The Vermont Valley is a scenic pathway up the western side of southern Vermont, centered on a series of winding rivers along Route 7. To the west, massive and majestic, are the Adirondacks of New York State; to the east is the rock-ridged spine of the Green Mountains. In the river valleys there are busy towns with year-round celebrations of human endeavors, from cultural festivals and events to art and craft studios and some of the state’s most history-laden homes and byways. Critical moments of the Revolutionary War touched this region. Later, presidents visited when the resorts were born; Abraham Lincoln’s son resided in a glorious mansion that is now open to visitors.

This is the entryway to the wildest portions of the Green Mountain National Forest. Over 350,000 acres of untamed land with more than 500 miles of trails make this area irresistible to hikers, skiers, mountain bikers, and those who treasure the sight of a herd of white-tailed deer or a family of black bears. Moose browse in the soggy swamps of bogs and beaver ponds; hawks and even eagles circle the crags.

The region is anchored by Bennington in the southwest corner, 12 miles from Massachusetts and even closer to New York. Once centered on its river mills, the town is history-laden, with elegant homes, a striking monument to Vermont’s participation in the Revolutionary War, and craftspeople like the noted Bennington Potters.

You may reach this region from the Brattleboro area, taking Route 9 westward over Hogback Mountain and Mount Olga and passing close to the George Aiken Wilderness, a 5,000-acre untamed plateau of wetlands. The wilderness is named for one of Vermont’s noted senators, who led the effort to expand the National Wilderness Preservation System in the eastern United States. Also close to Route 9 are Prospect Mountain Winter Sports Area (a cross-country skier’s haven) and Woodford State Park.

Traveling north from Bennington are the twin Routes, 7 and 7A. Route 7 is a brisk and sometimes divided highway. It connects Bennington with the city of Rutland, and passes through the shopping mecca of Manchester along the way. Route 7A is called "Historic Route 7A" as it rambles through the picturesque villages and clings closely to the river banks – first Furnace Brook, then the fishing-famous Batten Kill, and at last Otter Creek, Vermont’s longest river entirely within the state. Covered bridges, grand mansions, and spectacular side drives make the route fascinating and worth taking slowly.

Route 30 crosses Route 7 in Manchester; it heads northwest toward the softly rolling Lake Champlain Valley, first meandering through the noted summer resort area around lake St. Catherine. Heading east from Manchester on Route 30 soon connects with Route 11, which in turn rises into the Green Mountains to where Bromley offers both a ski area and a summer activity center. Both Routes 30 and 11 cross the mountain ridge into the Southeastern Gateway region.

Route 9, as it traces the pathway of Revolutionary War soldiers over the southern Green Mountains, is also called the Molly Stark Trail. In 1777, Molly Stark’s husband, General John Stark, traveled back to Brattleboro with his Hessian troops after a heroic victory at the Battle of Bennington. The villages of Searsburg and Woodford are small and spare, befitting their high elevation on the bony ridge of the mountains, but they also stand at the entryway to impressively wild territory. Even if you don’t plan to hike the Long Trail or the Appalachian Trail, pause at the trailhead on Route 9 just west of Woodford. Step far enough along the path to see how carefully this well-used trail has been designed to carry hikers into the Green Mountains, without stealing too much from the very wildness that draws visitors.

The descent into Bennington leads past numerous inns and restaurants and into the center of town. A good first stop is the Chamber of Commerce, just north of town on Route 7A (alias North Street and Veterans Memorial Drive) next to a small park; pick up maps and walking tour brochures to better explore this town. The town has a double nature: a business center in the valley of the Walloomsac River, and a preserved historic district to the west where the land rises into Old Bennington. The roads can be confusing, and congested in summer and foliage season, so detailed maps are a nice advantage. Take note of the Bennington Brewers and the Blue Benn Diner on Route 9, so you can find them quickly later in the day. Armed with your maps, start south on Route 9 and make the first left onto County Street for a visit to the Bennington Potters Yard, famous for early American stoneware and also home to today’s fine designers. You’ll see early work of the potters at the Bennington Museum (see below).

When you return to Route 7A, keep going south (a left turn) and return to the center of town and Route 9. Go to the Old Bennington hill and find a place to park (this can take some doing on busy summer days!). It is worthwhile walking from Route 9 toward the 306-foot-high battle monument that dominates this part of town. The road, called Monument Avenue, is easy to find. It is lined by spacious homes, some dated 1781, 1790, and 1821. At the top of the hill, in a small park, is the blue limestone spire that resembles a small version of the Washington Monument, three-fifths its size. This is the Bennington Battle Monument, in honor of the battle fought here on August 16, 1777. The British were on their way to Bennington to try to capture supplies and ammunition, but instead the armed Vermonters stopped them in North Hoosick, New York, for a victory that helped move the Revolutionary War to a successful conclusion. From mid-April to the end of October, you can climb the monument for a three-state view and a survey of the river valley; there is also an elevator. It’s open daily. For information,  447-0550.

Walk back down Monument Avenue and pause at its foot to explore the Old First Church, "Vermont’s Colonial Shrine," organized in 1762. New England’s most famous poet, Robert Frost, is buried here, along with five Vermont governors and many of the region’s pioneers. Across the road is the tumbledown Walloomsac Inn, dating to 1796, once a stage stop for such distinguished travelers as James Madison and Thomas Jefferson. The Joseph Cerniglia Winery is just around the corner and a mile or so down Route 9. If you continue west on Route 9, you’ll come to the Oldcastle at Bennington Center for the Arts, home of the noted Oldcastle Theatre Company (mid-April through October, 447-0564). Three miles west of Bennington is the Hemmings’ famous Sunoco station and the home of Hemmings Motor News, the bible of old car collectors and lovers; open weekdays year-round ( 447-3101).

Go back to the east-west passage of West Main Street and head westward down the hill to visit the Bennington Museum ( 447-1571). Open year-round, its collections include regional history, glass, pottery, furniture, and the largest public collection of the folk-art paintings of Grandma Moses. These paintings are not just an art treasure; they give a joyful picture of village and rural life that satisfies any lover of New England nostalgia.

The downtown district is a brisk walk away, and the walking tour brochures will lead you along the busy riverfront. Or, if you’re ready now to go on to North Bennington, drive back up the hill, turn right up Monument Drive, circle the monument, and turn onto Walloomsac Road, making an almost immediate right onto Fairview Street and another onto Silk Road. You are now passing through a covered bridge and arriving at Route 67A, with Bennington College just ahead.

Head left on Route 67A for the region’s other historical gem, the Park-McCullough House. This 35-room French Empire-style mansion was completed in 1865 and was home to two Vermont governors before becoming a public historic site in 1964. Not only are the rooms and grounds elegant and gracious, but Bennington’s cultural life, especially concerts, revolves here in the summertime, and there are special programs like croquet and a Victorian Christmas (and yes, you can have a wedding here!). Plan to visit during the warm weather, from late May to late October, or call ahead ( 442-5441) for special events.

North Bennington’s historic mill on Water Street houses No B.I.A.S. ( 447-7754), a gallery and forum for art works in all media. The closeness of Bennington College also encourages small restaurants to bloom here.

Follow the signs back to Route 7A and start north to reach the villages of Shaftsbury and North Shaftsbury. The very active historical society here offers a self-guided tour of houses, as well as a drive-it-yourself route to the many cemeteries. This is the town where the oldest Vermont Baptist Society had its meetinghouse. The Greek Revival-style Baptist church is now the historical society’s home, open from June to mid-October on Tuesday afternoons. Look for the turreted steeple of the building, on Route 7A in Center Shaftsbury.

Route 7A leads north from Shaftsbury to Arlington, a small picturesque village noted for its country inns and covered bridges. This is also where the Batten Kill, the region’s most famous trout stream, reaches the north-south route and begins to keep company with travelers. Author Dorothy Canfield Fisher wrote many of her novels here in the 1950s and left the state a legacy of children’s literature. Even more closely associated with Arlington was artist Norman Rockwell, creator of years of Saturday Evening Post magazine covers; a permanent exhibit of his paintings can be seen at the Arlington Gallery in the center of town ( 375-6424; open year-round). Another collection to visit is the Dr. George A. Russell Collection of Vermontiana (open Tuesdays,  375-6307), also in the village, behind the Martha Canfield Public Library.

Arlington could practically fill a Vermont history book by itself. Chartered in the name of George III in 1761, it was part of the struggle to decide whether Vermont would be part of New Hampshire or New York or independent, as it soon declared itself. The Green Mountain Boys fought in the Revolutionary War near here; the state’s first governor, Thomas Chittenden, had his office in Arlington in 1778. Taverns, stage stops, and country inns multiplied, and the first gristmill in Vermont was built here by Remember Baker. The town also had the state’s first fulling mill (for preshrinking and thickening woolen cloth), furnace and foundry, rope factory, chair factory, and marble quarry! Even the state’s first medical school was here in 1790, in a brick house that still stands on Route 7A. Later, Daniel Webster honored the town with one of his famous orations: the Kelley Stand speech. A marker honoring the day is close to where, in 1909, James P. Taylor come up with the idea of a "footpath in the wilderness" that would become the Long Trail, the nation’s first long-distance hiking trail. You can take the Kelley Stand Road eastward into the Green Mountain National Forest and connect with the trail, which runs together with the Appalachian Trail all the way north through this region. In memory of so much historical significance, Arlington hosts an annual festival on Father’s Day weekend called Ethan Allen Days.

Don’t miss the detour into East Arlington, where the Roaring Brook cascades down a rocky channel and passes by a cluster of gracious shops and galleries called Candle Mill Village. This is where Remember Baker’s gristmill stood; the rushing waters are convincing that the mill belonged here! East Arlington also is the start of the Kelley Stand Road if you want to head east into the forest.

Back on Route 7A, you’ll soon pass Batten Kill Canoe, a center of water-oriented activity. Watch for local fly-fishers, too; there’s a local business in tying the intricate custom-designed flies for the sport.

The pleasant riverside drive is quiet and scenic. But the classic resort area of Manchester is just ahead. Gracious inns and comfortable bed-and-breakfast homes line the roadside. Watch on the left for the Equinox Skyline Drive (as they say in Vermont, "You can’t miss it"). It ascends to the top of the 3,816-foot peak, a five-mile climb by car. During foliage season there’s a waiting line at the gate, but the view is still worth it, especially if you take the 20-minute ramble from the summit to the lookout; there are hiking trails, too.

When you return to Route 7A, you are only minutes away from Hildene, the summer home of Abraham Lincoln’s oldest son, Robert Todd Lincoln. One of the charming aspects of this mansion is that the approach road still winds through thick woodlands, screening it so thoroughly from the modern highway that you enter a pocket of time still moored to the turn of the century. You can tour the 24-room mansion (by reservation;  362-1788) from mid-May through October, and there is also a charming Christmas celebration. The estate has 412 acres of formal gardens and leafy woods with nature trails; cross-country skiers appreciate the trails once snow arrives.

Manchester was a popular resort for the nation’s wealthy and powerful in the mid- and late 1800s, when the grand hotel called the Equinox (like the steep and impressive mountain towering over it) thrived. Recently painstakingly restored, the hotel epitomizes luxury vacationing in the Green Mountains. As you drive northward on Route 7A, the Equinox is on your left, and welcomes you to the modern-day resort atmosphere of the town. Outlet stores, designer fashion boutiques, restaurants, and sports shops line the road. On the byways, inns abound; there are also several golf courses and parks.

Although you’ll probably lose track of the Batten Kill while you navigate this busy town, one of Manchester’s most noted businesses, The Orvis Company, grew from the desires of the area’s fishing and outdoors enthusiasts. The company, created and staffed by devoted hunters and anglers, has its factory and a large store at the southern edge of Manchester, with a second store in town. Many local and state-wide guides, outfitters, and lodges affiliate with Orvis.

Also in Manchester is the American Museum of Fly Fishing ( 362-3300), right next door to the Equinox. Open year-round, but closed on winter weekends, the museum displays gear and memorabilia, including those of anglers Cornelia "Fly Rod" Crosby and innovative flytier Carrie Stevens.

Once you travel north of the Equinox, you are in shoppers’ paradise (and sometimes traffic purgatory, especially during foliage season). From ice cream shops and bakeries to fine dining, from designer fashions to home furnishings, and from summer sports to snow specialties, Manchester has it all – or at least it seems like it! Most of the shops cluster on Route 7A and on Routes 11 and 30, which come down as a single highway from the high mountains to the east. Take the route eastward some six miles and the two highways divide; Route 11 goes on to Bromley, a family-oriented ski resort with plenty of summertime activities like motorized go-carts and an alpine slide. Hiking and riding the scenic Sun Chairlift (with a five-state view from the observation tower!) are also snow-free activities here, especially during the colorful fall foliage weeks. Route 30 takes you to Stratton, the mountain resort mentioned earlier in the Southeastern Gateway section. Spectacular hiking trails and cross-country ski routes branch off both roads, and wilderness is barely a back road away.

Manchester’s arts community has always been active, and the region is home to the Southern Vermont Art Center ( 362-1405, on West Road not far outside the village). Art for the light-hearted is a good description of the Gremlin Animation Gallery at 646 Richville Road in Manchester Center, with its collection of Disney, Warner Bros., and Charles Shultz animation art ( 362-4766, Web site www.thegremlin.com).

There is an award-winning theater festival that Manchester visitors often come to see, in nearby Dorset, up the westward reach of Route 30. The Dorset Theatre Festival is a summer experience ( 867-5777), but tickets can be reserved by calling ahead during other seasons also ( 867-2223 before May 31).

Manchester’s Chamber of Commerce and information kiosk are both at the north end of town, on Route 7A; once you pass them, you are headed up a last stretch of "historic" highway and merging with the busy thoroughfare of Route 7 itself. You’ll enter East Dorset, which was once the home of Alcoholics Anonymous cofounder Bill Wilson. The Wilson House ( 362-5524) is still a welcoming center. After East Dorset, you’ll pass through the small villages of Danby, Wallingford, and Clarendon. Route 7 is still parallel to the Long Trail/Appalachian Trail, and the rise of mountains to the east is both wild and inviting. Wallingford is especially worth a visit, for the tree-canopied back roads and old cemeteries; the Otter Creek winds around the town.

Taking Route 140 east leads to East Wallingford, where Route 103 continues farther east to Healdville; this is the home of Crowley Cheese, the state’s oldest cheese factory, both a national historic site and a tasty place to visit. To see the cheese being made, be sure to arrive in the morning. Call ahead to double-check the schedule ( 259-2340).

From Route 7, the Green Mountain National Forest attractions of Mount Tabor, the Big Branch Wilderness, and Peru Peak Wilderness are close by. Side trips along the scenic smaller routes can include a trip over Route 11 to Peru, with its isolated and quiet single street and old homes; or from Route 7B as it leads north of Wallingford to Pierces Corner, where you can turn southeast (right) onto Route 103 to reach East Clarendon, with its covered bridge. There’s also a suspension bridge over Clarendon Gorge, which you can reach by walking a tenth of a mile south on the Long Trail from the trail’s parking area on Route 103.

As Route 7 continues north, the busy city of Rutland is just ahead, a temporary but insistent change from rural travel to urban energy.

Walking tours of Bennington will give you a feel for the town’s history. There are also pleasant trails on Mount Anthony, just west of town. But the real adventures are to the east, where hiking trails connect with old woods roads and create an interesting network with the Long Trail (which is also the Appalachian Trail here and throughout this region). Barely a mile out of town, the Green Mountain Forest begins. Use the Green Mountain Club’s Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont for details of these hikes; if you plan to hike the Long Trail for any distance, the Green Mountain Club also has a Guidebook to the Long Trail, complete with large map.

One walk begins in town: The comfortable hike to the 2,857-foot summit of Bald Mountain is one of the oldest continuously maintained trails in the area, and has good views of the region along the way, then wide interstate views near the top. Check your town map and find Branch Street in the northeast corner, which crosses Route 9 (here called East Main Street). Head north to County Street and bear sharply right, crossing the Roaring Branch Brook before reaching the start of the trail. Some parking is available. The trail goes parallel to the power line up an old woods road and crosses a wider power right-of-way with sweeping views north and south. It soon begins to climb, for a total of four miles to the ridgeline (where it meets the West Ridge Trail) and then another tenth of a mile to the summit. If you’re ready for a longer expedition, keep going past the summit to the spring at Bear Wallow, and descend to Route 9, about four miles east of town. You are then only 1.2 miles from the Long Trail.

For an ambitious ramble along old town roads, woods roads, and even a stage road, try the Dunville Hollow Trail. It’s reached by heading out Route 9 eastward until you’re a mile east of the Route 7 intersection to find Burgess Road, which leads about two miles uphill to a jeep road and then another 1.3 miles to the trailhead. This trail winds through what were once settled areas, and can connect you again with Route 9 about five miles from Bennington, or else continue on the Old Stage Road Trail to the remains of the tiny village (one book calls it a hamlet!) of Heartwellville.

Starting once again on Route 9 and heading east from Bennington, this time for 11 miles, will take you to Woodford State Park. The two hiking trails here also include nature trails and a picnic area, and one of the trails winds around Adams Reservoir for a relaxing meander.

Just past Woodford State Park is a US Forest Road, labeled FR74 (look for the brown sign), that is the best access for the George Aiken Wilderness. This primitive wetlands area is a treasure of wildlife, harboring deer, beaver, moose, and black bear. The bears are shy and you’re not likely to see them (but if you do, always stay well clear of a bear with cubs!); however, you may spot their "scat," tarry and dark with plenty of undigested seeds. Moose scat is in mounds of fat, often golden-brown pellets. Moose browse in the wetlands, like beaver ponds. Do not approach a moose! They are unpredictable. But a browsing moose will often stay still and allow you to get good photos. One more treat from the beaver ponds is the fine trout fishing in this wilderness. Note that the forest trails actually go around the edges of this wilderness, but hikers are welcome to bushwhack through, with compass and map. It’s a small enough area that getting truly lost isn’t likely.

Be sure to wear boots that will handle wet soil and swampy regions, and pack bug dope; spring and summer are fierce mosquito and black fly seasons here. Also carry your own drinking water; although the brooks and ponds look lovely and are great for fish, beaver water is notorious for the presence of parasites, especially Giardia, which gives nasty intestinal symptoms for as long as six weeks.

As you head north from Bennington on Route 7A, it’s worth pausing near the historic village of Shaftsbury to explore a lovely combination nature and hiking trail in Shaftsbury State Park. This park also has a picnic shelter and pleasant sandy beach for summer swimming.

Continuing north on 7A you’ll come to Arlington, where the Kelley Stand Road (Route 313) leads eastward into the Green Mountain Forest and crosses the Long Trail, which parallels Route 7 about six miles distant. From Route 7, take the Kelley Stand Road 12 miles to the Grout Pond access road and enjoy over 12 miles of blazed year-round trails maintained by the Forest Service, including a loop hike around the 70-acre pond and trails that connect over to Somerset Reservoir (see Southeastern Gateway section). Evidence of nearby Indian camps suggest this valley was used by Native Americans traveling through. Today, there are shelters and picnic sites, mostly on the northeast side of the pond.

Just a tad closer to Route 7, only 7_ miles from Arlington, is one entrance into the Lye Brook Wilderness. This 15,680-acre wilderness was heavily logged a century ago, when charcoal kilns were part of the Vermont industrial landscape. Remnants of the kilns, and of the railroad that carried away the charcoal, can still be found. Beaver ponds, meadows, and an area called "The Burning," which was struck by lightning and blazed with flame a century ago, make the area fascinating. There are only two major trails, the Branch Road Trail cutting north and the Lye Brook Trail at right angles to it; off-trail exploring is encouraged by the Forest Service. Wildlife includes deer, black bears, and – a special treat – wild turkeys. Because the Green Mountain Club notes that this wilderness area is becoming overused, keep your visit short and head on to the others in this region.

The Forest Service works with this definition: "An area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled [uncontrolled] by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain." Wilderness areas are therefore designated as primitive use only (no motorized or mechanical equipment), with a group limit of 10 people to minimize impact on the resource. You must pack out everything you bring in and, as an extra considerate touch, wear clothing of muted colors to avoid distracting others from the wilderness (except during hunting season, when of course you need to wear blaze orange!). Camping is permitted, but only if you plan to leave no sign of your visit behind.

When Route 7 leaves Manchester on its way north, it heads through East and then North Dorset and, just before reaching Danby, reaches the Green Mountain National Forest. Travel another 500 feet north past the national forest sign and take the right-hand turn, proceeding less than half a mile to a trailhead parking lot on the left. This is the start of trails to Griffith Lake and Baker Peak. The Lake Trail is marked with blue blazes, and reaches a crossing of the McGinn Brook at two miles. Take the trail on the right another 1_ miles for Griffith Lake, where there’s a shelter at the far end and a summer caretaker to help protect wildlife and plant resources. If you take the left trail at the McGinn Brook crossing, you’ll be headed up a one-mile challenge to Baker Peak, which has great views of the Otter Creek Valley and mountains to the north. For a variation, from Griffith Lake head north on the Appalachian/Long Trail (white blazes) for 1.8 miles and then meet the Baker Peak Trail to come back down to the parking lot. Figure at least five hours to finish this loop.

There are two more Congressionally designated wilderness areas in this region, Peru Peak and Branch Brook. Both are within the White Rocks National Recreation Area (NRA), accessed primarily from Peru to the south, and Wallingford to the north. The Forest Service has done an outstanding job of creating access to this mountainous region without turning it into a tame place at all. Hiking ranges from easy rambles to challenging peak and ridgeline hikes. Although you may see more people on the main trails than you really want to in midsummer and during peak foliage viewing, you can always get away from these sections and head out into the wilder woods. Off-trail exploration is encouraged by the Forest Service, although with the warning that you need to know your own skills and limits. You are really on your own, especially in wilderness segments.

At the northwestern corner of White Rocks National Recreational Area, the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail reach Little Rock Pond, where there are two overnight shelters. Along the stretch of trail north of the pond, you might spot old bricks, stone foundations, or even glass, ceramic, or iron remnants from long-gone residents. Some time in the 1880s, a mill village called Aldrichville stood here. It lasted for about 20 years, divided into French- and English-speaking segments. Researchers and summertime teenagers at "Relics and Ruins" camp sessions have excavated many of the half-buried traces of daily life of a century past, and some are on display at the US Forest Service office in Rutland (231 Main Street,  747-6765). You may see some of the investigating crew as you hike by. If you see artifacts that you think mark an unknown site, let the forest archaeologist know, or notify the state archaeologist at the Division for Historic Preservation ( 828-3226).

Mount Tabor, 17 miles north of Manchester, stands in the southeastern corner of the White Rocks NRA. It is surrounded by verdant wetlands where beaver and moose thrive; be sure to keep your distance from grazing moose! To the east of Mount Tabor is the Peru Peak Wilderness, neatly sliced by the Appalachian and Long Trails as they ramble northward together here. These two major hiking trails head next into the Branch Brook Wilderness. The rest of the recreation area has excellent access via trails and woods roads. The forest here is probably the third or fourth to rise from this soil. Logging, farming, and the 1800s trade of charcoal burning all harvested the trees. Once there were 1.6 million sheep grazing in these hills and valleys! Signs of these occupations, as well as of Native American travels across the valleys, make hiking here not only a journey into the forests, but into the past as well. There’s an old sawmill village, signs of past forest fires, abandoned farms and cellarholes, and even an old mine with tunnels. Beware of mine shafts at the Homer Stone Brook section of the area, at its northwest corner. Wildlife abounds, from bears to bullfrogs, including some recently released pine martens, members of the weasel family. The Mt. Tabor and Utley Brooks in this region have gravel bottoms that encourage the return of North Atlantic salmon to the adjoining West River Basin.

A good basic map of this area is available from the Manchester Ranger District, Routes 11 and 30, RR1, Box 1940, Manchester Center, VT 05255 ( 362-2307); ask for the White Rocks information. The Forest Service especially recommends the following trails for day hikes. Off Route 1, the Lake Trail to Baker Peak Trail (moderate to difficult); parking on FR21 at the southern edge of the area and hiking the Appalachian/Long Trail to Styles Peak (short but difficult); and taking the Green Mountain Trail along the western edge of the Branch Brook Wilderness, reached from FR10 (moderate to difficult). The wetlands trails are easier walking and are especially rich in bird life – but be sure to wear those waterproof boots! And from May through August, insect repellent is a must. The Green Mountain Club suggests waiting until the end of May, to avoid damaging the muddy trails and fragile plantlife during this wettest period.

For a close look at the local phenomenon called the Ice Beds, which are 10 to 20° cooler than the surrounding area, there’s a hike that starts from the Wallingford area, north of White Rocks. From Route 7 in Wallingford, take Route 140 east and drive just over three miles to the White Rocks Picnic Area, your parking trailhead. Follow blue blazes for 1.2 miles southeast until you reach the Appalachian/Long Trail (AT/LT), enjoying Bully Brook waterfall along the way. Hike the AT/LT (white blazes) for 0.3 mile to the pile of rocks on your right (west), and turn onto the blue-blazed trail. This is steep and rocky and leads to an overlook, by a final switchback trail that reaches a breathtaking vista of White Rocks. After you’ve caught your breath, continue on the Ice Beds Trail from the overlook over the embankment and reach the base of White Rocks, which is the area known as the Ice Beds. Anyone got a thermometer This is a great treat on a hot, sticky summer day!

Now that we’ve covered the wild and woolly east side of Route 7, let’s backtrack to Manchester and its shopping highway. Manchester itself rests against the foot of Mount Equinox, another site where trail origins date back into the previous century. These are vista-oriented trails: Mount Equinox is 3,825 feet at the peak, Little Equinox is 3,315, and the Burr and Burton/Blue Trail takes you up there from Seminary Avenue in Manchester.

Check the Green Mountain Club Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont for variations on this three-mile route. There are other trails around, and on Mount Equinox; you can pick up a detailed map at the front desk of the Equinox Hotel. The map comes from the Equinox Preservation Trust, which seeks volunteers for trail maintenance and support for this alpine ecosystem area; if you’d like to help, contact the Friends of EPT ( 362-4700, ext. 895).

If you take Route 30 northwest from Manchester, there’s a less heavily traveled refuge about 10 miles up the road – the Merck Forest, more than 2,600 acres of abandoned farmland, now devoted to forestry, education, and recreation. More than 26 miles of old woods roads and trails criss-cross the forest. You can get a map at the parking area, reached by leaving Route 30 in East Rupert for the rise of Route 315 and watching for the gravel road on the left at the Merck Forest sign. There’s a barn and museum, and two self-guiding nature trails begin at the upper parking area.

Farther up Route 30, almost to the New York State border, is Lake St. Catherine. This scenic lake is surrounded by summer cottages, and the Lake St. Catherine State Park ( 287-9185) lies on its east side. Sandy beaches and nature trails make for pleasant and relaxing walking, especially for younger family groups.

If you’re looking for the simplicity of letting someone else plan your route, enrich your travels with natural history, or even carry the food and gear (on the back of a mild-mannered llama), consider the advantages offered by Walking Tours of Southern Vermont ( 375-1141 or 800-5-VT-WALK). Based in Arlington, this touring group offers special itineraries full of wildflowers and waterfalls, planning daily strolls of four to seven miles for beginners, and up to nine miles a day for moderate rambles. Tours include the Merck Forest, the Appalachian Trail, and the Batten Kill; extras that make the trip even sweeter include inn-to-inn planning, fine cuisine, and thoughtful discussions of myths and dreams in a romantic landscape.

There’s a full-service equestrian facility at Valley View Horses & Tack Shop ( 823-4649), in Pownal, nine miles south of Bennington. Miles of trails surround the farm, and guides offer trail rides seven days a week. Pony rides for children, boarding stables for horse owners, and a well-equipped Western tack shop add to the business.

The elegance of Manchester Village fits perfectly with a horse and carriage, and Vermont Carriage Tours ( 447-1769) has a top-hatted driver in front of the Equinox in all pleasant weather. Weddings, anniversaries, hayrides, and picnics can also be planned into the excursions.

In Danby, Mountain View Ranch offers winter trail rides through woods and farmland, and also through the Danby Marble Quarry. Rides are Monday through Thursday, 9 to 4; reservations are required ( 293-5837). Mountain View horses are very gentle, and riders are given time to get acquainted with them. Basic instructions are given to all guests, and the horses respond well to beginners and expert riders alike. Letitia and John Sisters are the hosts of the ranch. (Why no rides on weekends The horses are giving sleigh rides at Stratton Mountain Resort then.)

In East Dorset, the Harold Beebe Farm hosts part of the Vermont Summer Festival of equestrian events; get in touch with them at  496-4878.

Probably the most delightful biking route in this region has already been mapped out by John Freidin in his book, 25 Bicycle Tours in Vermont. There is the gently rolling terrain of Arlington and North Bennington, pedaling along Routes 313 and 67, enjoying a covered bridge, the rustic beauty of farms and old homes and even an old (but closed) 1784 tavern. Freidin’s route is designed to cross into New York State and wind along the Batten Kill, the region’s favorite trout stream. An interesting extension, although with some hillier terrain, is to bike over to East Arlington and enjoy the scenic waterways. Don’t let the map lure you farther east onto the Kelly Stand Road – cars have taken over at high speed here.

From Arlington to Manchester, bike along the Batten Kill on the back roads that connect with various names: Tory Lane and the Depot Road in Arlington, then the River Road as you approach Manchester. Take time out to savor the river and watch the anglers; this is sacred ground for fly-fishing.

Another well-known road biking loop is the one that connects Middletown Springs and Pawlet, up near Lake St. Catherine. It’s about 30 miles of rolling, scenic farmland, amazingly untouched considering how close it is to Rutland and Manchester. If you use John Freidin’s route, make sure you include the short extension down into the village of Pawlet; there’s a spectacular gorge beneath Mach’s General Store, a friendly restaurant in the old station, and a collection of crafts studios and galleries.

Mountain bikers can profit from a stop at any of the three bike shops in Bennington, especially the Cutting Edge, 160 Benmont Avenue ( 442-8664). The staff at these stores are often just back from their own exploring of the trails and back roads. They’ll point you toward Prospect Mountain ( 442-2575), which in winter disguises itself as a cross-country ski touring center, but is a great mountain-biking region. Local stores also stock winter biking gear like tires with studs or chains. Don’t let a little snow stop you!

At present, mountain biking is not allowed on trails in the Green Mountain National Forest, because it takes such a toll in terms of erosion. Only the forest roads, like FR10 in the White Rocks National Recreation Area northeast of Manchester, are legitimate mountain bike terrain. However, the Forest Service has been listening to bikers’ requests and intends to include the activity in its next regional plan. Stop at the ranger station in Manchester Center for an update; the forest supervisors hope that mountain biking clubs will get involved on a local basis to establish and maintain trails, much as snowmobilers have already done.

Meanwhile, ski areas, where trail maintenance is already in place, have opened a number of trails for mountain biking. Bromley in Manchester Center ( 824-5522) opens its trails in summer for mountain biking, although it doesn’t offer lift access. Most cross-country ski resorts (especially when country inns have their own trail networks) are open to the sport. And if you’re willing to use standard (but steep) roads for a challenge to your upward mobility, explore Route 315 between East Rupert and West Rupert, the back roads around Peru (up Route 30 to the east), and the hilly byways of Sandgate, reached by heading to West Arlington and taking the turn northward.

Suggestions for more back-road and mountainside biking and touring can also be found at Battenkill Sports ( 362-2734) in Manchester, where Route 11 meets the elevated highway stretch of Route 7. Just follow Route 11 out of the center of Manchester and it will be on the right. Ask here for directions to the Delaware and Hudson Railroad Trail, near Dorset, a good mountain biking route. Or head all the way north to Danby, where Otter Creek Cycles ( 293-6222) is on the village’s Main Street.

This region of Vermont has plenty of small rivers and ponds for paddling and angling. But the most striking assets are the Batten Kill and Otter Creek, both with long stretches for paddling; the Batten Kill is especially noted for its trout. In fact, the Orvis Company ( 800-548-9548 for orders) in Manchester Center has been designing and building quality fly rods for 138 years. Orvis is also a hunting specialist; the company offers shooting schools at its Battenkill Farm, as well as fishing schools ( 800-235-9763 for information). It also provides private and group lessons in casting, on the river and at Equinox Pond ( 800-362-3750).

Starting in Bennington, a quick look at local rivers shows the Hoosic cutting across the southwestern corner of the region and a handful of smaller streams edging out of town. The Walloomsac River is Bennington’s center, source of the power that once ran its mills. It’s still very paddleable; a nice flatwater run. See the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) River Guide to New Hampshire and Vermont for details of riffles and dams.

Most serious paddlers are going to head north to Manchester and enjoy the Batten Kill as it heads south to Arlington, or even West Arlington, where the river enters New York State. From Manchester to Arlington is 10_ miles of moderate current, with only two risky spots noted in the River Guide. Then there’s another seven miles of Batten Kill before it leaves the state to the west. This is one of those easygoing rivers where in summer you can actually learn the terrain on your own, with the River Guide as assistant. However, if you are trying the Batten Kill for the first time during high water, be prudent and run it with a friend who’s well acquainted with the flow.

For a professional introduction to the river’s vagaries, plus some worthwhile enrichment in terms of fishing and natural history, BattenKill Canoe Ltd. ( 362-2800 or 800-421-5268, e-mail info@battenkill.com) on Route 7A in Arlington is the region’s acknowledged expert. The company offers guided and interpreted day trips as well as multi-day inn-to-inn samplers. Walking rambles are also available. More extensive vacations are also preplanned for visitors. This is also the place to rent your equipment (or try a demo) if you’re on your own. Canoes, paddles, lifejackets, and waterproof drybags are included with each rental, and a shuttle van makes it easy to get to and from the river.

For a special water adventure, explore the Tinmouth Channel Wildlife Management Area, reached by following Route 140 from its intersection with Route 7 in Wallingford. The area includes 1,148 acres of protected land along the Tinmouth Channel, which is a meandering section of the upper Clarendon River. Canoeists put in at the north end. Take Route 140 to Tinmouth and turn north; after one more mile, bear right as the paved road goes left. Stay with the dirt road, which is North End Road, and at 2_ miles it curves to the right. Another half-mile or so brings you to the bridge over the Clarendon River and the beginning of the Tinmouth Channel. You’ll paddle through a shrubby wetland of swamp alders, willows, and buttonbrush, edged by cedar swamp and then softwood forests of white pine and hemlock. There are brown trout and brook trout underneath you; the wetlands around you shelter beavers, deer, wild turkeys, ruffed grouse (locally called partridges), woodcock, and ducks. Bobcats hunt here, although you’re not likely to see them; watch for pawprints and scat if you’re on land at all. Because the best access to this wild land is by water, there’s a lot of privacy and quiet. Slather the insect repellent over you and settle quietly in one spot and wait for the birds, especially at dusk or dawn.

Flatwater boating in this region is a treat on the wide expanse of Lake St. Catherine (superb bass fishing as well as some nice trout), at the northwest corner of the Lake Champlain Valley. On Route 7 in North Dorset is the islanded gem of Emerald Lake Pond, where you can rent paddleboats. Another nice spot is Hapgood Pond, part of the Green Mountain National Forest recreation area. From Manchester, take Route 11 east to Peru and turn north; there is good signage for the pond. Trout is stocked at Hapgood, there’s a boat launch, and swimmers benefit from a sandy beach (although the water is shallow near the beach). To the east of Bennington, reached from Route 9, is Woodford State Park, which has canoes and boats for rent.

When you want to get serious about fishing, the Batten Kill is the river for native brook trout and brown trout. Fishing guide Chuck Kashner ( 800-682-0103, Pawlet) is an Orvis-endorsed guide who specializes in the Batten Kill, as well as the Mettawee and the Otter Creek, farther north. Major hatches on the rivers vary by month, and there’s good fishing from May to October.

Battenkill Anglers ( 362-3184) is another full-service outfitter that also offers a fly-fishing school with on-stream instruction, private and group lessons, and fly-fishing adventure vacations that include lodging, from exquisite inns to tent camping. Expect to study both the art and the science (entomology, stream ecology, and trout behavior). The schooling is sponsored by noted fly rod maker Thomas & Thomas.

In addition to Hapgood Pond (see Canoeing, above), the beaches at Lake St. Catherine are way above average in both beauty and swimming pleasure (although crowded on hot summer weekends). Bennington residents enjoy swimming at Lake Paran, in North Bennington.

Downhill Skiing

Bromley is the only major ski area in New England with southern exposure, so its nickname is "Sunny Mountain" – an outlook reflected in the family-friendly atmosphere of the resort. The resort is confusingly located, as it is associated with three town names: Bromley is the name that’s extinct, Peru is the town on the slope of Bromley where the resort is actually located, and much of its mail goes through nearby Manchester Center! Reach the resort from Manchester by heading east on Route 11 for 10 miles; if you’re coming from the other side of the state, say up Interstate 91, you’ll cross the ridge of the Green Mountains on Route 11 westbound to get there, a short spectacular drive past Londonderry.

Bromley's 39 ski trails shoot down the slope across 300 acres; more difficult trails are toward the east side of the mountain. The vertical drop is 1,334 feet, with a summit elevation of 3,284. The resort has 84 snow-making coverage and nine lifts, including a quad and five doubles. The usual season is mid-November to mid-April, although sunny spring weather can shorten the season. For conditions,  824-5522; e-mail bromley@sover.net.

Nursery care is available for ages six weeks and up, and kids’ activities start at age three years. Bromley also offers special teen programs and prices, and its slopeside lodging is family-style condominiums. At the base lodge is a cafeteria and lounge, cheese and wine shop, and deli bar, as well as the rental shop; group and individual lessons are available.

Although Bromley's dining and lodging facilities are family-oriented, more elegant inns and restaurants are only a few miles away in Manchester, a lively town with a wide range of cuisine and shopping options. Manchester’s designer outlet stores are well known. Traffic there can be heavy, but the town is so picturesque that it’s not hard to relax and slow down.

There are four Nordic centers close to Manchester. To reach Wild Wings Ski Touring Center ( 824-6793) go a short distance up Route 11 from the mountain to the village of Peru; take the side road that bears left into the village, and make the left turn at the Peru Church, onto North Road. Again bear left and look for the Wild Wings sign on the left. The 24 km of trails are named for local birds, like the grouse and blue jay, as well as for the snow goose and goshawk; the center is in a "snow pocket" and often has good skiing even when other locations are suffering bare ground. A rental shop and warming room include a shop for extras, and there are group and private lessons.

Hildene ( 362-1788), the 24-room mansion just south of Manchester that once belonged to Robert Todd Lincoln (son of Abraham Lincoln), opens its 22 trails (15 km) in mid-December. Gentle woods and meadow outlooks make up most of the trails, but there is a challenging "Cliff Trail" and several other good workouts. Look for the turn from Route 7A; call ahead if in doubt about snow conditions.

The Equinox, Manchester’s classic hotel, offers its own cross-country trails ( 362-4700). A few miles up Route 30 west, between East Rupert and West Rupert, is the Merck Forest ( 394-7836), where the summer nature trails become winter ones, complete with wild animal tracks to spot (watch especially for fox and rabbit).

To the northeast of Wallingford, in the village of Shrewsbury, is High Pastures (Cold River Road,  773-2087 or 800-584-4738), a bed and breakfast with cross-country skiing on 125 acres.

If you’re ready for some skiing in wilder terrain, the Mountain Valley Trails Association (a Londonderry group) maintains a set of trails around Landgrove, reached by taking Route 11 to Peru and then taking the left turn onto a town road and traveling another four miles. At the center of Landgrove turn left at the school and pass the Village Inn on the right. Bear left again and park at the next corner, where the trails begin. A detailed trail map is available from the Green Mountain National Forest District Office in Manchester (RR1, Box 1940, Routes 11/30, Manchester Center, VT 05255,  362-2307).

To the south, near Bennington, Prospect Mountain ( 442-2575; e-mail xcski@aol.com) in Woodford opens its Nordic center in mid-December. Located on national forest land on Route 9, the ski touring area has 30 km of groomed trails, and offers both skating and classical rentals and lessons. Home cooking is served in the base lodge.

Finally, don’t forget that many Green Mountain National Forest trails are ideal for Nordic skiing; some are groomed by local snowmobile clubs, making the trails even easier. In the White Rocks National Recreation Area, which stretches from Mount Tabor north to Wallingford, the Little Michigan Trail is earmarked for this, and the Catamount Trail, which runs the length of Vermont, cuts across the recreation area. Because of the special challenges of winter weather, though, wilderness areas are probably best saved for expertly equipped expeditions once the snow flies.

Three sections of the Catamount Trail are in this region of the state, from Landgrove to Lake Ninevah north of Healdville. Check the trail guide for details. This is a lovely section of the winter corridor, with some glorious mountain views (Catamount Trail Association, PO Box 1235, Burlington, VT 05402,  864-5784).

SNOWMOBILE RENTALS

• William Hance, Emerald Lake Road, East Dorset, VT 05253 ( 362-3946); guide service also available.

SLEIGH RIDES

• Karl Pfister Sleigh Rides, RR1, Box 217B, Landgrove, VT 05148 ( 824-6320).
• Valley View Horses & Tackle Shop, Box 48A, Northwest Hill Rd., Pownal, VT 05261 ( 823-4649). They also offer wagon rides for snow-free times!

Maybe it was the heritage of the Bennington Potters Yard that drew all those artists and craftspeople to the southwestern corner of the state. Or maybe it was the seriousness and enthusiasm with which culture and history are regarded in this college town – concerts, lectures, films, and dance and drama productions make up much of the college atmosphere. Bennington has about two dozen galleries and museums, with more spilling over into North Bennington, and several noted public statues. Pick up the arts map at the Chamber of Commerce on Route 7 (North Street) at the north edge of town; it includes a schedule of events. Especially look for productions by the Oldcastle Theatre Company, a professional equity company whose shows range from Shakespeare to musicals, drama, and British comedy.

The Green Mountain National Forest has an office in Manchester Center ( 362-2307) at the junction of Routes 7, 11, and 30; stop by to get information on habitat and wildlife, and ask about special events that the rangers may be setting up.

If you’re excited by the Long Trail, consider volunteering your help for the endless protection and management needed. This can be a lot of fun, as well as a great way to get in shape and get acquainted with the peak wilderness areas of Vermont. Contact the Green Mountain Club, Route 100, RR1, Box 650, Waterbury Center, VT 05677 ( 244-7037).

Prehistory and early history in the Bennington area have left such fascinating archaeological traces that the proposed Bennington Bypass highway system has been held up for years, as a team from the University of Maine uncovers artifacts dating back 4,000 years. Native Americans camped along the banks of the Walloomsac River, and a for a short period of time, some 3,500 to 4,000 years back, they had a village at the site that is now intended to become a highway cloverleaf. There are plenty of stone spearheads and scrapers being found, as well as traces of cooking processes like fire hearths and a roasting pit. You can visit the site daily (9 a.m. to 3 p.m.) and can arrange for tours as well as volunteer opportunities ( 447-7391, Web site www.umf.maine. edu/~umfarc). To get to the site, take Route 67A northwest out of Bennington to the interchange ramps and follow signs to the Cloverleaf Site.

Most lodging around Bennington is small inns, bed and breakfast homes, or motels. For a touch of elegance, there are three luxurious rooms available at the Four Chimneys Inn ( 447-3500, $$-$$$) on Route 9 to the west of town; this Georgian estate has a parklike setting and is noted for its fine dining.

At 1067 East Main Street is the Molly Stark Inn ( 442-9631 or 800-356-3076, Web site www.mollystarkinn.com, $$-$$$), an 1890 country-style inn rich in history and within easy walking distance of both the center of town (where there is plenty of good eating) and the two historic districts, downtown and Old Bennington. There are six cozy guest rooms and a private cottage.

Bennington’s Ramada Inn ( 442-8145 or 800-228-2828, $$-$$$) on Route 7 (north of Route 9) is the only full-service hotel in town, with 104 rooms, restaurant, nightclub, and extras like tennis courts and a heated pool. If you turn south on Route 7, there’s the South Gate Motel ( 447-7525, $$), which in summer offers a picnic area with grill. Another pleasant stop is the Kirkside Motor Lodge ( 447-7596, $-$$) at 250 West Main Street, close to a group of nice shops and also near the historic monument district.

The Paradise Motor Inn ( 442-8351, $$-$$$) is in the middle of town at 141 West Main Street and has its own restaurant; you’re sure to spot it as you tour Bennington. But you’ll have to head north up Route 7A to find the Harwood Hill Motel ( 442-6278, $$) and its "million-dollar view" of Mt. Anthony and the Bennington Monument.

Fresh-cut Christmas trees are a strong local tradition, and Bennington has nine tree farms in and around town (get a list from the Chamber of Commerce or call the Bennington Country Christmas Tree Growers Association,  447-3311). What’s that got to do with lodging Well, wouldn’t you like to go home with your own tree after an early winter visit to the region Both the Knotty Pine Motel (130 Northside Drive,  442-5487, $-$$) and the Best Western New Englander Motor Inn (220 Northside Drive,  442-6311 or 800-528-1234, $$) will send you home with a fragrant Vermont tree as part of one of their hospitality packages! Both establishments are on Route 7A.

North of town on Route 7A, heading out into the country again, is the Alexandra Inn, a bed and breakfast in an 1859 farmhouse with panoramic views of the Green Mountains and the Bennington Monument. Alex Koks and Andra Erickson are experienced innkeepers with decades of local history and enjoy running this smaller scale retreat. They provide guests with a gourmet breakfast ( 442-5619 or 888-207-9386, Web site www.AlexandraInn.com, $$-$$$).

Two nearby villages also offer lodging: in Pownal (on Route 7, nine miles south of Bennington), there’s the Ladd Brook Motor Inn ( 823-7341, $$). In Shaftsbury (on Route 7A, eight miles north of Bennington) are the Iron Kettle Motel ( 442-4316, $$), which also has a Christmas tree package and horseback trail rides, plus listening devices for the speech and hearing impaired, and the Governor’s Rock Motel ( 442-4734, open May through October, $-$$).

Arlington and East Arlington are richly endowed with country inns that range from the elegant to the cozy. Many line Route 7A, and the most elegant of all is the Arlington Inn ( 375-6532 or 800-443-9442, $$-$$$$), an 1848 Greek Revival mansion with 18 luxurious rooms and gracious candlelight dinners. The Ira Allen House ( 362-2284, $$) is also on Route 7A and was built by Ethan Allen’s brother; it is a state historic site, a Colonial Revival inn with nine rooms.

To reach the West Mountain Inn ( 375-6516, $$$-$$$$), take Route 313 west from the center of town and make the second left. The food at this inn is worth almost any trip, and you’ll be surrounded by 150 acres to explore, with hiking, cycling, and llamas in residence.

Hill Farm Inn ( 375-2269 or 800-882-2545, Web site www.hillfarminn.com, $$$) is also outside the village; head north on Route 7A and look for the second right across the Batten Kill. Other favorites are the Arlington Manor House ( 375-6784, $$-$$$), a bed and breakfast also specializing in antiques, and Kelan House B&B ( 375-9029, $$-$$$), an 1822 Federal Colonial filled with antiques, situated along the Batten Kill. For more variety, there are housekeeping log cabins at the Roaring Branch ( 375-6401, weekly rates) in East Arlington, and motels like the Candlelight ( 375-6647 or 800-348-5294, $-$$) and the Valhalla ( 375-2212, $-$$).

There are so many inns and bed-and-breakfast homes in this resort town that it would take a whole chapter to list them! The fine hotel most noted in Manchester is the Equinox, a Victorian treasure listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Equinox achieves a blend of country grand resort style and also traditional charm. There are 154 rooms, and the restaurant and tavern on the premises promise wonderful dining and entertainment. This is also a golfer’s haven, with an 18-hole course designed by Walter Travis; the Dormy Grill overlooking the golf course offers lunch and a Lobster Fest. The historic elegance of the hotel is now matched by modern luxuries like a spa program and fitness center. Reservations should be made well in advance ( 362-4700 or 800-362-4747, $$$-$$$$).

The Inn at Willow Pond, on 20 scenic acres five minutes north on Route 7, is truly a retreat. It has an intimate restaurant that wins acclaim for its Northern Italian cuisine. Baths are marble and tile, and there’s an Olympic-size lap pool. Ask for a room with a fireplace. The suites here are an especially good value, with up to four bedrooms, offering a wonderful way to spend a vacation with friends. ( 362-4733 or 800-533-3533, Web site innatwillowpond.com, $$$/suites higher.)

Other notable choices include the Wilburton Inn ( 362-2500 or 800-648-4944, $$-$$$$) with its breathtaking views and Victorian estate; the 1811 House ( 362-1811 or 800-432-1811, $$$-$$$$), a 1770s restored Federal home once the private residence of President Lincoln’s granddaughter; and the Inn at Manchester, a picture-book New England home with superb breakfasts ( 362-1793 or 800-273-1793, Web site www.innatmanchester.com, $$-$$$).

Don’t miss the Reluctant Panther Inn & Restaurant ( 362-2568 or 800-822-2331, $$$-$$$$), even if you just drive by the purple-painted village home; this inn has eight rooms and its own unique pub.

Two romantic hilltop properties specialize in privacy and elegant touches: the Manchester Highlands Inn ( 362-4565 or 800-743-4565, $$-$$$) in a lovely Victorian home overlooking town, and the Inn at Ormsby Hill ( 362-1163 or 800-670-2841, $$$-$$$$), a restored 18th-century manor house.

Angling There’s a charming Victorian farmhouse on the banks of the Batten Kill that will get you fishing before or after breakfast. The Battenkill Inn ( 362-4213 or 800-441-1628, $$$) is located across from Equinox Skyline Drive on Route 7A, about four miles south of Manchester Village. Croquet on the lawns, ducks in the pond, and comfortable rooms with fireplaces complete the picture.

There are plenty of motels too, like the Aspen ( 362-2450, $$), a mile north of Manchester; the Brittany Inn ( 362-1033, $$), three miles south of Manchester Village; the Weathervane ( 362-2444 or 800-262-1317, $$-$$$), in the heart of Manchester; and the Palmer House ( 362-3600 or 800-917-6245, $$-$$$), also in town on Route 7A.

There’s a lot of tradition for fun and adventure at Johnny Seesaw's ( 824-5533, $-$$), a ski lodge and restaurant that also has suites and cottages; the cuisine is Yankee and tasty. An Olympic-sized swimming pool and clay tennis courts add summer fun; the mountain is just down the road for skiing, biking, and hiking. Right next to the resort’s Alpine Slide is the Bromley Sun Lodge ( 824-6941, $$-$$$), a privately owned addition to the Bromley complex, with 51 rooms, restaurant, bar and lounge, game rooms, and indoor pool. In winter the ski room door of the lodge leads right out to the slopes and lifts.

Long a haven for artists and writers, this town has a gentle resort ambiance that has encouraged fine inns to prosper. Most noted is the Dorset Inn (Church Street,  867-5500, $$$), a chef-owned, comfortable hostelry with relaxing atmosphere and its own tavern. There is also an exceptional resort at Barrows House ( 867-4455 or 800-639-1620, $$$-$$$$), an old country inn with 28 rooms and suites. Bike rentals and access to the nearby Dorset Golf Club add to the vacation mood, and the golf club doubles as a cross-country ski location.

For bed and breakfast, try the Little Lodge at Dorset ( 867-4040, $$), which overlooks a trout pond. The inn is decorated with flowers and antiques. The Dovetail Inn ( 867-5747 or 800-4-DOVETAIL) is an 1800s bed and breakfast on the green in the village; there are 11 guest rooms, and breakfasts are served by the fireplace. Set high on a hillside among 23 acres of meadow and woodland, the Eyrie Motel ( 362-1208, $-$$) is in East Dorset on Route 7.

For a special treat, the Inn at West View Farm, 2928 Route 30 in Dorset, offers the luxuries of a sitting room with library, closed-in porch, reading room, fine dining in the Auberge Room, and casual fare in the fully licensed tavern. Innkeepers Dorothy and Helmut Stein enjoy conversation, and their interests include history, music, and art, so you can have plenty of stimulus if you just stay inside and relax. But the farmhouse is situated on five acres and is surrounded by mountains that will call you out onto the trails. A full breakfast is included in the room rate ( 867-5715 or 800-769-4903; Web site www.vtweb.com/innatwestviewfarm, $$-$$$).

Silas Griffith Inn ( 293-5567 or 800-545-1509, $$-$$$) has 17 guest rooms in an 1891 Victorian mansion built for Vermont’s first millionaire. There are spectacular mountain views.

Step back in time to a simple, pleasant home with gracious hospitality at the Quail’s Nest Bed & Breakfast (Main Street,  293-5099, Web site http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/quails_nest, $$). Six romantic guest rooms feature homemade quilts.

The I.B. Munson House Bed & Breakfast Inn ( 446-2860 or 888-519-3771, $$-$$$) is a classic of 19th-century architecture, complete with Italian motifs and Waverly wallcoverings. There are nine rooms, and the inn serves a full country breakfast by the fireside, as well as afternoon tea.

The White Rocks Inn ( 446-2077, $$-$$$) is another lovely bed and breakfast on Route 7, featuring canopy beds and four-posters in its four guest rooms. The farmhouse is elegantly furnished, and the landmark barn is spectacular.

Lake St. Catherine has drawn guests for more than a century, and the inns nearby reflect the gracious lifestyle that these early summer visitors enjoyed. Now the inns are open year-round. The Lake St. Catherine Inn on Cones Point Road is a country lodge directly on the water, with free use of rowboats, canoes, sailboats, and paddleboats. Hosts Patricia and Raymond Endlich have enjoyed restoring the inn and include a full breakfast and five-course dinner with the room rate. Ask about weekly rates. ( 287-9347 or 800-626-LSCI, Web site www.lakestcatherineinn.com, $$-$$$).

Or enjoy a bed and breakfast on the village green at the Birdhouse Inn. Host Patricia Birdsell shares her books as well as the fireplace. Continental breakfasts are served. (1430 E. Main Street, which is Route 140;  287-2405; $$).

Another choice is the Tower Hall B&B at 399 Bentley Avenue. Pat Perrine, host, loves to bake as well as to ski and converse, and the house really does have a tower ( 287-4004 or 800-894-4004, Web site www.sover.net/~towerhal, $$).

One of the best known campgrounds in southern Vermont is Greenwood Lodge, in Woodford only three miles from the Appalachian Trail. The campground contact address is Ed and Ann Shea, Box 246, Bennington, VT 05201 ( 442-2547), but it’s located out on Route 9 about eight miles east of Bennington. There’s a rustic lodge with dormitory or private bedrooms, as well as the camping area (only 20 well-spaced sites, so it’s best to call ahead).

In Arlington, there’s Camping on the Battenkill (RD2, Box 3310, Arlington, VT 05250,  375-6663), a quarter-mile north of the village on Route 7A, with 100 sites and, of course, fishing and swimming in the Batten Kill.

North of Wallingford in North Clarendon is Iroquois Land Family Camping ( 773-2832), with 45 open and wooded sites.

State campgrounds in this region include Woodford State Park (Woodford,  447-7149); Shaftsbury State Park (Shaftsbury,  375-9978); Emerald Lake State Park (East Dorset,  362-1655); and Lake St. Catherine State Park (Poultney,  287-9158). All close by mid-October. Woodford and Emerald Lake each have about 100 sites, the other two have about 60 sites each.

The Green Mountain National Forest sections here all allow camping: primitive camping in the forests, where campers are asked to leave no trace behind them, and also more traditional camping restricted to designated campgrounds so that the vulnerable plantlife nearby is protected (this is called "site camping"). In the White Rocks Recreation Area there are two campgrounds, one at the northeast corner near the Keewaydin Trail and the other in the Big Branch Wilderness. Several shelters are found along other trails. There are no campgrounds in the George Aiken Wilderness, but the Lye Brook Wilderness has a campground on the shore of Branch Pond.

Camping in the national forests, and especially in the wilderness areas, is intended to blend in with the surroundings so that others can enjoy the sense of not being crowded by humans. How do you camp without leaving a trace Well, for starters, whatever goes in with you, goes back out again.The Forest Service makes the following suggestions for those using national forests:

• Camp at least 200 feet from water and trails, unless at a designated campsite or shelter.
• Set up your tent to avoid destroying vegetation. Do not cut branches for bedding.
• A small, lightweight camp stove is highly recommended for cooking.
• If you need to build a fire, remove the top 6-8 inches of soil. Use only dead and down wood, and never leave your fire unattended. Before leaving, put your fire out by dousing with water. Leave no signs of your fire.
• All soaps, even biodegradable ones, pollute the water. Do all washing and dump all waste water at least 200 feet from all water sources, in a small pit. Cover after use.
• Properly dispose of human waste. Select a spot at least 200 feet from any water or wet areas, and well away from hiking trails. Dig a hole six- to eight-inches deep. If possible, burn toilet paper and tampons, or else carry them out in plastic bags – diapers, too. Replace and lightly pack down the soil after use, and nature will take care of the rest in a few days.

For fine dining, there is one outstanding choice: the Four Chimneys Inn on Route 9 west of town, where master chef Alex Koks creates elegant cuisine (reservations needed,  447-3500).

Another local favorite is the Bennington Station Restaurant ( 447-1080) at 150 Depot Street, in a historic train depot. Steak, chicken, and seafood make up much of the menu, and there are great deli sandwiches. Carmody’s at 421 Main Street ( 447-5748) makes a terrific French onion soup, served in a bread bowl, a hearty start to lunch or dinner. And Geanneli’s at 520 Main Street ( 442-9833) serves breakfast all day, as well as noted homestyle lunch and dinner with daily specials. The buttermilk pancakes are a treat, and the coffee is fresh and good.

Children are welcome at Jensens’s Family Restaurant (Route 7,  442-3333), which has a sandwich board and rotisserie specials; take-out is available. The Publyk House Restaurant (Route 7A north of town,  442-8301) is nestled in a remodeled barn among the apple orchards on Harwood Hill.

Ready for informal fun and tasty food in a different atmosphere Don’t miss Alldays and Onions (519 Main Street,  447-0043), for breakfasts, lunches, and dinners enhanced by a bakery, deli, and gourmet pastas; there’s outdoor seating in warmer weather, and live entertainment weekly. Or try the Madison Brewing Co. Brew Pub and Restaurant, in the middle of town at 428 Main Street ( 44BREWS), where six handcrafted brews are made on site. There’s another brewery in town, Bennington Brewer’s Ltd. at 190 North Street (Route 7,  447-3510). The firm specializes in ales, and has tours and tastings. Call for seasonal hours. You can also enjoy tastings at the Joseph Cerniglia Winery ( 442-3531) on Route 9 just west of the monument, where you can sample 11 labels and browse in the food-oriented gift shop.

Dining means delight at the West Mountain Inn ( 375-6516) on the River Road in Arlington. Count on wonderful breakfasts and tasty desserts. Dinner is continental cuisine.

Consider Jonathon’s Table ( 375-1021, May to October) for casual and unhurried dining that the restaurant describes as "New England cuisine with a Mediterranean flair." There’s a woodsy setting to this location behind the Sugar Shack on Route 7A, and the restaurant serves a special breakfast during March sugaring season; do call ahead.

The Wagon Wheel ( 375-9508) is on Route 7A in the Arlington Plaza and has a homey atmosphere, nice for relaxing with the kids.

Remember to take the detour into East Arlington for shopping, scenery, and the East Arlington Café ( 375-6412), a popular stop for explorers on foot or wheels.

Northern Italian cuisine at its finest is offered at the restaurant at The Inn at Willow Pond ( 362-4733 or 800-533-3533) on Route 7A. Appetizers range from polenta to rollatini to grilled medallions of tuna, and the pasta dishes are superb. Fresh seafood and game dishes are featured daily. Classic continental cuisine at its best, with exquisite dining and tableside service, marks the Chantecleer ( 362-1616) on Route 7A, 3_ miles north of Manchester, actually in East Dorset. Owned by chef Michel Bauman, the restaurant is recommended by many gourmands; reservations are essential. There is also the Little Rooster Café ( 362-3496) in Manchester Center on Route 7A, offering European café delights, including baguette sandwiches and omelettes.

For good food and good fun, try Mulligans ( 362-3663) on Route 7A, a steak-and-seafood restaurant with family atmosphere and homemade desserts. Laney’s Restaurant ( 362-4456) is on Route 11 (which is also Route 30) and promotes sports and entertainment celebrities, with its own sports bar. Candeleros (362-0836), also on Route 7A, is a lively Mexican restaurant where the guacamole is prepared at the table.

Time for a sweet treat Mother Myrick’s Confectionery and Ice Cream Parlor ( 362-1560) is on Route 7A just south of the center of town, among the outlet shops. Fresh pies and cakes by the slice, a soda fountain, and fresh fudge are among the delights. Or sample Paula’s apple walnut crisp (and Danish, eclairs, and more) at the Village Fare Café and Bakery ( 362-2544) across from the Equinox.

Of course, the restaurants at the Equinox Hotel ( 362-4700 or 800-362-4747) serve a wide variety of fine cuisine, and there’s a surprise waiting at the Southern Vermont Arts Center on the West Road ( 362-1405), where the Garden Café offers a nice lunch, and sometimes Sunday brunch; call ahead for hours.

The casual Yankee dining at Johnny Seesaw's ( 824-5533) includes prime rib, fresh swordfish and salmon, and pork chops. A game room adds to the fun, especially for children, who get a special menu.

For authentic Chinese cooking, try the Ginger Tree at the Wiley Inn (on Route 11,  824-5500), where master chef Warren Hennikoff offers a different five-course dinner nightly. There’s a buffet on Wednesday evenings.

The Dorset Inn ( 867-5500) serves "honest American cooking" in a casual, relaxed setting; reservations are recommended. Barrows House ( 867-4455) offers a more formal approach to regional cuisine, and includes a greenhouse and tavern.

Sitting by the fire in winter or among the flowers in summer are hallmarks of the White Dog Tavern ( 293-5477), meant for slowing down and savoring the dinners from the often-changed blackboard menu. Ask about the chicken breasts à la Tom!