now a Pepsi Challenge event, world class, and well advertised. Saturday’s events include form and distance in three jumps; Sunday wraps up with the Longest Standing Jump, where skiers soar as far as their leap will take them. To get to the Harris Hill Ski Jump from Interstate 91, take Exit 2 to Brattleboro, then follow the signs to Cedar Street.
Grafton’s historic village gears up for cross-country skiing at Grafton Ponds, with The Old Tavern at Grafton coordinating arrangements. There is a quaint and friendly ski center with instruction and rentals; trails range from easy to intermediate (see map on next page). There is also a skating rink, and skates as well as snowshoes may be rented. Contact the Grafton Ponds Cross-Country Ski Center,
843-2400, or The Old Tavern ( 843-2231 or 800-843-1801).
Keep in mind that national forest land is open to cross-country skiing. Grout Pond Recreation Area (see map on previous page), near West Wardsboro, has ungroomed areas open to the public. Also, the first six sections of the Catamount Trail wind along the mountain peaks from Harriman Reservoir north to Londonderry; each segment is about the right size for a single day’s ski touring. The Catamount Trail Guidebook gives details of the trails (Catamount Trail Association, PO Box 1235, Burlington, VT 05402;
Outpost Snowmobile Rentals and Tours, c/o Best Western, PO Box 755, West Dover, VT 05356;
464-5112 or 800-451-4289, with day and night trips on national forest trails.
Wheeler Farm,
HCR 63, Box 9, Wilmington, VT 05363; 464-5225, a working farm with guided tours; snowmobiles furnished. Please make reservations.
High Country,
PO Box 1565, Wilmington, VT 05363; 464-2108 or 800-627-7533, provides snowmobile tours and guided trips in the Green Mountain National Forest. Trails start at the log cabin on Route 9, 8_ miles west of Wilmington; reservations are recommended.
Snowmotion Snowmobile,
PO Box 380, West Dover, VT 05356; 464-5504 or 464-3384, offers tours on a private trail system and in the Green Mountain National Forest, day and night safaris, and adventure tours. Reservations recommended.
Greenduck Snowmobile Tours,
Route 9 East, Wilmington, VT 05363; 464-3284 or 800-479-3284. Rides start to the west in Woodford.
SNOWMOBILE RENTALS
William Hance,
Emerald Lake Road, East Dorset, VT 05253; 362-3946.
Stanley Bill’s Sales,
Service & Rentals, Route 30, Townshend, VT 05353; 365-7375.
Many country inns now arrange sleigh rides for their guests, calling on nearby farms. One farm specializing in sleigh rides that sample the delights of snowy days and nights is the Adams Farm (
464-3762) in Wilmington. Three double-traverse sleighs are drawn by Belgian draft horses, and accommodate 15-20 passengers each. The romantic ride includes two 45-minute segments with a narrated tour. There is a stop at a log cabin in the woods, which offers an old-fashioned woodstove, hot chocolate, and a player piano. Advance reservations are suggested for all sleigh rides.
SLEIGH RIDE CONTACT INFORMATION
Adams Farm,
Higley Road, Wilmington, VT 05363; 464-3742.
Valley View Horses & Tack Shop,
Box 48A, Northwest Hill Road, Pownal, VT 05261; 823-4649.
Most ponds and lakes can be skated in December, although it is wise to wait until the ice has been tested for depth by local ice fishermen or by snowmobilers. However, outdoor skating is less pleasant after the first cycle of thaw and storm, when the ice becomes rough and often pocketed with air. Ask locally about safety and public access before going out onto any pond or lake ice.
The wetland known as the Brattleboro Retreat Meadows, north of Brattleboro, freezes over each winter and is dotted with fishing shacks. That’s a good sign that the ice is thick enough to skate on, and sometimes there’s a cleared area next to the road to make it easy.
Rink skating is available at Memorial Park Skating Rink in Brattleboro,
If you are interested in ropes courses, as an individual, family, or group adventure, contact Project Adventure about activities at its Brattleboro location, on the campus of the Austine School for the Deaf. Project Adventure, PO Box 100, Hamilton, MA 01936;
800-468-8898.
As you rise up the slope of the Green Mountain range from Brattleboro to Marlboro, you emerge at Hogback Mountain, where there’s a great view at least a hundred miles long (see On Foot, page 46). You’ll be 12 miles west of Brattleboro and five miles from Wilmington. Here on the ridge, right by Route 9, is a little museum that started as a sort of home collection of stuffed birds. It has now grown to include 80 dioramas and over 500 species of New England birds and mammals. It’s the Southern Vermont Natural History Museum (
464-0048), open daily from Memorial Day (end of May) until October, 9-5. Call for winter hours, which vary. Admission is $2 adults, $1 kids.
In Wilmington, the Adams Farm (15 Higley Hill Road, Wilmington, VT 05363;
464-3762) offers four seasons of farm activities for guests, ranging from exploring bear caves to gathering eggs and milking goats. In winter they have nostalgic sleigh rides to a log cabin or intimate journeys for two in a one-horse open sleigh. Reservations are recommended.
A list of working farms to visit is available from the Windham Country Natural Resources Conservation District,
254-5323. Some of the most unusual are Green Mountain Llamas in Townshend, 365-7581; Berry Hill Farm in Cambridgeport, 869-2369, with sheep, maple syrup, and hops for the homebrewer; a children’s day camp at Maple Ridge Farm in Wilmington, 464-5243, where kids aged six to nine can learn about caring for farm animals and natural resources; Spirit Hill in Halifax, 257-0233, another llama farm, featuring hand spinning of their wool; and a tree farm, Elysian Hills, in Brattleboro; 257-0233. Don’t miss the milking at the Miller Farm in Vernon, 254-2657, which has one of the nation’s first registered Holstein herds. Call ahead for any of these before visiting.
In Grafton, photographer Neal Landy (
843-2703) offers fall foliage photo workshops as a fresh way to "see" nature. He prefers small groups and teaches at levels from novice to advanced amateur, providing take-home workshop notes for reviews and reference.
For real historic character and Art Deco at its best, the Latchis Hotel (50 Main Street,
254-6300, $$-$$$) in the heart of downtown Brattleboro can’t be beat. The building also includes a restaurant and microbrewery. There are deluxe and standard rooms, as well as suites. Restored to much of its 1938 glory, with terrazzo floors, chrome fixtures, and rooms that have a playful, rural charm, the Latchis also has the modern amenities of private baths, cable TV, telephones, and plenty of parking.
A new bed-and-breakfast inn at the very center of town is perfect if you want to enjoy the weekend exuberance of the town. The Artist’s Loft is at 103 Main Street in the Amedeo de Angelis/Union Block, which dates to about 1861. De Angelis was an immigrant Italian shoemaker who owned the building in the 1920s and achieved the American Dream through much hard work; he erected an immense bronze plaque on the building as a memorial to himself. If you stay here, your lodging is in a two-room suite that overlooks the Connecticut River, and homemade breakfast is included (
257-5181, Web site www.sover.net/~artguys, $$).
Three inns stand out for the Brattleboro region, one just up the hill from the downtown area: The Tudor, a bed-and-breakfast inn, at 76 Western Avenue (
257-4983 or 258-2632, $$-$$$), has rich wood paneling, formal gardens, and six fireplaces. Innkeepers John Penford and Joy Wallens-Penford provide relaxed elegance in a quiet retreat, including breakfast and teatime treats.
40 Putney Road (
254-6268 or 800-941-2413, Web site www.putney.net/40putneyrd, $$) is located to match its name, on the main northbound road out of Brattleboro. But it’s as different as could be from the chain motels farther along the road. Here you’ll find a French baronial estate full of antiques, with classically landscaped grounds complete with fountains. Breakfast is included, and you can walk to downtown.
The Meadowlark Inn on Orchard Street (
257-4582 or 800-757-3389, Web site http://homepages.together.net/~lark, $$-$$$) is just west of Exit 2 of Interstate 91; take the second right onto Orchard Street and go 1.5 miles. Between the main house and the 1870 coachhouse, there are four rooms, each with cozy farmhouse character raised a notch in elegance, and modern comforts. Breakfast is served. The view from the hilltop is truly panoramic, and deer sometimes visit the yard.
Farther west on Route 9 is the village of West Brattleboro, where Dalem’s Chalet (16 South Street,
254-4323, $$) can be seen on the hillside to the left a mile from Interstate 91, Exit 2. European hospitality in an alpine setting makes the lodging attractive. Modern amenities and an outdoor pool complement the setting.
Also in West Brattleboro are the West Village Motel (480 Western Avenue,
254-5610, $) and the Molly Stark Motel (Route 9, three miles west of Interstate 91, 254-2440, $-$$).
The Putney Road, also known as Route 5, heads north out of downtown Brattleboro to a strip of convenient shops, grocery stores, restaurants and snack bars, and lodgings for travelers seeking reliable American motel comforts. The Quality Inn (Putney Road,
254-8701, $$) is five miles from the downtown region, near Exit 3 from Interstate 91. It also offers meeting and banquet facilities. There is a sauna, Jacuzzi, and indoor pool, plus the Steak House Restaurant and lounge.
Also on the Putney Road, half a mile south of Exit 3, is the Colonial Motel and Spa (
257-7753 or 800-239-0032, $$), which has an indoor pool and spa plus a restaurant and lounge. There is a Super 8 Motel ( 254-8889 or 800-800-8000, $$) close to Exit 3, next to McDonald’s. This motel has recently been fully refurbished, including complete handicap access.
Set on the crest of a high rolling hill and surrounded by formal gardens, the White House (Route 9,
464-2135 or 800-541-2135, $$-$$$) is a Victorian mansion with turn-of-the-century grandeur, yet a welcoming atmosphere. The Boston Herald called it "one of the 10 most romantic places in the world." There are 23 guest rooms, beautifully furnished with period pieces; nine have fireplaces, and four have large whirlpool tubs — just the thing for relaxing after hiking or skiing the inn’s 45 km of trails. A cross-country ski center on the premises provides instruction and rentals. There is also a 60-foot in-ground pool. The menu features "creative Continental" dishes ranging from baked Brie en croûte to boneless duck stuffed with apples, walnuts, and grapes (for example!).
Wilmington’s other elegant country inn is The Hermitage (Coldbrook Road;
464-3511, $$$$), where 29 rooms in several buildings offer New England elegance at its finest. A hobby of the innkeepers is the game bird farm on the premises, which includes peacocks and black swans. There is also a trout pond, and the cross-country ski center has 50 km of trails, plus instruction and rentals. The dining is gracious and exquisite, incorporating game birds in the menu each evening, as well as an award-winning wine list of over 2,000 labels.
The Nordic Hill Lodge is a relaxed family spot where there’s a hearty country breakfast and an outdoor heated pool, plus fresh popcorn and homemade cookies always available (34 Look Road,
464-5130 or 800-326-5130, $$). Or there’s the homey feel of the Misty Mountain Lodge, a cozy 1803 farmhouse with eight guestrooms, where they serve not just a full breakfast but a full family-style dinner as well, and the host may include you in an evening of song or stories (326 Stowe Hill Road, 464-3961, Web site http://homepages.together.net/~mistymtn, $$). More interested in peace and quiet and being pampered Go for the Whitingham Farm bed & Breakfast, surrounded by 50 acres at the end of the road, and furnished with antiques, oriental rugs, and private baths; ask about a carriage ride after the gourmet breakfast (742 Abbie Morse Road; 368-2620 or 800-310-2010, Web site www.whitinghamfarm.com, $$$-$$$$).
From the center of Wilmington, take Route 100 north for 9.7 miles to the Inn at Mount Snow (
464-3300 or 800-577-SNOW, $$-$$$$), a country bed and breakfast with 14 guestrooms and breathtaking views of Mount Snow.
The resort at Mount Snow offers condominiums and a lakeside lodge, as well as the Grand Summit Resort Hotel (
800-664-6535, Web site www.mountsnow.com, prices range widely). Also close to the slope is the Lodge at Mount Snow, with its lounge, massive fieldstone fireplace and mountain views (Route 100, 464-5112 or 800-451-4289, $$). More intimate is the Austin Hill Inn, also on Route 100, where afternoon wine and cheese is a tradition; ask about the Murder Mystery weekends, too ( 464-5281 or 800-332-RELAX, Web site www.austinhillinn.com, $$-$$$).
The Deerfield Valley Inn is a bed and breakfast on Route 100; many of its rooms have fireplaces and all have private baths (
464-6333 or 800-639-3588; Web site www.deerfieldvalleyinn.com; $$-$$$). For more secluded accommodations, try the Snow Goose Inn (call for directions; 464-3984 or 888-604-7964; Web site www.snowgooseinn.com; $$-$$$). Also popular is the West Dover Inn (including Gregory’s Restaurant), a quietly luxurious country inn with memorable dining (Route 100, 464-5207, Web site www.westdoverinn.com; $$$-$$$$).
MOUNT SNOW LODGING ASSISTANCE:
There are many more lodgings at Mount Snow; for more suggestions, and for lodging packages, get in touch with the Mount Snow Valley Chamber of Commerce at 877-VT-SOUTH (Web site www.visitvermont.com).
Especially suited to skiers is the Weathervane Lodge (Dorr Fitch Road, West Dover, 464-5426 or 800-464-2735, $), which serves breakfast and has 12 rooms. Close to Mount Snow is the Red Cricket Inn (Route 100, 464-8817, $-$$), a family-run lodge with lounge and game room. On Route 9 is the Horizon Inn ( 464-2131, $$), a blend of a well-run motor lodge with a country inn, specializing in customized tours for senior groups, as well as in housing for Marlboro Music Festival attendees and skiers.
Located on the village green behind the courthouse, the Four Columns Inn (
365-7713 or 800-787-6633, $$$-$$$$) offers gracious lodging. There are 15 rooms and suites, some with fireplaces, and a fine restaurant that serves a distinctive blend of European and New American cuisine. The chef here especially favors fine local foods, creating Green Mountain menus that include game birds, rabbit, and veal. There is a romantic, candlelit dining room. Outside, 150 acres of wooded land behind the inn offer hiking trails, and there is a pool for summer swimming.
The Inn at South Newfane (
348-7191, $$-$$$) is reached from Interstate 91 by taking Route 9 east to connect with Route 30 north, going nine miles, then making the right turn by the inn sign. It’s another three miles of scenic drive that includes a covered bridge before you reach South Newfane. By this point you’ve come unexpectedly close to Mount Snow, and the inn encourages guests to take advantage of the resort. There is a private pond for swimming, and the common rooms of the inn encourage informal conviviality in the evenings.
Smaller but full of charm and comfort is the West River Lodge (north of Newfane; call for detailed road directions,
365-7745, $$-$$$), where antique furnishings make the eight guest rooms attractive; breakfasts and dinners are served. Also north of Newfane but on Route 30 is the River Bend Motel ( 365-7952 or 800-599-7952, $-$$), 20 rooms with privacy and moderate rates and a restaurant next door.
When you come to sample the adventures of Jamaica State Park and the West River run, there are two very different choices for nearby lodging. The first is the much-photographed Old Brick Tavern, on the common in Townshend (
365-4527, $$). There are only three bedrooms, but they are comfortable and the tavern is friendly. Breakfast is available. Or, just south of town, take the turn off Route 30 toward Townshend State Forest and go two miles to Redwing Farm (Carol Rees and Joe Scanlon, 365-4656, $$), a working organic produce farm with three cozy bedrooms upstairs in the 19th-century farmhouse. There’s a homemade Continental breakfast.
A third lodging in the area is noted as one of the most romantic and elegant (though also costly): Windham Hill Inn at 311 Lawrence Drive in West Townshend (
874-4080 or 800-944-4080, $$$$). The exquisite accommodations look out over the West River Valley, and the dining is superb. Explore their Web site, www.windhamhill.com, for an extensive virtual tour. Hosts Grigs and Pat Markham have crafted a memorable retreat at their 1825 farmhouse, and the 160 acres around it include a clay tennis court, pool, and the lovely New England rock walls and fields to wander along. There are fireplaces in most rooms, a Jacuzzi, and since your hosts love to hike, they can guide you in selecting activities in the nearby mountains.
Three Mountain Inn is an original 1780s Colonial village inn with a hundred acres to ramble and superb mountain views. Guest rooms are generous in size, and some offer queen-size canopy beds and working fireplaces. Charles and Elaine Murray keep their guests busy and happy, offering a choice of menus in the dining room and pub lounge, a swimming pool, and nearby hiking, biking, and skiing (downhill and cross-country). Room rates may include just the full breakfast, or also dinner. The inn is on Main Street, which is also Route 30 (
The innkeepers of the Swiss Inn, the Donahues, take the seasons and hospitality so deeply to heart that they present their own newsletter of activities. This family-run inn is on Route 11 (
824-3442 or 800-847-9477, e-mail swissinn@sover.net, $$) and has its own Nordic skiing, hiking, and snowshoeing trails; snowshoes are available at the inn. The restaurant menu features predominantly Swiss and German specialties, with treats of cheese and chocolate fondue.
At Frog’s Leap Inn on Route 100 the maple trees are two centuries old, there’s a 52-foot heated pool and a tennis court, and hiking and ski trails wind across the premises. Hosts Kraig and Dorenna Hart love to cook, and their breakfasts show it; they also enjoy gardening, reading, and fishing, all fruitful subjects to share. Arrangements can be made for pets. The Harts formerly worked at the noted Mohonk Mountain House in New York. They are still making renovations at Frog’s Leap; check their Web site for the latest news, www.frogsleapinn.com. (
824-3019 or 877-376-4753, $$$-$$$$).
Take Route 100 a bit farther south, into South Londonderry, and on Route 100 you’ll find the Londonderry Inn, owned by Him and Jean Cavanagh and Esther Fishman since 1981. The 1826 Colonial on nine acres includes a game and billiards room as well as a living room with immense fireplace, a library, and a children’s outdoor play area. You’ll have views of the West River and of Glebe Mountain (
824-5226, Web site www.bestinns.net/usa/vt/london.html, $-$$$, seasonal rates).
800-STRATTON, $$-$$$$) are interesting and extensive, and this is the first place to consider if you are here to ski. Another option is across the street from the lifts, the Birkenhaus ( 297-2000, $-$$), where innkeepers Ina and Jan Dlouhy offer their living room, their library, and 18 guest rooms. If the atmosphere reminds you of a Central European hotel, that’s just what was intended; dining is Continental, and there is also a bar for after-dinner relaxing.
Traditionally, bikers and other guests have gravitated to the Putney Inn (
387-5517 or 800-653-5517, $$-$$$), where even the low red-painted buildings reflect country charm. The inn is located in one of the earliest buildings of the region, with rooms furnished in Queen Anne-style to replicate Colonial warmth. All meals are served, and the village is a short walk away from the Exit 4 location. West Hill Shop, the region’s most vital bike center, is just across the road.
Putney also has some comfortable bed-and-breakfast lodges: Mapleton Farm (
257-5252 or 800-236-5254, $$) has five guest rooms and a two-room suite in an 1803 farmhouse. It is six miles south on Route 5 from Exit 4 of Interstate 91. Hickory Ridge House (Jacquie Walker and Steve Anderson, innkeepers, 387-5709, $$) is just north of the center of Putney, on Hickory Ridge Road. It offers seven guest rooms, with the breakfast pleasures of fresh eggs and homemade jams, jellies, and baked goods. Also north of the village is the Putney Summit ( 387-5806, $$), with guest rooms and, in warm weather, guest cottages, plus a restaurant full of New England character and homemade meals.
John and Linda Maresca and their children welcome guests to the River Mist Bed and Breakfast, an 1880 Queen Anne Victorian with charming antique-furnished guest rooms, a formal parlor, wraparound porches for enjoying the evening and, of course, full breakfasts (the house specialty is the banana pancakes, but there are also New England traditionals). Children are welcome, and the Marescas will gladly help you set up a train trip on the Green Mountain Flyer or a riverboat cruise (7 Burt Street,
463-9023 or 888-463-9023; Web site www.river-mist.com, $$).
843-2231 or 800-843-1801, $$-$$$$) is a poet’s choice of rural elegance and historical richness. Daniel Webster, Oliver Wendell Holmes, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Ralph Waldo Emerson, and Rudyard Kipling are just a few of the noted guests who have stayed here since 1788. Restored by the Windham Foundation in 1965, the Old Tavern is now equipped with modern conveniences like plumbing and heating, but so discreetly that the elegant mood of a previous century is hardly disturbed. There are 35 rooms in the Main Tavern building and the Windham and Homestead cottages. Another six guest houses sleep from eight to 14 people each. Each room and cottage is distinct in furnishing, and all are comfortable and charming. The dining room at the Old Tavern offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, exalting New England cuisine to culinary elegance. Bikes and cross-country skis are available to use on nearby back roads and trails. There is a stable that houses six horses if you care to bring your mount!
Most Vermont campgrounds are open only from mid-May to mid-October, the best weather of the year, and even so, you may well have ice in the water jug! Plan for black flies and mosquitoes at the early end of the season, and expect wide ranges in temperature; even in summer, an occasional frost happens. But the cool breezes drive the bugs away swiftly, and there are few pests to interfere with having a good time.
Don’t judge a campground’s location by its address — or its name! The Brattleboro North KOA (RD2, Box 560, Putney, VT 05346;
254-5908 or 800-562-5909) isn’t in Brattleboro or Putney, but in Dummerston, on Route 5 between the two towns. A gift shop and cottages add to 42 sites, and there’s plenty of room for RV camping too. Hot showers are free, which is one reason this campground has made a hit with hikers and cyclists.
The campground that really is in Brattleboro is Hidden Acres (Route 5, Box 401A, Brattleboro, VT 05301,
254-2724 or 800-254-2098). The 37-acre campground has 55 sites, and the ice cream bar adds to summer pleasure.
368-2418) is between Brattleboro and Wilmington, and it’s a good idea to call or write for directions so you make the right turns. There are great rustic and private tent sites (50 altogether), hayrides on some weekends, and mountain biking both at the campground and at nearby Mt. Snow.
Camperama Family Campground (Depot Road, Townshend, VT 05353,
365-4315) is up Route 30, 17 miles northwest of Brattleboro. The 215 sites are well supported with amenities and games. Not far away is Kenolie Village (Newfane, VT 05345, 365-7671), set in the West River Valley and offering 100 sites, both wooded and open. Kenolie stays open to December 1, longer than most.
There are 34 developed campgrounds at Vermont state parks. The ones in this region are at Fort Dummer State Park (Brattleboro,
254-2610), Jamaica State Park (Jamaica, 874-4600), Molly Stark State Park (Wilmington, 464-5460), and Townshend State Park (Townshend, 365-7500). Townshend and Molly Stark are small, with about 30 sites; the other two have around 60 sites each.
Primitive camping is allowed in most regions of the Green Mountain National Forest. The forest also has established campgrounds, either to help with support for the camping experience or to protect fragile wildlife and plants in the wilderness and alpine regions.
CAMPING TIP:
Only dead and down wood should be used for campfires, and the Forest Service requests that campers practice leaving no signs of their presence when they leave.
Grout Pond is a national forest recreation area near West Wardsboro. Follow Route 100 north from Wilmington to West Wardsboro and turn left (west) on Forest Highway 6. The parking area is well marked. There are nine campsites around the pond, including an all-season cabin, three open-faced shelters, and tent sites, and several of the facilities (picnic area, outhouse, camping) are barrier-free. Four of the sites are accessible only by canoe!
In general, the fine dining in Vermont is at the inns. This section mentions other opportunities. If a town is not listed here, take a look in the Where To Stay listing for possibilities.
The college town feeling of the downtown area means there are lots of coffee shops and bakery/deli options. For fine dining, consider Peter Havens, 32 Elliott Street (
257-3333), elegant cuisine, dinners only. T.J. Buckley’s Uptown Dining ( 257-4922), also on Elliott Street, just past McNeill’s Brewery, seats only a few tables in a tiny former railroad car, and the menu is at the discretion of the chef, but it will be excellent and intriguing. A local favorite for regional fare and heavenly desserts is the Latchis Grille at the Latchis Hotel, 6 Flat Street ( 254-4747), serving lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch.
A stroll down Main Street gives you a choice of ethnic specialties at La Sirena (Mexican,
257-5234) or soups and sandwiches at Carol’s Main Street Café (73 Main Street, 254-8380, closed Sundays). If you are a coffee lover, be sure to stop at Mocha Joe’s Coffeehouse and Market on Main Street, or duck around the corner to the cafés off the Harmony Place parking lot. My own favorite is the Backside Café ( 257-5056), where the blackboard specials provide a yummy lunch, and there are always fresh desserts like Naughty Nancy’s Chocolate Cake or Indian pudding. Open daily for breakfast and lunch, and on Fridays for dinner. You’ll find a combination of bookstore, gallery, and café at 29 High Street in Collected Works & The Café Beyond ( 258-4900, Web site www.bookweb.org).
North of town, the Marina Restaurant on the Putney Road (Route 5) offers an inexpensive menu, fireplace, and gorgeous sunsets over the water. Farther up the Putney Road, skip the chain fast food regulars and duck into Picnic’s (
254-9675), which promises "real food fast" and comes through with barbecued and rotisserie meats, pastas, deli salads, and fried seafood, opening at 7 a.m. on weekends for breakfast. If you explore beyond the downtown area via Route 9 west, when you get to West Brattleboro try Dalem’s Chalet ( 254-4323) for German, Swiss, and Austrian specialties, dinner only ( 254-4323), or the treasure of the area, the Chelsea Royal Diner ( 254-8399), with its famous hearty and sociable breakfasts, across from the state police barracks.
Brattleboro has two microbreweries: one is the Windham Brewery (
254-4747) at the Latchis Grille, 6 Flat Street, brewing "honest ales, porters, and lagers," plus specialty brews to celebrate the seasons. The other is McNeill’s Brewery (90 Elliott Street, 254-2553), serving award-winning beer and adding an atmosphere of games, good food, and family fun.
464-5535) on Route 9 sits on Hogback Mountain and offers a noted 100-mile view. Although the food is middle-of-the road (pancakes are the best bet, and the prime rib dinner buffet is also popular), the view is truly great, and it’s a good place to sit with a hot cup of coffee or cocoa while you warm up to face the wind on the ridge.
Dining in Wilmington is a high point of its inns, and the White House (
464-2135 or 800-541-2135) offers the epitome of romantic candlelight dinging on fine continental cuisine. Other inns also have open dining rooms. Another delightful place is at the Two Tannery Road Restaurant ( 464-2707), close to Mount Snow, serving continental cuisine in a charming 17th-century home that once belonged to Teddy Roosevelt.
But Wilmington also offers entertaining dining, in the form of Poncho’s Wreck Restaurant, south of the light in downtown Wilmington,
464-9320. "Vermont’s only known shipwreck" features Mexican food as well as seafood and live entertainment. The Silo Restaurant (half a mile south of Mount Snow on Route 100, 464-2553) also has entertainment, as well as dancing, a game room, and two large fireplaces, to go with its classic American steak-and-seafood and pasta-and-pizza menu.
For a more delicate touch in the kitchen, sample the bistro cuisine and atmosphere at Julie’s Café on Route 100 in East Dover (
464-2078). The dinner menu changes every two weeks, lunches are unusual, and an espresso bar and luscious desserts complete the picture.
There is a traditional "don’t miss this" dining experience in Putney, but it’s not haute cuisine. It’s the Putney Diner, serving fresh homemade food, three meals a day, seven days a week. Three-egg omelets and Belgian waffles are on the breakfast menu; the lunch-time grill includes tempeh burgers and veggie pockets in addition to the tried-and-true burgers and tuna melt; and dinner platters are hearty meals like turkey and gravy with mashed potatoes, or meatloaf, or fisherman’s catch. There’s even macaroni and cheese. For dessert, there are pies, of course! The diner is on Main Street at the center of the village (
387-5433).
For a memorable outdoor dining experience (warm weather only), stop in at Curtis’
Barbeque (
387-5474) on Route 5, near Interstate 91; Southern barbeque
lunches and dinners are offered Wednesday through Sunday, but call to make sure the weather is
right.
