This is a region of spectacular sunsets, exuberant festivals, thriving arts. The land is rolling and gentle, perfect for long-distance walking, biking, and Nordic skiing. Water birds flock to its refuges; divers investigate its underwater world of mystery and ecosystems. Lake Champlain has been called the "Sixth Great Lake," and it gives Vermont its west coast and its deepest waters. It is 120 miles long, 12 miles across at its widest, a perfect lake to sail, as it has been for two centuries of American history. Is there a Lake Champlain monster, Champ, as he’s nicknamed Who knows But there are fish and loons and islands and cliffs, so that canoeing and kayak touring on the long lake are challenging and rewarding. In winter the ice freezes so thickly that fishing shanties form a village of structures on the lake, and skaters and hikers delight in the wide open spaces. To the west across the lake are the Adirondack Mountains of New York, massive and ancient. To the east are the high ski peaks of the Green Mountains; the snow that blows over the city of Burlington in January is headed for those peaks, a comfortable drive from the city of 40,000.

The waterfront of Lake Champlain was a harbor for lumber export when the nation was young, then lumber import by the mid-1800s. The ports along this shore played major roles in the War of 1812. Later, runaway slaves desperate for Canadian freedom traveled the Underground Railway along the lake, and hidden chambers and tunnels in old buildings remind today’s visitors of those embattled years.

Now the Lake Champlain Valley is Vermont’s serene farmland and its busiest commercial region. Burlington is the hub of the recreational playground that has developed. To the north there are large islands that form an idyllic summer and fall escape. To the south the beaches and state parks encourage boaters to make multi-day trips, spending their nights on shore and their days among the waves.

If you fly into Vermont, you’ll arrive at Burlington, the state’s largest city and centerpiece of the Lake Champlain Valley. (Don’t expect it to be really large, though; the shopping district can be easily explored on foot.) You can also arrive by boat across Lake Champlain from the New York side, or by car, probably the most familiar. The most direct road route is via Interstate 89, which, at its southern end, branches off from Interstate 91. Canadian visitors often come down Interstate 89. The older route, slower and more cluttered with shops and sights, is Route 7. Driving Route 7 north from Bennington is a charming way to approach the state’s "coastal" area, and there are many smaller roads off Route 7 that head west for the two to 10 miles it’ll take to reach the shore of Lake Champlain. Summer and fall foliage travelers have crawled through the traffic and slower pace of Route 7 and made the most of it as an entry to rural life. My own preference is to use the interstate to get here, then take the slower roads for enjoyment. From the east, if you’re visiting Montpelier, Route 2 goes nearly into Burlington, then trickles northward through the small town of Chimney Corner, and out onto the Lake Champlain Islands, passing through South Hero, Grand Isle, and Alburg at the Canadian border.

Many a visitor has a first look at the Burlington area offerings at a rest area on Interstate 89, and the pair closest to the city, just south of Exit 13, are operated by the Lake Champlain Regional Chamber of Commerce (see below). There are generous racks full of information, and often there are staff members on hand to help pick out adventures or lodgings or sort out road directions. The buildings at these two rest areas are seriously outdated: designed to serve 35,000 visitors a year, now they serve well over 300,000. Groundbreaking for new structures is underway, so relief is in sight. Keep an eye out for construction. The rest areas also offer FM radio updates on local events and places to tour (tune in FM 89.7 while in the parking lots of each building).

It seems there ought to be an easy connection from the New York State Thruway, but you’ll have to leave the northern connector of this road and take back roads through the little towns of the Hudson River Valley and Lake Champlain area to the ferry docks at Fort Ticonderoga, Crown Point, Essex, or Plattsburgh (south to north), or go all the way up to the bridge at Rouses Point that takes you into Alburg by the Canada border. Although none of these routes are quick, all are picturesque.

The Vermont shore of Lake Champlain begins in the south with the quiet bluffs and sandy spits that were once focal points of the Revolutionary War and the French and Indian Wars. From Chimney Point in the south, through Basin Harbor with its lovely resort, to tiny Charlotte and bustling Shelburne, the shoreline area is perfect for long strolls and especially for spectacular sunsets. Burlington is the center of the shoreline, and offers its own waterfront park as well as thriving marinas.

North of Burlington, Lake Champlain is divided by Grand Isle, also part of Vermont, and by the spit of land where Alburg hangs south from the Canada border. The easternmost shore along this stretch is relatively undeveloped, and much of it has already been preserved as bird and wildlife sanctuaries as well as campgrounds. The very northernmost 10 miles is more built up along the east shore, a residue of the days when being a border town to Canada meant being endlessly busy, but farmlands surround the town centers. Use Route 7 all the way north and south along the lake for access to these regions, taking the smaller secondary roads to actually connect with the quiet shoreline itself.

Railroad travel to and through the Lake Champlain Valley is in flux at the moment, with passage between Burlington and Rutland newly restored, and connections to Montreal possible through Alburg to Burlington with Amtrak trains. These also connect Burlington to New York and Washington, DC, once daily. There is no direct train connection with Boston or the coast of Maine. Amtrak ( 800-RAIL-USA) can give you current schedules and rates, which continue to be modest and include a free ride for children ages two to 15 to Vermont destinations (up to two children per adult passenger).

Burlington is the center of this fertile strip of land and activity, and we tour outward from it, north and then south. You can arrive in Burlington by air at the state’s only major airport, in South Burlington; or you can come by train on the Sugarbush Vermont Express during the summer (say, from Middlebury) or the Amtrak Vermonter year-round. Most people arrive by car, having traveled Interstate 89 either across the state from the east, or down from Canada. Before the interstates, many cars came to Burlington from the Northway of New York State, crossing the Hudson and heading north on Route 22A; this is still the major highway of the coast south of Burlington.

Queen City – that’s Burlington’s nickname. A walking tour of its waterfront and downtown starts with a visit to the Lake Champlain Regional Chamber of Commerce at 60 Main Street, which you can reach by taking Exit 14W from Interstate 89 and going right past the University of Vermont campus, through the downtown restaurant area, and nearly to the waterfront. There are 4,000 parking spaces in town, so pick one and take your bearings.

The road you’ve just come down, Main Street, is the main east-west road in the city. College Street is one block north; Pearl Street, two long city blocks past College, is already in a residential district, so you can see that the downtown area is modest and compact. From the Chamber of Commerce it’s a short walk to the waterfront; stroll down Main Street, make the right turn onto Battery Street, and then the next left on College takes you right down to the "floating" Community Boathouse ( 865-3377), built on a recycled barge and endowed with a restaurant as well as the service center for the city marina. Here you can rent a sailboat or dock space, and you can take a lesson in sailing, sculling, swimming, scuba diving, or kayaking. Stand on the railed promenade of the boathouse and take a good look at the lake; you’ll want to come back at sunset, when the colors over the water and mountains are extravagant. In front of you are three shipwrecks, open to the scuba diving community as an underwater preserve (check with the Vermont Division for Historic Preservation for access and recommendations,  457-2022); there are two more in the area, off the shores of Colchester and Vergennes.

Turn and look back to the city from the boathouse. To your right is the site of the new Center for Lake Champlain, a hands-on science and nature center for the whole family, scheduled to reopen 2003 (call for outreach programs and events 802-864-1848 or visit www.lakechamplaincenter.org). Beyond it is the Vermont Railway Depot. Just down the waterfront from the Depot are the Cornerstone and Wing Buildings, home to some of the newest shops. The landing that sticks out into the lake immediately past those buildings is where the Lake Champlain Cruises dock, and at the shore end of the landing is the Lake Champlain Aquarium (open daily 11 to 5 from May to Labor Day; call for additional hours and for the rules for the associated international fishing derbies,  862-7777). To your right is Waterfront Park; a nine-mile bike path winds through the 11-acre park, perfect for cycle wheels or in-line skates. There are summer concerts in the park on Thursday evenings, and often weekend events. Beyond the north end of the park, off North Avenue, is the Ethan Allen Homestead, where the land once owned by Vermont’s Revolutionary War hero is now a public park and the farmhouse has been restored to provide hands-on history (open mid-May to mid-October and by appointment in other seasons; call for hours,  865-4556).

To see the shopping focus of the city, walk up College Street five blocks and turn left to enter the Church Street Marketplace. This pedestrian mall has some 165 shops, cafés, and restaurants; sidewalk musicians and puppeteers take occasional advantage of the wonderful space. An information kiosk offers event listings and directions. The state craft center, Frog Hollow ( 863-6458) is at 85 Church Street. At the north end is the indoor Burlington Square Mall.

Head back to College Street and, if you’re still in the mood for walking, go a half-mile uphill to the University of Vermont. Otherwise, you can take the free shuttle that goes up and down this road every 10 minutes from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and every 20 minutes from 6 to 9 p.m. The university’s green spaces (white in winter) make for a good stroll. To find the city’s art museum, turn left on University Place and then right on Colchester Avenue. The Robert Hull Fleming Museum (closed Mondays;  656-0750) is at 61 Colchester Avenue and houses extensive collections of American paintings as well as Native American artifacts and Oriental, pre-Columbian, and European art and archaeology.

Walk back toward the waterfront on Main Street to look over the eateries, galleries, and especially the music shops. The Flynn Theater ( 863-5966) is at 153 Main Street and presents great performers year-round. Another popular stop, off Main Street, is the Church and Maple Glass Studio ( 863-3880) at 225 Church Street, an open studio where you can watch molten glass being shaped and blown.

Other city locations to keep in mind are St. Paul’s Cathedral ( 864-0471) at Cherry and Pearl Streets, where there’s a free classical music series all winter and spring on Thursdays from noon to 1 p.m.; the Union Station Gallery ( 864-1557) at the foot of Main Street, housing a public gallery and several artists’ studios; and the city’s two major sports equipment shops, the Ski Rack (which also is into bikes in snow-free seasons,  658-3313), on Main Street not far from the waterfront; and the Downhill Edge, the ski and snowboard shop a few doors farther down Main Street.

Burlington’s biggest festivals are the Lake Champlain Balloon Festival at the end of May, Discover Jazz (five days in June), and First Night (New Year’s Eve performances), but the Chamber of Commerce ( 863-3489) can give you listings that show weekend entertainment year-round.

The smaller cities (or large towns) of Shelburne, South Burlington, Williston, Essex Junction, Winooski, and Colchester form a residential and commercial ring around Burlington. At the north edge of this ring is Mallett’s Bay, a water-lover’s haven. In the surrounding towns are several attractions associated with the cultural and college-town atmosphere of the Queen City: in Essex Junction is the Discovery Museum ( 878-8687, open year-round but closed Mondays), a hands-on science and nature museum for kids; in South Burlington there are several large sports and recreation equipment shops, bookstores, and good eateries; and in Shelburne, three unusual museums provide excitement for both kids and adults – Shelburne Museum, Shelburne Farms, and Justin Morgan Memorial Museum (see Shelburne for details).

Only 28 miles north of Burlington, St. Albans is in an entirely different world, one of small-town life that focuses around a town common, Taylor Green. There are shops on one side of the green and a small mall north of town, but the town feels rural and family-focused, and is surrounded by successful dairy farms. The 1850s railroad days are close at hand, in the monumental buildings on the east side of the green, including the Franklin County Museum (open summer and early fall afternoons;  527-7933), with its apothecary shop and costume collections, and in history-based events like St. Albans Days, held in late September with a Civil War encampment on the green and often a mock skirmish that sends the roar of cannons through the town. St. Albans was once raided by Confederate forces from Canada in an attempt to tip the financial balance of the Civil War.

To the west of town on St. Albans Bay there are two state parks, Burton Island and Kill Kare, and access to a third, Wood’s Island. To the north of St. Albans, just beyond the town of Swanton on Route 78, is the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge, full of quiet wonders and well worth walking through. Then Route 78 takes you over a narrow bridge to Grand Isle County, Vermont’s very rural version of Cape Cod.

This is Grand Isle County. Everyone calls it the Champlain Islands, although the most northern section, Alburg, is actually a peninsula from the Canadian mainland. Never mind the technicalities: you get to any part of these "islands" by crossing a bridge or by taking a boat over the sometimes choppy waves of Lake Champlain.

When you travel to Alburg on Route 78 by bridge from Swanton (northwest of St. Albans), you quickly run into Route 2, which then travels south through the islands. Alburg has some homey eateries and good boat care at a pair of marinas. From the southern end of the peninsula you can cross a bridge heading west to Isle La Motte, where the Edmundite Fathers and Brothers care for St. Anne’s Shrine. There are Eucharistic celebrations offered here daily and Sunday during the summer and fall; grottos and a Way of the Cross encourage quiet prayer or meditation. Nearby is a statue of Samuel de Champlain, for whom the lake was named, and who is believed to have landed here in 1609.

When you are on Isle La Motte, you are standing on top of a 1,000-acre fossil reef that once lay south of the equator and migrated here with the continent. Along the West Shore Road you can see some exposed portions of the reef, but much of it is on private land. To find out this year’s public spots to look at the fossils, stop at the Champlain Islands Chamber of Commerce on Route 2 in North Hero ( 372-5683). Also ask for directions to the Fisk Quarry, where black marble used to emerge under the hands of local quarrymen. Since nature reclaimed the site, it has become a peaceful wetland and wildlife habitat. Tranquil and timeless, it’s the perfect place to use your wildflower guide to the max. Bring along binoculars for birding, too.

A return to Alburg by bridge takes you to another bridge, this time to North Hero, where there’s a state park on the north shore. North Hero is the summer home of the Royal Lippizan Stallions. Before and after their shows on Thursday and Friday you can meet both horses and riders ( 372-5683; call for hours and season dates). Route 2 then heads south through Grand Isle (Knight Point State Park and an island that’s a separate, very small state park, Knight Island). The southernmost isle in the chain is South Hero, home of the 1783 Hyde Log Cabin, believed to be the oldest log cabin in the country and now a state historic site open July 4 through Labor Day (Thursday through Monday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.). From South Hero another bridge leads to the mainland, arriving at the Sand Bar Wildlife Area just outside Milton; Interstate 89 and the return to Burlington are just a few miles down Route 2.

The islands are nearly flat, perfect territory for road biking. Resorts, inns, and restaurants are scattered along the shorelines, and marinas cater to anglers as well as pleasure boaters. Although some restaurants have weekend hours in the winter, many of the facilities close after apple harvest season. You might want to schedule a trip to the orchards here in late September or during the blossoming weeks in late May or early June.

Curious about the island names The story is that the brothers Ira and Ethan Allen modestly named the island "The Two Heroes" after themselves and, with Gov. Thomas Chittenden, the Allens parceled out the land to their Revolutionary War militia, the Green Mountain Boys.

South of Burlington by only 10 miles, Shelburne thrives along Route 7. You can get here by train on the Sugarbush Vermont Express from Burlington or Middlebury, or by car down the often congested Route 7 (stay away during the rush hour entirely). A thicket of malls, large stores, and restaurants of all sorts has grown up around Route 7 between the city and the town. The area’s main supplier of rock and ice-climbing equipment, Climb High ( 985-5055) is on Route 7. Shelburne Bay is dedicated to small boats.

The town has three wonderful museums. The first and largest is Shelburne Farms ( 985-8686), a grand agricultural estate of more than 1,000 acres, with walking trails and a working farm, complete with cheese-making and a children’s farmyard. There are magnificent 18th-century buildings and furnishings, a stunning view of the lake, and a thoughtful environmental education center. Shelburne Farms is open daily from late May to mid-October. The Vermont Mozart Festival performs in summer here, as does the Vermont Symphony. From Burlington, take Route 7. Four miles after you pass Interstate 89, take the right turn onto Bay Road. It leads down to the harbor. If you miss this turn, you can also get there from the center of Shelburne by taking the right onto Harbor Road; there are plenty of signs.

Shelburne Museum, farther down Route 7, creates a working history of Vermont’s 18th and 19th centuries, with 35 exhibit buildings on 100 acres. Climb the gangway of the Ticonderoga, the last steam-powered side-wheeler of its type in the country; watch a blacksmith strike sparks at the forge, see candles being made, and marvel at the variety of carriages and sleighs that horses have pulled. This is one of the largest collections of Americana in the country, and so much of it is active and hands-on that it’s a good place for a family to spend an entire day. It’s open daily from 10 to 5 in summer and during foliage season ( 985-3346).

Next door to the Shelburne Museum is the Justin Morgan Memorial Museum, dedicated to the breeder of the Morgan horse and, of course, to his horse, Figure. There are also glimpses into life with the First Vermont Cavalry and at the first National Morgan Horse Show. This museum is open year-round ( 985-8665).

The center of Shelburne is a historic district, focused around a green along Route 7. The Shelburne Inn is here, established in 1796. Look for the Vermont Teddy Bear Company as you leave the village to the south on Route 7; there’s a tour here for collectors, kids, and bear appreciators ( 985-3001; shop open daily, but call for tour hours).

Five miles south of the Shelburne Museum is the right turn to Charlotte, a pleasant shoreline village where a ferry makes a 20-minute crossing of Lake Champlain to Essex, NY. The Town Hall serves as a community museum. If you stay on Route 7, immediately past the Charlotte turn on your right is the Vermont Wildflower Farm ( 425-3500), six acres of flowery fields and forest glades. Pathways are marked with notes on herbal histories and legends. Plan to visit between May 1 and mid-October.

Charlotte’s bookstore, the Flying Pig, has traditionally called itself a children’s bookstore, but now also carries great vacation reading and a wide selection of travel guides and books of local and regional interest. Owners Elizabeth Bluemle and Josie Leavitt love to talk about books and welcome e-mail (FlyingPig@aol.com). The shop address is 86 Ferry Road; it’s actually just off Route 7 at the turn for Charlotte ( 425-2600).

Also in Charlotte is a blueberry farm, Pelkey’s U-Pick Blueberries, where you can pick your own sweet fruit in late July and August (follow the signs from the center of the village). There’s an apple orchard nearby for autumn gleaning.

For less than $4 round trip, you can take a 20-minute ferry ride from Charlotte across the waters of Lake Champlain to the New York "coastal" hamlet of Essex, a village full of 18th- and 19th-century homes and buildings, gift and antique shops, and marinas. It’s easy to explore on foot, so there’s a perfect excuse to leave the car in the free parking area on the Vermont side of the lake and take off for a day excursion. The ferry operates daily from April 1 to mid-October, and sometimes in winter ( 802-864-9804); you don’t need a reservation at all. If you really want to bring your car, you’ll still pay less than $25 round trip, including all your passengers.

From the ferry landing, walk up into town, turn left on Main Street, and find the town office a block down the road on the right, with its rack full of information (and sparkling clean public bathroom). Be sure to pick up the guide to the town’s architecture, which includes Federal Greek Revival, Carpenter Gothic, Italianate, and French Second Empire styles. Greystone, an 1853 cut-stone Greek Revival mansion with scenic grounds, opens its museum displays on weekends from the end of May to mid-October and daily in July and August, from noon to 5 (admission;  518-963-8058, Web site www.essexny.net).

The gift shops and antique and book shops are obvious within the first few minutes of strolling around, and so are the snack spots like the Essex Ice Cream Shop ( 518-963-7951), Essex Provisions with sandwiches and breakfasts ( 518-963-7136), and the Sunburst Tea Garden ( 518-963-7482), which serves only afternoon tea, sometimes only on weekends. The spots for a more hearty meal are on the waterfront: the comfortable Old Dock House Restaurant and Marina ( 518-963-4232) is next to the ferry landing. Jimmy’s Lakeside is at the Essex Shipyard Marina and serves only dinner ( 518-963-7993), doing a nice job with diverse cuisine in its tiny dining room.

Sailors and anglers will appreciate their options along the waterfront: There’s the well established Essex Shipyard Marina ( 518-963-7700), nearby Essex Boatworks with its fine wooden boats and repair ( 518-963-8840), and the Essex Marina and Ship’s Store ( 518-963-7222). The town has been serving boats and their owners since the early 1700s; the first ferry service here dated to 1730.

Kayaking, canoeing, cycling, or camping out Contact High Peak Touring, the local outfitting guide service, which rents and sells gear for all these activities ( 518-963-7028). You can also sign up for a sea kayaking course, or get a shuttle to take you onto the nearby Boquet (bo-KETT) River. Better yet, try the combined bike and boat tour for a day-long adventure.

The village offers a Maritime Festival and its traditional Essex Day in August, as well as celebrations on Fourth of July and during the Christmas season. Contact the helpful staff at the Essex Town Hall ( 518-963-4287) for this year’s dates. They can also give you an update on a nearby nature preserve and campground that’s still in progress but open for some use, Noblewood Park. It’s on Route 22 along the Boquet River and offers a beach, walking trails, and a canoe launch. Primitive tent sites are available by reservation through the Willsboro Town Hall (that’s in the next town inland;  518-963-8668).

The Lake Champlain Maritime Museum ( 475-2022) not only has small watercraft and a reproduction gunboat to clamber over, but it hosts boatbuilders in working shops and more than two dozen summer workshops on making your own boats and related skills. You could learn the techniques of lapstrake canoe construction as you actually build one; set to work making your own kayak; carve a canoe paddle with Native American techniques; or explore blacksmithing, hands-on, at the forge. There’s a nautical archaeology center, and there are stories of the lake and its rich history, including Revolutionary War gunboats. Picnic at the lakeside between events and exhibits.

Just north of the museum is Kingsland Bay State Park; south of the museum is the Basin Harbor Club ( 475-2311 or 800-622-4000), a resort where the harbormaster rents out canoes, rowboats, small outboards, and windsurfers.

Basin Harbor is reached from Vergennes; take Route 7 to Vergennes and then follow the signs to the west.

Some 9,500 years ago, Native Americans regularly camped around Chimney Point, the portion of West Addison that forms the southern edge of Lake Champlain. Their campsites and artifacts left many clues to the way of life dependent on fishing and hunting. By 1000 BC the Woodland culture was taking over and the area became part of a trade route; eventually the Woodland people, ancestors of today’s Abenaki ("People of the Dawn") tribe, began to farm this valley. The museum at Chimney Point ( 759-2412) exhibits artifacts from these cultures as well as from the French Canadians, who then settled at Chimney Point. >From Route 7, switch in Vergennes to Route 22A and then in Addison to Route 17 west to the shoreline, or from Basin Harbor follow the coast road 12 miles south to the state historic site, which is open seasonally; call for hours.

By 1765 there were people of British background trying to settle in the area, building log cabins along the lake. For a fascinating look into the lives of one of the first of these families in Addison, John Strong’s family, stop at the Strong House, just north of the Chimney Point historic site, in the D.A.R. (Daughters of the American Revolution) State Park. Find out what Mrs. Strong did when a Native American raiding party approached her home by canoe, and how her sons had to search for her and the baby some time later after the settlement was burned by another raiding party. The surrounding state park has recreation facilities on Lake Champlain.

The Dead Creek Wildlife Management Area is just east of West Addison village; this is a perfect spot for canoe exploration and birding.

The entire city of Burlington is very walkable, with the uphill roads calling for brisk action, and the cross streets going through friendly neighborhoods. Battery Park lures wanderers to the shore, too. For the great ankle strengthening of shoreline walking, try North Beach City Park at the north end of town, reached by leaving the downtown area on North Avenue and making a right turn on Institute Road. There are also plenty of walking paths at Red Rocks Park, the southernmost of the shoreline parks; from Shelburne Road take Queen City Park Road, which is just south of the ramp to Interstate 89; turn left on Central Avenue.

Head east of town on Route 2 to Williston for more of a stretch. To get to the Catamount Family Center ( 879-6001) take Route 2 to the left turn onto North Williston Road, then right onto Gov. Chittenden Road. The center is on the right. There is summer running and hiking on the trails, as well as an orienteering course, interpretive (nature) trails, and special events. Keep an eye out for mountain bikers! Nearby at 1079 Williston Road is the 100-acre training location of Pine Ridge Adventure Center ( 434-5294), where adventure programs begin with community building and skills development on site before traveling to wilderness areas of New England, New York, and Canada. The adventure center also offers ropes courses and team-building exercises on site; the center is part of Pine Ridge School, an independent high school for students with learning disabilities, but it serves a wider community of individuals and groups seeking personal challenge and enhanced team spirit.

Camel’s Hump, with its distinctive double-bump silhouette, is easily visible from Burlington and Williston. Its alpine summit has vulnerable plants and rapidly eroding soil and trails. Unfortunately, it is being hiked by far too many pairs of feet for its terrain, so I am not giving directions for its trails. If you’re determined to go to a high spot nearby, try Mt. Mansfield (from Stowe or from Smugglers’ Notch), which has been better protected or, better yet, go farther afield to a less traveled mountain like Jay Peak, Mt. Abraham or Ascutney, and feel good about giving the land a much needed break.

An unusual wetlands walk is found at the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge, north of Swanton on a peninsula jutting into Lake Champlain. Although the trails cover only two miles altogether, there are wildlife checklists and observation points, and blueberry picking is allowed off Tabor Road during July and August. Wear boots and a hat and bring a compass and bug repellent! Check in with the refuge manager when you arrive.

Rock climbers, attention please! Get in shape and practice new skills just a few miles out of town at Petra Cliffs Climbing Center (formerly Burlington Rock Gym) in Essex, with more than 6,000 square feet of climbing surface and 30 ropes, plus a bouldering cave, and outdoor guiding. Call for directions ( 657-3872 or 860-2894, Web site www.petracliffs.com).

Climbers will also want to schedule a visit to Climb High ( 985-5055) at 1861 Shelburne Road (Route 7) in Shelburne, the area’s chief supplier of climbing and ski mountaineering gear. This is also a good place to pick up terrain maps and guidebooks.

A trip north to Georgia, off Exit 18 from Interstate 18, takes you to the Georgia Stables ( 524-3395 or 893-7268), where there are scenic riding trails through the woods and families are made welcome. Sleigh and hay rides are also available.

Burlington’s nine-mile recreation path is designed with road bikers in mind, and the lake views are truly special; try to be there at sunset for a real treat. The Boathouse by Waterfront Park is the usual access point, where there’s parking. Three other bike trails are available. One is the South Burlington Recreation Path (eight miles), which you can pick up at either Red Rocks Park or Oakledge Park (both are south of the downtown area, along the shoreline). The second is the two-mile Essex Transportation Path, starting from Route 15 just east of the Essex Junction police station. The third, the Shelburne Bike Path, is two miles long and graveled, running from the boat mooring area off Bay Road to the Shelburne Point Road; motivated cyclists can then ride on Shelburne Point Road all the way to the marina.

A locally interesting road route for views across the lake is to start from South Burlington High School and ride south for six miles on Dorset Street, then make the right turn onto Irish Hill Road and again onto Spear Street for another view; a right onto Swift brings you back to Dorset for the return trip. If you’re up for a longer ride, try the route from the University of Vermont along Spear Street to East Charlotte and back, about 20 miles round trip.

For road biking south of Burlington, keep in mind that Route 22A, like Route 7, gets very crowded with car traffic on summer and autumn days. Stick to the smaller roads along the shore, which are really more fun anyway.

The Lake Champlain Islands are a biker’s holiday site: flat to rolling, with good curves along the paved roads and a handful of nice straight unpaved roads. Use the triple loop given in John Freidin’s book 25 Bicycle Tours in Vermont, or create your own. Freidin also offers a nice loop between St. Albans and Swanton. St. Albans is a nice town for biking, with gentle climbs and a 27-mile Rail Trail to pedal. Check in at North Star Cyclery on South Main Street ( 524-2049) for directions to the trail.

How about being able to ride 350 miles around Lake Champlain If that sounds daunting, consider the possibilities of 24 interpretive bike loops connected with the waterfront, offering insight into natural, cultural, and historical resources of the region as well as connecting with campsites and other recreation options. It’s all happening now, and you can get an update from the Lake Champlain Bikeways clearinghouse, c/o Lake Champlain Visitor Center, RR1 Box 220, Crown Point, NY 12928 (Web site www. lakeplacid.com/bikeways). You can also check on Burlington area trails through the Lake Champlain Regional Chamber of Commerce ( 802-863-3489, Web site www.vermont.org). There is already a 10-mile path to tour Burlington, and a number of other trails are in place on the other side of the lake.

The Catamount Family Center is in Williston. Take Route 2 east of Burlington to the light at the North Williston Road, turn left, then after a mile right on the Gov. Chittenden Road; the center is on your right;  879-6001. It offers mountain bikers 48 miles of trails, with some hills and a good mix of terrain plus views. There are races on Monday evenings at 6 p.m.. Bike rentals are available.

P.O.M.G. Bike Tours of Vermont ( 888-635-BIKE), centered in Winooski, puts together camping bike tours that challenge and refresh. Gourmet camp cuisine makes it all the sweeter. Each tour has multiple departure dates; send for the listing of this year’s destinations. (What’s P.O.M.G. Glad you asked – Peace Of Mind Guaranteed.)

Canoeing in this region focuses on the Winooski River, from Richmond to Essex Junction and from the Champlain Mill to Lake Champlain. There’s also flatwater canoeing on Lake Iroquois in Williston, Indian Brook Pond in Essex, Arrowhead Mountain Lake in Milton (best at the north end), and Shelburne Pond (1_ miles west of Route 116 on Pond Road; it’s about 2_ miles long, the wildlife is interesting, and the water snakes are not poisonous!).

You can get an intense look into wetlands, waterfowl life, and ecosystems by paddling through the 6,338-acre Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge, reached from Route 78, two miles northwest of Swanton. Stop at the refuge manager’s office for a map; launch sites vary by season. Where there are "Closed Area" signs, breeding birds or vulnerable habitat is being protected. There are miles of quiet creek boating, as well as lake boating around the shores of this peninsula in Lake Champlain.

Paddlers who are ready to try Lake Champlain can do themselves a favor by first visiting Canoe Imports at 370 Dorset Street, a half-mile south of Burlington’s University Mall in South Burlington ( 651-8760 or 800-985-2992, Web site www.canoeimports. com). From Route 2 (Williston Road) it’s .75 mile. Owner Bob Schumacher can help with a review of equipment, weather, and where to go for all skill levels of paddling. Canoe Imports deals with and repairs canoes, touring and sea kayaks, whitewater paddling, and Sunfish sailboats. Maps and guidebooks are on hand, as well as accessories.

Other resources for paddling Lake Champlain are the Vermont Paddlers Club (Rich Larsen, VPC Membership Chairman, 11 Discovery Road, Essex Junction VT 05452;  878-6828), with canoe and kayak whitewater training, a summer and fall schedule of trips, and conservation efforts; and the Champlain Kayak Club (c/o Bob & Barb Schumacher, 2064 Shelburne Road, Shelburne, VT 05482). A Lake Champlain Paddlers Trail is in progress, to encourage multi-day trips on the lake with shoreline camping.

Sea-kayaking trips can be arranged through Kevin Rose at PaddleWays (89 Caroline Street, Burlington,  660-8606; www. paddleways.com), with three-hour sunset paddles for about $5 per person (minimum six people per trip), inn-to-inn paddles that run three to five days, as well as excursions to the Champlain Islands. And Back of Beyond, an adventure outfitter and guide service, provides canoes and kayaks for rent, as well as special adventure tours and women’s programs ( 860-9500 or 800-841-3354).

This is the prime adventure mode of the Lake Champlain Valley. Marinas along the shore rent boats, offer guides, and put together fishing trips. At the Community Boathouse in Burlington ( 865-3377) there are rentals of sailboats, rowboats, and rowing shells; there are charter vessels and bareboats; and there are courses in boating safety, sailing, sculling, swimming, scuba diving (introductory), and kayaking. Winds of Ireland ( 863-5090) at the Boathouse offers sailing cruises during the day and at sunset, as well as Sea Doos, sailboat, and inflatable rentals. Also from the Boathouse the Spirit of Ethan Allen II departs on scenic, sunset, and moonlight cruises, as well as special trips for the Green Mountain Follies, mystery dinner theater, and captain’s dinner cruises ( 862-8300). Champ Charters ( 777-0940 or 372-4730) also leaves the Boathouse for fishing cruises – lake trout, landlocked salmon, and brown and steelhead trout. At Slip 30 there’s Captain Lou Vallee’s water limo for cruises and lessons in boat handling, with some lake history and snorkeling thrown in ( 351-0291). At the King Street Dock just south of the Boathouse you’ll find Lake Champlain Cruise & Charter ( 864-9804), a steamboat company that provides historic cruises along with tales of battles, legends, and shipwrecks, plus a telescope to search for the lake’s fabulous monster, "Champ." The King Street Dock is also where the ferry to Port Kent NY, leaves three times a day all summer and during foliage (call for times,  864-9804).

Sailing has always been a favorite sport on Lake Champlain, and a local team recently garnered a gold medal at an international Olympics competition. To get into the spirit of wings over the water, try a sailing cruise on the sloop Friend Ship, with Captain Mike LaVecchia. Cruises last two hours, include at least one lighthouse, and cost about $25 (children 12 and under $15); half-day and full-day sails can also be arranged. Reserve well in advance, especially for the September and October weeks of fall foliage: Whistling Man Schooner Company, Burlington Community Boathouse, PO Box 1811, Burlington, VT 05402 ( 862-7245, Web site www. whistlingman.com).

Marinas in Burlington include the Community Boathouse ( 865-3377), the Ferry Dock Marina ( 864-9804), and the City Dock Marina ( 862-7200).

In the Champlain Islands, boats are so much a part of life that the state park rangers will transport you over the water to your campsite on Knight Island! There are marinas at City Bay on North Hero (Hero’s Welcome,  372-4161; on the Bridge Road, Dunham’s Sea Ray,  372-5131); at Alburg (The Boatsmith, 796-3686); Grand Isle (Tudhope Sailing Center & Marina,  372-5320); and at South Hero (Apple Tree Bay Resort,  372-5398). Hero’s Welcome also offers kayak and canoe rentals. Sea Trek Charters ( 372-5391) has a 25-foot Baha cruiser fully equipped for trout and salmon fishing cruises. Pirate Charters ( 372-8357) also offers fishing cruises. The ferry from Grand Isle to Plattsburgh, NY runs year-round ( 864-9804).

Shelburne has the Shelburne Shipyard ( 985-3326), and the resort at Basin Harbor offers free dockage and mooring to restaurant and museum visitors (Basin Harbor Club,  475-2022). Addison also has a marina, Champlain Bridge Marina ( 800-SAY-AHOY). All the way down to where the lake is almost a river, at Chipman Point, reached from Orwell, is one more deepwater dock: Chipman Point Marina ( 948-2288).

Windsurfers head for Lake Iroquois in Williston – unless they’re going for the big lake, Champlain, where a good windsurfing launch is Oakledge Park, south of the downtown area.

Planning to fish the big lake Visit Schirmer’s Fly Shop at 34 Mills Avenue in South Burlington ( 863-6105) for gear, maps, and general outfitting. The Vermont Department of Fish and Wildlife (111 West Street, Essex Junction, VT 05452;  878-1564) puts out a Lake Champlain Fishing Guide with 16 detailed fishing charts, and tips on the lake’s gamefish, from trout to bass to pickerel and more. It’s available at most local Chamber of Commerce offices too.

Captain Jim LeClair’s Lake Champlain Charters ( 879-3680) is especially oriented toward fishing, and leaves from Perkins Pier in Colchester, just south of the ferry dock. Another fishing charter is Fish N Rigg with Captain Bill Gregorek (Charlotte,  425-3574).

Paul and Nancy Boileau offer Champ Charters ( 864-3790, Web site http://enhanced-design.com/champ) on their Champ IV, with home port at the Burlington Boathouse next to the Spirit of Ethan Allen II. Or check out Sure Strike Charters with Rich Greenough at the Perkins Pier ( 878-5074, Web site www.fishvermont.com).

"Jaw-dropping fantastic" is one description for the angling on this sixth Great Lake. Both smallmouth and largemouth bass are abundant, with plenty weighing three to four pounds. The lake is also abundantly stocked with brown trout, lake trout, salmon, and steelhead. (A tip for steelhead angling: experience the late March run at Lewis Creek in North Ferrisburgh for a good chance at this variety of rainbow trout. Egg sacks, egg imitations, night crawlers, and nymphs played along the bottom are all effective.) The landlocked Atlantic salmon are especially challenging to catch. Restoration of the big gamefish has been so successful that there is even hope for restoration of the lake sturgeon, a giant fish that was plentiful in the days of Samuel de Champlain (say, 1607); the fish don’t reach spawning age until they are 12 to 20 years old, so this is a very long-term project.

There are smaller pleasures here, too. The daily limit for yellow perch on lake Champlain is 75 fish or 30 pounds, whichever is greater; yellow perch can number 50, or 25 pounds; and crappie have a limit of 25. That’ll keep you busy even if you don’t leave the shore.

For advance information on the sport, contact some of the local groups: Braden Fleming at the Central Vermont Chapter of Trout Unlimited ( 878-5859); Larry Greene for the Lake Champlain Walleye Association ( 928-3336); Jim Edelman at the Bass Anglers Sportsman Society ( 893-6571); and the Lake Champlain Sportfishing Association, the newest local association (PO Box 52, Essex, VT 05453).

Pick up maps through West Marine at 861 Williston Road (in the Staples Plaza next to Interstate 91;  865-8064).

Scuba diving is just catching on here in a big way as technology improves and shops to service the sport grow. At its deepest, Lake Champlain goes to 400 feet, and extreme divers have now plumbed it to about 265 feet. But most pleasure divers will focus on, say, the shipwrecks already marked out by the Vermont Division of Historic Preservation, which should be contacted for maps and guidelines ( 457-2022). The wrecks are the Horse Farm, the Coal Barge, and the General Butler off the Burlington shore, the Phoenix by Colchester, and the Diamond Island Stone Boat at Vergennes. They are marked with Coast Guard-approved buoys and are open to the scuba diving community. You can also get maps of the Lake Champlain dive and historic sites from Dive Research, Inc. (PO Box 817, Williston VT 05495;  985-8863). Supporting equipment suppliers include Victory Sports in Colchester ( 862-0963) and the Waterfront Diving Center on Battery Street in Burlington ( 865-2771 or 800-283-SCUBA).

If you’re just going into the water for a swim, the choices are wide. Head north of downtown Burlington to North Beach City Park (from North Avenue take Institute Road west to the beach), with its sandy beach half a mile long and great views of the lake and mountains. Just north of this beach is the one at Leddy Park. South of the downtown region is Oakledge Park, a rockier beach. The next park south is Red Rocks, with its dramatic views from the 70-foot cliffs, but also with a beach at the southern end of the park.

Outside Burlington, there is a small beach at Bayside Park on Mallets Bay to the north. Milton offers a very large and lovely beach at Sand Bar State Park, by the southern connection to the Lake Champlain Islands.

The closest downhill skiing to Burlington is out in Bolton Valley or at the small tow-rope slope at Cochran’s in Richmond. But there’s a thriving Nordic ski center just out of town: the Catamount Family Center in Williston (take Route 2 east from Burlington to the North Williston Road, turning left and going a mile to a right turn onto the Gov. Chittenden Road; the center is on the right;  879-6001). With 64 miles of groomed trails and an 850-foot skating oval, the center stays busy once the snow flies. Activities also include ice skating, snowshoeing, sledding, weekly races, and cutting your own Christmas tree! Rentals and lessons are available.

In St. Albans there’s a 27-mile Rail Trail for Nordic skiing, and at Aldis Hill Park there’s still an old-fashioned rope tow for skiing, as well as sledding, hiking, and snowboarding. Snowmobile trails come right to town.

The trails at the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge, two miles north of Swanton on Route 78, are open to cross-country skiers; see Eco-Travel below for details.

Lake Champlain in winter does freeze, and the ice is thick enough to support ice fishing shacks and you can even drive on it sometimes. But there are always thin places, and your best bet is to stick with places where others are already moving around. Breaking through ice into cold water is usually a deadly experience. On the other hand, there’s a party mood on the ice once it’s thick enough, and you’d hate to miss out. Remember, ice fishing requires a Vermont fishing license.

Sleigh rides at Shelburne Farms ( 985-8442) are offered daily during the Christmas-to-New Year’s break and on weekends for the rest of the snow season.

Some skaters like lake ice and flock to Lake Champlain; others prefer the closer quarters and more controlled surface of a rink, and there are two good ones in this region: in Burlington at Leddy Park ( 864-0123, rentals available), and in St. Albans at the Collins-Perley Sports Center ( 527-1202; be sure to call ahead to find out which hours are open skating periods, as this rink is used by hockey teams).

Paragliding, a cross between parachuting and hang gliding, is the least expensive and simplest form of flying you can try. With gear that weighs only 20-25 pounds, and a takeoff from a small hill in a good wind, an inflated canopy shaped like an aircraft wing can support you on a flight of five or 10 minutes. More expert flights in the Green Mountains can last several hours. In Burlington, Parafly Paragliding offers ground school near the waterfront and short flights at Cobble Hill in nearby Milton, where flyers can start with their toes just a few feet off the ground and learn skills like glider inspection, self-launch, turns, and landing. Lessons begin as soon as the snow melts; call Rick Sharp and Ruth Masters at  800-PARAFLY.

Vermont Skydiving Adventures ( 759-3483) on Route 17 in West Addison invites you to make an appointment for a tandem, static line, or accelerated free-fall jump, jumping the same day as your lesson; they are open Tuesday to Sunday in the snow-free weather, from 9 a.m. to sunset.

The Lake Champlain Balloon Festival takes place at the Champlain Valley Fairgrounds, on Route 15 in Essex Junction, usually around Memorial Day. Some 50 hot-air balloons arrive, and there are rides, skydivers, games and exhibits. Count on fireworks if the weather is good. For details, contact the Lake Champlain Balloon Festival, PO Box 83, Underhill Center VT 05490;  899-2993.

Long-time environmental educator Michele Patenaude is a natural history guide based in the Lake Champlain Islands. Her specialty is birdwatching, and she has monitored osprey breeding for the Vermont Department of Fish and Wildlife. Call to discuss group walks, workshops, and tours ( 372-4864, e-mail SouthHero@aol.com).

Give yourself the gift of a visit to the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge, on Route 78 two miles northwest of Swanton. In this 6,338-acre refuge of woods, wetlands, and the river delta are migratory songbirds, waterfowl, birds of prey, resident mammals and more. You may see a family of white-tailed deer across the creek from you, or watch a flock of Canada geese take off in spring or fall. The refuge is open year-round, and can be toured either on foot or by boat (or both). In winter you can explore it on Nordic skis. Just check in with the refuge manager when you arrive and pick up maps, trail guides, and wildlife checklists. In July and August you can pick blueberries, too. If you visit in spring or summer, be sure to bring insect repellent; you’ll also need boots, a hat, and sunscreen, as well as a compass if you go picking berries.

Take Route 78 west across the water from Swanton, keep going west to Alburg (watch for turns), and discover a 608-acre parcel of sand dunes and the longest south-facing beach in the state, newly available to the public in Alburg Dunes State Park. This is a "work in progress" just added to state lands in 1996. Another brand-new access to Lake Champlain is at Malletts Bay, just north of Burlington, where the state is still deciding how to use 290 acres of freshly available undeveloped land.

South of Burlington there’s another wildlife management area, Dead Creek (named for the way the water backs up from Lake Champlain), between the Vergennes area and Addison. It’s best visited by canoe on the navigable creek of some 10 miles, among 2,814 acres of refuge. Check in at the area headquarters on Route 17 one mile west of Addison (or by mail from Dead Creek WMA, RFD1, Box 130, Vergennes VT 05491) to get an up-to-date map and any cautions about nesting birds. The map shows a road parallel to Route 17 where you can put a canoe into the creek, just west of the bridge. Spring and fall, when migratory birds come through, are especially good times to visit this refuge.

The Radisson ( 800-333-3333, $$-$$$) is Burlington’s waterfront hotel, on Battery Street with views of Lake Champlain’s spectacular sunsets and the mountains in the distance. It has 255 guest rooms and several dining choices. Located next to the Church Street Marketplace, it’s perfect for downtown shopping and theater-going. The city’s other large hotel is the Sheraton Burlington Hotel and Conference Center ( 865-6600, $$-$$$$), on the Williston Road (Route 2) between the city and the airport. The Sheraton has 310 rooms and a restaurant and pub with weekend entertainment.

Almost every major hotel chain has lodgings in Burlington, mostly along the Williston Road (Route 2) leading east out of the city, along Route 7 south (the Shelburne Road), and in nearby Winooski and Essex. The Inn at Essex ( 878-1100 or 800-727-4295, $$$-$$$$) has fireplaces in 30 of its rooms; its restaurants are operated by the New England Culinary Institute and serve fine cuisine, allowing the inn to proclaim "over 118 chefs and students at your service."

Dozens of small inns and bed-and-breakfast homes are available; the Lake Champlain Chamber of Commerce ( 863-3489) offers a Bed & Breakfast Guide, or you can stop by the Chamber office at 60 Main Street and browse through the racks of lodging brochures. Two that are a little different are 288 Maple Street ( 863-2033, $$-$$$), an elegant Grand Victorian home in the heart of the city’s historic hill section, with a view of the lake and mountains; and Willow Pond Farm Bed & Breakfast ( 985-8505, $$) at 20 Cheesefactory Lane in South Burlington, where the 200 acres of pasture, woods, and meadows provide hiking, cross-country skiing, and strolling through the gardens.

Since the interstate highway system linked Vermont’s major cities, Route 15 out of the Burlington area has mellowed into a quiet rural road. Pick it up from Exit 15 of Interstate 89 (the northern Burlington exit, marked for Winooski and Essex Junction), and head east through the congested area of Essex Junction’s shopping district, then enjoy the shift to wide open vistas as you emerge in Essex itself. Watch for the right turn onto Essex Way for one of the state’s large and elegant hostelries, the Inn at Essex. This 97-room hotel is enjoys the presence of the New England Culinary Institute in its kitchens, and dining is an endless adventure. For fall foliage season, reserve months ahead; at other times, getting a room is easier ( 878-1100 or 800-727-4295, www.innatessex.com, $$$-$$$$).

There are two very special and very different lodgings less than 12 miles southeast of Burlington. In the bustling small town of Richmond is the Richmond Victorian Inn B&B, 191 Main Street (Route 2), where you can walk to nearby shops and enjoy baked treats at Daily Bread, a town tradition that’s half bakery, half coffee shop. Gail M. Clark is your host at the inn. Since she loves to canoe and to ski, both downhill and cross-country, she’ll encourage you to sample the area’s opportunities. She also provides transportation to and from the Long Trail for hikers ($$-$$$;  434-4410 or 888-242-3362; Web site http://together.net/~gailclar).

By the Old Mill Stream, on the Richmond Road in Hinesburg, isn’t in town at all. It sits on six acres with a cascading waterfall in the backyard. Michelle and Steve Fischer will give you directions to the 1867 Colonial and pamper you with breakfast treats like pumpkin gingerbread waffles or lemon-blueberry pancakes. "Well-behaved" children are welcome; so are anglers, who can expect to talk fish with Steve, an avid fly-fisherman who’ll share of his favorite some spots to try your cast. The inn is open all year ($$;  482-3613, e-mail stream@together.net).

Keep in mind that accommodations and restaurants on the islands cut way back after Columbus Day. Always call ahead. The tried and true favorites are Ruthcliffe Lodge ( 928-3200, $$) on Isle La Motte, and Shore Acres ( 372-8722, $$) at North Hero; both have the feel of oceanfront resorts, with beach space and wide skies. Another friendly inn overlooking Lake Champlain is the Terry Lodge on West Shore Road in Isle La Motte, where Cherle and Matt Bean provide both a lodge and a tiny motel; breakfast and dinner are served to guests (  928-3264, $$-$$$$). The West Shore Cabins on Route 2 in North Hero provide a no-frills location to enjoy the spectacular sunsets ( 372-8832, $$).

The town of Alburg is north of the islands, on a spit of mainland hanging down from Canada that is still part of the United States. Here is the Thomas Mott Bed & Breakfast, hosted by Patrick J. Schallert, an amateur radio operator and former wine importer and distributor. In his 1838 farmhouse he offers cozy amenities like quilts, and up-to-date graces like ceiling fans and a game room. Canoeing, fishing, and cross-country skiing are all handy; the property has a dock extending into the lake. A full breakfast is served (Blue Rock Road, Alburg, 796-3736 or 800-348-0843, Web site www.virtualcities.com/ons/vt/a/vta3502.htm, $$).

Although it is a bed and breakfast in a modern building, the Inn at Charlotte ( 425-2934 or 800-425-2934, $$-$$$) still qualifies for the description "elegant, charming, and tranquil." Breakfasts here are unusual and delicious.

In Shelburne, fine lodging is found at the Inn at Shelburne Farms ( 985-8498, $$-$$$) from May to mid-October. Local bed and breakfasts include Best Friends ( 985-8185, $$), Elliot House ( 985-1412, $$-$$$), and the Shelburne Bed & Breakfast ( 985-2410, $$).

For a small informal motel that caters especially to families, try the Dutch Mill Motel, with its relaxed restaurant and adjacent campsites. Pets are allowed (although they must be on a leash) and kids are very welcome. There are two pools, a play area, horseshoe pits, laundry facilities, and more (2056 Shelburne Road, Shelburne,  985-3568; for camping,  985-2540, $-$$).

The Basin Harbor Club is an energetic resort with a touch of lakeshore elegance that dates back to 1886. Activities focus on the lake and there is a lot of attention paid to families. The resort has its own marina and 3,200-foot airstrip, as well as a world-class golf course. Nature trails wind through the 700 acres, and there is evening entertainment. (Basin Harbor Road,  475-2311 or 800-622-4000, e-mail res@bh-on-lc.com, Web site www.basinharbor.com, $$$$.)

There is a Comfort Inn at St. Albans ( 524-3300, $$), with 63 rooms and suites. For country comfort try Reminisce Bed & Breakfast on the Lake Road, in an 1830s farmhouse next to a working dairy farm ( 524-3907, $-$$).

In West Swanton there’s High Winds Bed & Breakfast ( 868-2521, $$) in an 1800s farmhouse. Or, go a mile and a half north of town on Route 7 to Country Essence Bed & Breakfast ( 868-4247, $$), bordering the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge.

The city of Burlington provides camping at North Beach Park, on the shores of Lake Champlain in 45 acres of woods and beach. North Beach Campground ( 862-0942) has 16 RV sites, 15 trailer sites, and 67 tent sites, as well as a beach bath house and full-service snack bar. Enter the nine-mile Burlington Bike Path from the park. Boat rentals and charters are nearby. A way of life different from any other campground in Vermont is found at Lone Pine ( 878-5447) on the Bay Road in Colchester. There are daily events at the rec hall, and weekends often bring shows, dances, and meals like corn roasts or barbecues. Folks driving RVs here will appreciate the RV resort in South Hero, Apple Tree Bay Resort, offering nightly activities, pool, beach, playground, marina, and nine-hole golf course (PO Box 183, South Hero, VT 05486-0183,  372-5398).

The state parks in this region offer some of the best camping. Two are on the St. Albans side of St. Albans Bay: Burton Island ( 524-6353) and the remote 125-acre island campground of Wood’s Island ( 524-6353) are reached only through Burton Island State Park by private boat. Knight Island, another remote island campground, is closer to North Hero and has only seven campsites on the 200-acre island; contact Burton Island for reservations and the schedule of boat rides out to the island. On the Lake Champlain Islands, the state park campgrounds are at Grand Isle State Park ( 372-4300) and North Hero State Park ( 372-8727).

Dining out in this city is a full-time occupation. Two of the best loved places for fine dining are on the Shelburne Road (Route 7) in South Burlington: Pauline’s ( 862-1081), with seafood, game birds, veal, duckling, and locally grown and produced foods blended into elegant regional cuisine; and Perry’s Fish House ( 862-1300), accompanying the salmon, catfish, oysters, mussels, trout and more with Vermont-grown produce for delicious dining. And in nearby Essex (just a little farther up Route 15), turn right onto Essex Way for an elegant meal at the Inn at Essex, a major hotel, where dining is provided by the New England Culinary Institute (70 Essex Way,  878-1100).

Zap your tastebuds with the many varieties of Asian feasts available at the Five Spice Café ( 864-4045) on Church Street, or with Tex-Mex specialties at Coyote’s Café ( 865-3632), also on Church Street. The Daily Planet ( 862-9647) on Center Street off the Church Street Marketplace is a traditional meeting place for local businesspeople and writers. So is Carbur’s ( 862-4206) on St. Paul Street across from City Hall Park, with its 16-page menu and famous French onion soup. Also on St. Paul Street is the Trattoria Delia ( 864-5253) for fresh pastas, local fish and game, and fresh-baked breads. Sweetwaters ( 864-9800) in the Church Street Marketplace is a European-style bistro with outdoor café. Breakfast at Henry’s Diner ( 862-9010, 155 Bank Street around the corner from the Marketplace) is a Burlington tradition too.

For exquisite baked goods and excellent coffees and teas, try Mirabelle’s (198 Main Street,  658-3074; or at the waterfront in the Wing Building,  658-1466). Chocolate fanciers will want to stop at Lake Champlain Chocolates ( 864-1807) on Pine Street. Microbrewery tasters can find the Magic Hat Brewing Company ( 658-2739) at 180 Flynn Avenue and take a tour on Wednesday through Saturday afternoons.

When you’re counting pennies (or trying to feed teenagers), Paradise Burritos is good to know about. Walk downstairs from the sidewalk of the Church Street Marketplace to 88 Church Street ( 660-3603, open Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.). There are bounteous buffet lunches for about $5 each at the Orchid Garden in South Burlington, found by returning to Interstate 91 and crossing it on Main Street, which then becomes Williston Road. Turn right on Dorset Street, pass Barnes & Noble on your left, and watch for the little "Blue Mall," also on the left. Orchid Garden ( 658-3626) is behind the roadside bed and bath shops. You’ll see University Mall on the other side of Dorset Street, where you can get a mall-type quick meal or snack if you’re feeling the urge.

Nightlife in Burlington is lively year-round, and there’s always music. The town’s nickname is Queen City, a good description. Start at Leunig’s at 115 Church Street ( 862-5306) for dinner and a glass of wine, whether indoors or at a sidewalk table, and make the most of the live music, jazz, or cabaret, on Tuesdays through Thursdays. On the weekends the club scene is hopping: there’s Nectar’s (188 Main Street,  658-4771), where the group Phish got its start, and upstairs from Nectar’s at Club Metronome ( 865-4563); the rock-riddled and funky 242 Main (at 242 Main Street, of course,  862-2244); and Vermont Pub & Brewery at 144 College Street ( 865-0500).

In Williston, the next town north and barely separate from Burlington, Higher Ground (1 Main Street,  654-8888) hosts many a headline performer; recent ones included Tom Rush and Dr. John, as well as top reggae, jazz, and rock shows. For the full range of evening entertainment, pick up a free copy of Seven Days when you get to town, or check the club listing at www.bigheavyworld.com. Don’t forget to check who’s playing at the Flynn Theater ( 86-FLYNN), downtown, where solo performers, big ensembles, and nationally known acts arrive regularly.

On Friday and Saturday nights, The Comedy Zone at the Radisson Hotel (60 Battery Street,  658-6500) showcases nationally known comedians. There are usually two shows. Take in dinner at the hotel’s Seasons on the Lake award-winning restaurant to make a full evening of it (ask about dinner-and-show packages).

Perhaps the most interesting view out a restaurant window is at the Waterworks ( 655-2044) at the Champlain Mill in Winooski: you look right into the waters of the Winooski River, and especially in spring the surge and force are magnificent to watch. Libby’s Blue Line Diner ( 655-0343), with its friendly atmosphere and home-cooked food, is just a short way up Winooski’s Main Street, which becomes Roosevelt Highway.

A stop at the Lincoln Inn ( 878-3309), a century-old landmark at the town’s five corners intersection, lets you sample the restaurant’s "good old American basics," like the open-faced steak sandwich, as well as Greek specialties and reliably delicious desserts.

Keep in mind that restaurants and attractions on the islands cut way back after Columbus Day. Always call ahead. Do stop in the summer or early fall at Ruthcliffe Lodge ( 928-3200) on Isle La Motte and Shore Acres ( 372-8722) at North Hero; both serve excellent meals. Hero’s Welcome ( 372-4161) in North Hero makes good sandwiches and has its own bakery and café.

Dine in classic American style at the Basin Harbor Club ( 475-2311 or 800-622-4000), where you can choose among three restaurants: the Main Dining Room, the casual Red Mill, and the Ranger Room, situated between the golf course and the swimming pool.