Secure and private between the Green Mountains to the west, the Connecticut River to the east, and Canada at the northern boundary, the Northeast Kingdom is the corner of Vermont best preserved, slowest to change, and least populated. There are actually town sites with no people in the far northeastern corner of the state; shy loons and peregrine falcons nest here, and if you spend a few days on the river roads in the spring you are almost sure to see a moose.

Hikers, skiers, and anglers know the Kingdom best. There are hilltops and forests to seek out where you may be the only human visitor that day. But there are also friendly villages, several large towns with welcoming shops and attractions, and a tradition of hospitality in guest homes, cottages, and small inns. It’s a scrap of real frontier, where you’ll get to stretch your sense of adventure.

A standard rural saying is "You can’t get there from here," and it was true about the Northeast Kingdom until the 1970s, when Interstate 91 sliced its way northward. Now the Kingdom has three gateway towns. The largest (population about 7,600) is St. Johnsbury, where Interstate 91 enters the area from the south, Route 2 heads off to Maine, and Interstate 93 leaves for the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Newport, only six miles from the Canadian border, is the northern gateway, a small town with about 1,500 residents. And at the southwest edge of the Kingdom is the equally small town of Hardwick, once a granite-cutting center and now home to musicians and artists, cheesemakers and farmers.

Once an industrial center with mills all along the Connecticut, Moose, and Passumpsic rivers, St. Johnsbury has gracious old homes and stately buildings that date from more than a century ago. Exit 20 from the interstate takes you north into town on Railroad Street. For touring, take the first left up the hill off South Main Street, to the most architecturally interesting section.

Because the Fairbanks family thrived here, producing the Fairbanks platform scale since 1830, the town is endowed with the Fairbanks Museum and Planetarium, founded in 1889 as a natural history and science museum with its own planetarium. Now the museum’s trained meteorologists provide weather forecasts for much of Vermont. Virtually every kind of Northeast Kingdom mammal and bird is represented in the museum’s collections of taxidermy and paintings. In summer, there’s a learning center with live reptiles and small mammals. The museum is open year-round, and planetarium shows are held at least every Saturday (call for show hours;  748-2372).

St. Johnsbury’s other gem, just a block south of the museum on Main Street, is its Athenaeum ( 748-8291, open year-round, closed Sundays), the oldest art gallery in the country maintained in its original condition. With the Athenaeum’s 19th-century paintings and sculpture is the town library. You can get a walking map here that identifies the many Main Street homes designed by architect Lambert Packard in the Richardson Romanesque style. Across the road is an information kiosk, open summers and during the fall foliage season. For information at other seasons, drive south on Main Street and bear to the right with Route 2; the Chamber of Commerce is half a mile farther on the left.

When you return to Main Street, find a parking space and walk around the St. Johnsbury Academy, a gem of a school with a campus that wraps around South Main Street. The independent school accepts most of the students of St. Johnsbury and a dozen surrounding towns, but also draws about 200 boarding students each year, many of whom are Asian, lending a pleasant note of ethnic diversity.

The town’s two parallel business streets, Main Street and Railroad Street, are linked by east-west roads that are pretty steep. Do wander down Eastern Avenue from Main Street, though, to take a look inside the Catamount Arts Building, the town’s music, theater, and dance showcase with its own small gallery. Just past Catamount Arts is the impressive Masonic Hall, followed by an interesting octagonal home that has served recently as a funeral home and a florist. You can see the Passumpsic River at the bottom of the hill, with the still-used railroad tracks alongside it. A bicycle path along the river is underway.

Across the river to the east, where many of the Route 2 travelers are bound for Maine, are two landmarks where New England visitors have stopped each summer for generations: Maple Grove Farms (tours Monday through Friday except holidays,  748-5141), where maple sap is remade into maple syrup and leaf-shaped chunks of maple sugar candy, and the Farmer’s Daughter, a classic old (unheated) barn of a shop for traditional tourist treasures like balsam-stuffed pillows and sweet treats.

While you’re heading east on Route 2, just before you reach the Farmer’s Daughter, on the left, note the turn for Spaulding Road. There is usually a sign at this corner to direct you to Stephen Huneck’s gallery park, the whimsical Dog Mountain, 0.7 mile uphill on Spaulding Road and then left onto Parks Road. The cluster of buildings includes a workshop, gallery, and the chapel of St. Bernard, all dedicated to the loving relationship between people and their pets, mostly dogs but with a few things for cat-lovers. There are benches flanked by solemn carved black Labradors (or goldens if you prefer), full-size dog carvings to stand in your yard or by the front door, and playful notions described in numbered prints that portray the ultimate canine postures. The gallery is open from June through October (10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday 11 to 4), with other dates and times by appointment ( 748-2700, Web site www. huneck.com). Huneck’s work is internationally known, and he has five other galleries across the country. This location is his home base, so he may even be around to meet or to talk with about a custom design.

To the west and southwest of St. Johnsbury are the small picturesque villages known so well from Vermont Life photographs over the years. There’s Danville, where the American Society of Dowsers has its headquarters and where summer festivals flourish on the village green. Peacham has hillcrest homes and the friendly Bayley Hazen Country Store, which has settled into providing hearty soups and sandwiches, rich baked goods, local crafts and, of course, maple syrup. Call ahead to have a lunch made up for you ( 592-3630). The store is at the intersection a mile south of Peacham village, where the road to West Barnet connects.

Barnet has five village centers, each with a different character. West Barnet focuses on the summer haven of Harvey’s Lake (also an ice-fishing spot). Barnet Center is a maple sugaring area and home to a picturesque old church and cemetery; and in Barnet village itself are two Tibetan Buddhist retreat centers, Karme Choling ( 633-2384, e-mail karmecholing@shambhala. org) and the Milarepa Center ( 633-4136). Karme Choling is the larger of the two, founded in 1970 and focused on Buddhist and Shambhala teachings, with year-round courses and retreats, and festivals that draw hundreds of people. Milarepa shares the traditional lineage of the Dalai Lama, has Tibetan monks and nuns in residence from time to time, and offers small retreats and workshops. The two are on opposite sides of Barnet Mountain. Karme Choling is reached from the road between Barnet and Barnet Center, and Milarepa from Route 5 just north of Barnet village. The other two villages within Barnet are on the Passumpsic River: both Passumpsic and McIndoe Falls villages have small hydropower dams and nice picnic spots by the resulting waterfalls.

With two Buddhist retreat centers in one village, Barnet portrays a fresh sense of New England’s heritage of spiritual seeking that dates back to the Great Awakening, and even to the arrival of the Pilgrims. Just up School Street from the traditional general store is the brightly painted home of Samadhi Cushions, a Karme Choling offshoot that crafts mediation cushions in round and square shapes and bold colors. Open from 8 to 4 on weekdays, the small cushion showroom sometimes offers other enrichments for the thoughtful life, such as books and decorative items ( 633-4440 or 800-331-7751).

Neighboring Peacham, less eclectic spiritually with its simple Congregational Church, happens to have one of the finest church organs around, and local musicians whose talents are sophisticated enough to take full advantage of the deep rich sound. When you’re in the area, check store bulletin boards to see who is performing there and when. Across the road and up the hill from the Peacham Congregational Church is a small archaeological site at a former blacksmith building, often open to the public; the historical society collection is a bit farther up the hill on the same side. Peacham residents enjoy local history so much that they’ve put together an annual event called the Ghost Walk, when residents costume themselves as noted Peacham characters of the past and converse with visitors, sharing anecdotes about the person and the time. This event, usually scheduled during the Fourth of July weekend, has often been held at the cemetery, hence the name "Ghost Walk." For details,  592-3432, e-mail senturia@connriver.net.

Barnet and Peacham, along with Marshfield, Walden, Cabot, Plainfield, Groton, and St. Johnsbury, also collaborate in the Northeast Kingdom Fall Foliage Festival, a 10-day series that usually begins during the last week of September and features history, country living, craft shows, and especially Vermont foods, with church suppers and local traditions like West Barnet’s European Coffee Hour (ask about how the traditions arose in each village). For information,  563-2472, or check the Web site, www.vermontnekchamber.org.

These three small towns host an endless series of summer and fall events, from church suppers to fireworks. Details about the Fourth of July display at Joe’s Pond are on page 294. Smaller and more intriguing is the Fourth of July Gala at Peacham, where local residents perform the roles of founding families buried in the cemetery (see the Ghost Walk, above), the old blacksmith shop shows off anvil work as well as a tiny archaeological "dig," and you can compete at horseshoes.

The old-time sport of horseshoes is also part of Lake Harvey Day in West Barnet, held on the third weekend of July at Harvey’s Lake. Plan to swim at the beach, but bring warm clothes for the long evening, which begins with a chicken barbecue and ends with fireworks over the water.

And for one of the smallest and friendliest summer fairs, try the Danville Fair on the first weekend of August, where the rides are still fun for kids, the cotton candy is perfect, and the bingo tables and flower exhibits are traditional favorites; there’s a wide variety of food, from salads to grilled items to ice cream, and the whole town gathers for the parade in the morning and the music in the evening (for this year’s date contact the Danville Town Clerk at  684-3352).

Autumn foliage draws many visitors to the back roads and villages, and eight towns of the Northeast Kingdom collaborate for the eight-day Northeast Kingdom Foliage Festival during the last week of September. For a listing of the dozens of events and dinners, contact the Fall Festival Committee, PO Box 54, West Danville, VT 05873-0054 (Web site www.vermontnekchamber.org).

When you travel north from St. Johnsbury, the quickest route with the best long-distance vistas is Interstate 91, especially when it rises over Sheffield Heights, a 1,900-foot elevation that divides two watersheds, north-flowing rivers and south-flowing ones. (Howard Mosher’s book and movie, Where the Rivers Flow North, is set in the part of the Kingdom north of this divide.)

But to connect with the road to East Burke, home of Burke Mountain, or to visit the Bread and Puppet Theater’s home in Glover on Route 122, it’s easier to take Route 5, the older "shadow" road that parallels the interstate. The large town north of St. Johnsbury is Lyndonville, a college town with both the elegance of more Lambert Packard designs and the rough-and-ready feel of country agricultural fairgrounds.

At the north end of Lyndonville, Route 5 continues north and soon sends a branch, Route 5A, to Lake Willoughby, a spectacular glacial gouge rimmed with cliffs and notable hikes. Peregrine falcons nest to the east of the lake. Hikers use the trails on Mount Pisgah, Mount Hor, and Wheeler Mountain, where the best climbs are.

Leaving Route 5’s North Lyndonville intersection to the right, Route 114 heads northeast to East Burke, the ski and hiking resort at Burke Mountain, and the state park around it.

These two small towns are reached from Route 5 or Interstate 91 (Exit 25). If you take Route 5 from Lyndonville you’ll pass lovely Crystal Lake, with its public beach and good small-boat sailing just before you pull into the center of Barton. Turn left onto Route 16; in half a mile you’ll see the right turn to the county fairgrounds, used mainly in August for a big and merry agricultural fair. Interstate 91 is just ahead on Route 16; to the southwest of the interstate is Sugarmill Farm Maple Museum ( 525-3701, call for hours).

Another mile past the maple museum brings you to the village of Glover, where Currier’s is an old-fashioned general store with baked goods, a meat counter (they’ll butcher your wild game if needed), and all kinds of hardware and fishing gear. When you finish browsing, continue down Route 16 another mile to the left onto Route 122; the Bread and Puppet Museum ( 525-3031) is about a mile up the hill and houses hundreds of masks and giant puppets used by the noted political theater group in its international performances. You may hear about the noted Bread and Puppet Domestic Resurrection Circus, a local summer event, but this has been discontinued due to overgrown "counterculture" crowds. The theater group still offers modest performances on summer evenings to try out its show before going on the road. Check the local newspaper, The Chronicle, or ask at the museum.

This picture-perfect village lies on the west shore of Lake Willoughby and is a photographer’s dream. Stop at Bill and Billie’s Lodge at the center of "town" to rent a "boat with motor" and see whether there’s a "housekeeping unit" available for the night. Half a mile south is the Blue Anchor, another home-grown cottage setup with a modest gift shop; another 1.3 miles south on Route 5A takes you to the trailhead for Willoughby State Forest. A waterfall cascades down the steep slope, 3.5 miles south of the village.

From the center of Westmore you can also visit a state park in the process of being born, so to speak. You’ll find a small memorial park on the lakeshore, and across Route 5A is Hinton Hill Road. Take this steeply climbing side road exactly one mile and you’ll find Sentinel Rock on your left. This glacial erratic overlooks both Lake Willoughby and the range of the Green Mountains. The distant peak with a double mound on top is Camel’s Hump, the really large mountain to the north of it is Mt. Mansfield, and the one even farther north that looks like it has a tooth sticking to the top is Jay Peak (the "tooth" is the gondola top and ski lodge). Sentinel Rock and 365 acres around it are a gift from Windsor and Florence Wright, whose family owned the land from 1947. Soon there will be a sign that says "Sentinel Rock State Park," and maybe a few other gentle changes like paths to walk on — but the local dairy farmer is allowed to keep his Holsteins pasturing the fields.

Yes, the road past the new state park does "go somewhere": both forks pass over the ridge and down to Route 105 between East Charleston and Island Pond. The road is rough but really lovely, a perfect scenic drive toward the quietest part of the Northeast Kingdom (see Island Pond).

On its way north from Barton and Glover, Route 5 enters the manufacturing town of Orleans, best known as home to one of the plants building Ethan Allen furniture. Ethan Allen was one of Vermont’s Revolutionary War-era patriots; his brother Ira had his name incorporated in the next village to the northwest, Irasburg. Orleans is also noted as the location to watch spawning rainbow trout leap upriver in mid-May. Ask in town for directions to the best viewing spot.

For a lovely drive on back roads and a chance to see a collection of Vermont historical artifacts in an unusual old school, take Route 58 east out of Orleans and in about a mile make the well-marked left turn onto the road to Brownington, another three miles north. When you reach the cluster of homes that represents the old village, there is a right turn, also well marked, onto Old Stone House Road, to the Old Stone House. Here is the school building erected by Alexander Twilight, perhaps the nation’s first person of African heritage to be a college graduate and legislator. He was a teacher and minister, and the 30-room school he erected of granite blocks now houses the collection of the Orleans Historical Society. It’s open Friday-Tuesday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m., in late May and June and in the fall; in July and August it is open daily (admission charged). Tours can be scheduled in advance ( 754-2022, http://homepages.together.net/~osh). Leave extra time to stroll around the historic neighborhood of homes and to climb the observatory tower on Prospect Hill (see Eco-Travel).

Beyond Burke, Route 114 goes on to Island Pond, the last group of shops and eateries before the wild lands of Essex County open up, with their noted deer and moose populations and internationally known snowmobile trail network. The French-Canadian influence is clear in Island Pond; listen for the lilt of Quebecois accents around town, and watch for the license plates that say Je me souviens — "I remember" — on many of the cars.

Taking Route 114 north out of Island Pond will lead you toward the border town of Norton, a quiet village where hunting, fishing, and forestry make up the fabric of life. Visit the small border station, then turn right on Route 114 to reach Canaan and the bridge into New Hampshire at West Stewartstown.

Much of the land along the Connecticut River is likely to be incorporated soon into the Silvio O. Conte National Park, an unusual effort designed to simply preserve the Connecticut watershed from development.

If you choose not to go out to the quiet wooded area along the border, you can still take Route 114 north out of Island Pond but, when you are 2.5 miles out of town, turn left onto Route 111. This lovely road winds through Morgan Center and Morgan, among dairy farms and horse paddocks, and along the shoreline of Seymour Lake, and there are local housekeeping cottages, lodges, and guide services, not to mention the Village Sportsman, a home-based business by the lake where a local angler sells streamer flies to the trout seekers. The long public beach at Seymour is a special summer treat. Route 111 eventually reaches Derby (see Newport description), and brings you back to the world of fast food and gift shops.

Newport’s charm is its position at the south end of Lake Memphremagog (pronounced Mem-fre-MAY-gog), a 30-mile international lake with excellent sailing and good swimming in the summer months. In winter the lake is a busy thoroughfare for skaters and snowmobilers and the occasional ice boat. Doug Nelson’s elk farm is in Derby Center (at the intersection of Routes 5 and 105). Best time to see the elk is at 4 p.m. feeding. Please stay behind the fences, and keep pets in the car. Among the other attractions are the fishing lakes to the southeast — Salem, Seymour, and Echo.

Newport’s vista to the west is dominated by Jay Peak, with the lodge at the top giving an unmistakeable jagged tooth at the summit. Route 105 takes you out of Newport to the west, where you follow a well-marked set of turns on Routes 100, 101, and 242 to reach the village of Jay. Jay Peak, elevation 3,861 feet, is just west of the village. The Long Trail reaches the Canada border by crossing the ski slopes at Jay, and hikers celebrate completing their end-to-end Vermont trek; the northernmost piece of trail is also a great day hike. At Jay Peak and on the country roads beyond it are fine restaurants and plentiful lodging.

Take Route 242 to the west of Jay down the mountain to the river town of Montgomery Center and, to the right on Route 116, Montgomery, where seven covered bridges show what a busy rural center this once was. Two are next to Route 118: the Fuller or Blackfalls Bridge across Black Falls Creek, dating from 1890, and the 1863 Longley or Harnois Bridge over the Trout River. Travel south of Montgomery Center on Route 118 to the hamlet once called Hutchins, and find the Hutchins Bridge (1883) over the south branch of the Trout River, and the Hectorsville Bridge (also 1883) on the same river, but to the west side of Route 118. Other Montgomery covered bridges are Hopkins (1875), the Comstock (1883), and the Creamery (1883).

There is a third gateway town into the Kingdom: Hardwick, where you enter this three-county region if you drive north on Route 14 from the center of the state. Although the match hasn’t been friction-free, Hardwick residents have taken to hosting an annual reggae fest ( 985-8446) at the end of July, a lively music festival in an outdoor amphitheater. Hardwick’s downtown district is a tiny arts oasis, and the Craftsbury Chamber Players perform here most Thursday evenings in the summer at the Hardwick Town Hall (the Hardwick Town Clerk will often be able to confirm this year’s dates,  472-5971). Nearby are the retreat areas of Greensboro and Craftsbury, long-time picturesque summer havens and now Nordic ski centers. Craftsbury is especially lovely, with white homes and churches surrounding a wide green at Craftsbury Common, and back roads rising to small hill farms. Greensboro has been a summer home to many writers and public figures, notably author Wallace Stegner; the wide clear waters of Caspian Lake welcome boaters and anglers, as well as swimmers.

The largest wild region in the Kingdom is Groton State Forest. Its 25,000 acres of forest include miles of hiking trails and five campgrounds, each relating in a different way to the wild land around it. Black bears, deer, moose, grouse, mink, beavers, otters, fisher cats (a large weasel), loons, and great blue herons live at Groton State, and there are plenty of fish and even a pond devoted only to fly-fishing. Peacham Bog Natural Area (700 acres) contains one of the largest bogs in Vermont, with rare orchids and unusual birds. There’s also a small mountain, Owl’s Head, where the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s built stone steps for hikers, to protect the alpine ecosystem around the trail.

Reach the park from either St. Johnsbury or Hardwick by heading for Route 2 and going eight miles past Danville to the well-marked Route 232 south. You’ll want a trail and facility map, which you can pick up from the rangers at any of the campgrounds during summer and the early weeks of foliage season, or during winter and spring from the Department of Forests, Parks and Recreation (103 South Main Street, Waterbury, VT 05671-0603;  241-3655). At about two miles from Route 2 you arrive at the first campground, New Discovery, on your right; the trail to the left from Route 232 goes up toward Burnt Mountain and Marshfield Mountain, and may be restricted in early spring when peregrine falcons breed on the cliffs above Marshfield Pond. This is a really exciting comeback for a bird that had been driven to near-extinction by the combined forces of DDT and land development.

Park at New Discovery and hit the trails for Owl’s Head Mountain, Little Deer Mountain, Big Deer Mountain, and around Osmore Pond. You can also hike from here to the Nature Center near Big Deer Campground, or take the trails to the east of Lake Groton and after four miles end up at Boulder Beach for a swim. The trail into Peacham Bog cuts off between the Nature Center and the beach. Trails are blazed; check with the rangers about recent changes from the maps and about moose activity.

Owl’s Head is the most popular hike in the forest, especially on clear days when there’s a view, so go early. For a good workout, select one of the steep, direct trails up the rocky north slope while skirting the scree and south-side cliffs. Owl’s Head plants to notice include dwarf mountain laurel and an occasional crisp carpet of alpine lichens; large holes torn in this "rug" are where winter-starved deer have settled for second-best feeding.

When you reach the top of Owl’s Head (plan on one to two hours, depending on whether you take trails or not), check your map to help identify the peaks. To the west are Camel’s Hump and Mount Mansfield; to the northwest, with its jagged toothlike top, Jay Peak, which straddles the Canadian border; and to the east, on a clear day, the Presidential Range in New Hampshire.

An alternate way of hiking the forest is to use the old railbed of the Montpelier-Wells Railroad, which runs some 14 miles through the forest. Check your map for turnoffs to the southwestern, wilder section of the forest, and to Kettle Pond, where there’s a special group camping area on one shore and isolated campsites on the other that can best be reached by canoe. Avoid drinking water near the ponds, as beaver spread the human intestinal parasite Giardia in these lower waterways; instead, wait to sip from chill mountain springs higher up. If you bushwhack up the slopes, small caves are on hand for easy rain shelter; large ones should be investigated for black bear before you enter. The black bear is shy and mostly vegetarian, but protective of cubs. You may find yourself sharing a berry patch with one occasionally, and will certainly see evidence of bear and deer having rested in high grass. Watch for tree trunks scraped by bear claws at about head height. A sign of recent deer browsing is the blunt, square-clipped ends of maple twigs that would otherwise have ended in fat buds or fresh leaves.

Besides New Discovery, the Groton State campgrounds are Stillwater (at the heart of the forest), Big Deer (near the Nature Center), Kettle Pond (with its group camping area) and, at the south end of where Route 232 cuts through the forest, Ricker Campground on Ricker Pond.

A special feature of this forest is a fly-fishing lake with its own lodge and rental boats. On the shore of the lake (which is called Noyes Lake) is Seyon Lodge, where private and semiprivate sleeping quarters and hearty meals are provided. Make reservations well in advance, as the lodge fills quickly for its only open months, those of trout fly-fishing season. From May to October, contact the Seyon Recreation Area, Groton, VT 05046,  584-3829; from November to April, contact the Park Regional Manager, Dept. of Forests, Parks and Recreation, 324 N. Main Street, Barre, VT 05641,  479-3241).

The lack of views in this 5,000-acre preserve keep the trails from being crowded with hikers. On the other hand, if you’ve got your heart set on seeing a moose, have been keeping a bird checklist, or know your bog plants and orchids well, this wildlife management area is waiting for you. (It’s heavily hunted during deer and moose seasons, though, so it’s better to stay away for at least the month of November.)

Access to the preserve is from Route 2 at the North Concord intersection, which is about 10_ miles east of St. Johnsbury; watch for Copp’s Store on the right. You want the left turn, marked Victory and Gallup Mills. From Route 2 it’s 4_ miles up the gravel road to the first parking area on the left (there are two more farther north). Park here and walk across the road, looking for the wooden bridge through the trees just south of where you’re standing. Cross the river on it and head either left (north) or right; you’re on an old woods road. To the south, it passes a stream gauge that lets canoeists and naturalists keep an eye on water level. To the north, it heads toward the 25-acre boreal bog and wetlands of 1,800 acres. You should have a compass with you, as well as drinking water; the dark water is colored with tannin, which isn’t a health problem, but the parasite Giardia in this and all beaver-inhabited waters can give humans a nasty intestinal infestation. Bring a camera so you won’t be tempted to "collect" the rare plants in any other way than taking their pictures! Remember, if you do see a moose, keep your distance; in fall especially, moose are unpredictable and dangerous.

There are many trails around this narrow and deep glacial lake, and they’re all interesting. The local favorite is the hike up Mount Pisgah on the east side of the lake, where the steep cliffs make for dramatic views. Just as challenging and with more rocks that are climbable is the hike from Route 5A on the west side, up Wheeler Mountain. These trails are not especially well-blazed, as they are old and have seen some wear; bring your Green Mountain Club Day Hiker’s Guide to Vermont and watch the landmarks closely. If you don’t want much human company, use the trails early in the day, and stay away from this area on the most lovely summer and foliage season days, when they do get crowded.

A new trail system around Burke Mountain provides miles of hiking. For details, stop at East Burke Sports ( 626-3215) in the village of East Burke.

Jay Peak Resort opens its trails to summer hikers, and there are plenty of interesting rambles on this steep mountainside. The northernmost part of the Long Trail rises up Jay Peak and then North Jay Peak, before descending to the Canadian border, and makes several good day hikes. The Green Mountain Club puts out a Long Trail Guide that does a nice job of splitting the trailway into three hikes; see the guide for details. An easy climb is to head up Route 105 through North Troy (note the border crossing station) and continue for eight miles west; there’s parking on your right. The Long Trail heads north with an easy climb up Carleton Mountain to a lookout, for a round trip of 2.4 miles; if you want to go farther, you can get some good ridge walking and a view north into Canada at Post 592, making a total round trip of 5.2 miles.

A different trek with more extensive views includes the summit of Jay Peak. From the village of Jay, go 5.1 miles west on Route 242 and park on the left. Head north on the Long Trail to the summit, 3,861 feet; the round trip is 3.4 miles and is a good stretch of those calf and shin muscles. Day hiking boots are suggested.

Island Pond is the name of both the village and the lake at this scenic center in Essex County; the surrounding town is actually named Brighton, and the park on the lake is Brighton State Park. Brighton State Park has nature trails and a summer naturalist in residence (as well as campsites, swimming beach, rental boats) and is a good place for a summer ramble. So is Maidstone State Park; to reach it from Island Pond, take Route 105 southeast 16 miles to Bloomfield and then after another five miles south, make the right turn onto five more miles of unpaved road. The forest offers hiking trails around a large lake.

There’s a 10,000-acre wildlife management area near the Canada border, reached from the village of Holland or from Route 114 north of Island Pond. If you want wilderness hiking with few cut trails and a real demand that you manage your compass and map well, the Bill Sladyk Wildlife Management Area was meant for you. Do get a topographic map before heading in, and study the few trails marked in the GMC’s Day Hiker’s Guide. Again, don’t fool around with the international border; because of drug traffic, it’s serious business to get close to it or cross it, and the border is well monitored.

There are week-long camp sessions for runners at both the Craftsbury Outdoor Center ( 586-7767 or 800-729-7751) and Lyndon State College (John Holland, Green Mountain Running Camp, 1720 Baptist Church Road, Yorktown Heights, NY 10598;  914-962-5238). It’s great to get pumping on those back-country roads and be able to soak your legs afterward in a cold mountain stream.

Although Essex County is relatively flat, there are few connecting roads. This means the best road biking in the Northeast Kingdom is actually around Craftsbury and in the circuit of Barnet, Peacham, Danville, St. Johnsbury; both of these loops are well described in John Freidin’s 25 Bicycle Tours in Vermont.

The roads that connect East Charleston, Island Pond, Morgan Center, and Morgan are perfect for road biking, with their gentle rolling curves, except for the presence of large logging trucks that may travel at a pretty high speed. Be aware of road traffic and use a biking rear-view mirror. These roads are so lovely that it’s worth the effort to travel them, and back roads like Five Mile Square and Ten Mile Square, which run between and in East Charleston and Island Pond, get you away from the road traffic almost entirely.

For mountain biking, on the other hand, the entire Kingdom is a playground. Focus on two centers where there is good support for pedaling: the Craftsbury Outdoor Center ( 586-7767 or 800-729-7751, Web site www.craftsbury.com, e-mail crafts@sover.net) has trails and summer programs for mountain bikers, and the area around East Burke, including the ski trails at Burke Mountain, is very accessible with support from East Burke Sports ( 626-3215, seven days). Rentals can be found at both locations; East Burke Sports does repairs, as does the Village Sports Shop ( 626-8448) on Route 5 just south of Lyndonville’s business center.

In Burke, the Kingdom Trails Association, spearheaded by the folks at East Burke Sports ( 626-3215), has put together 75 miles of interconnected trails for spring, summer, and fall, running along the ridgelines of East Burke with great long-distance views, and up through the ski are of Burke Mountain. A Victorian mansion and some lovely farms are along the routes, as well as fields and forests. Single-track trail abounds. A map detailing the trails and grading them (and also reserving one trail for hikers only) can be purchased at the sports shop in East Burke or by mail for $4 ($3 plus $1 handling) from Kingdom Trails Association, PO Box 204, East Burke, VT 05632.

Jay Peak ( 988-2611) offers aerial tram rides for experienced mountain bikers; the longest trail from the summit is five miles, and there’s a network of lower mountain trails and a wooded trail network. The trail fee is modest and can include use of the resort’s swimming pool all day.

One last, little-known trail: At Groton State Forest, the old railbed has been turned into a rec path with about 14 miles of pretty level pedaling through forest and over streams. Do explore the railroad ghost town of Lanesboro at the north edge of the state forest.

Some 48,000 acres of former logging land in Essex County, from Victory northward through East Haven and nearly out to Bloomfield, is entering the hands of the state of Vermont and is likely to be open to mountain biking on the gravel roads. Views are spectacular, and it wouldn’t be hard to put together a "century" trail on the land. Keep in touch with the Kingdom Trails Association (PO Box 204, East Burke, VT 05832,  626-3215) to find out the latest status; this is also likely to be where you’ll get a map of the trails as they emerge.

Vermont Mountain Bike Advocates (VMBA, PO Box 563, Waterbury, VT 05676, Web site www.vmba.org) also offers information on biking on state and private land; for updates on this particular region, called the Champion Lands Project after its former owner. There’s also news at the Vermont Land Trust Web site (www.vlt.org).

The Northeast Kingdom rivers have their best paddling at high water in spring, late April to early May, and that means you’re going to be traveling in "snowmelt" that hasn’t warmed up a lot. So here are some extra pointers for cold water paddling.

The Connecticut River has its source in four lakes in northern New Hampshire; by the time it reaches Vermont at the northern boundary, it’s runnable but small and quiet from Canaan to North Stratford. North Stratford to Guildhall is a peaceful 25-mile run, and the next 20 miles to South Lunenburg is also a gentle paddle. There are nesting swallows along the banks that provide interesting distraction; their nests are hollows in the mud banks, and the numbers are amazing. Consult the Appalachian Mountain Club River Guide to New Hampshire and Vermont for how to handle the Class II rapids that follow, and the dams that begin at Gilman. The section from Gilman to East Ryegate is broken up by numerous small dams. The River Guide gives an overview; you should check all the portages and anywhere that an old dam has stood, for changes in this river happen often.

The Passumpsic River has even more dams per running foot, so to speak, but is runnable well after other rivers are too low. From Lyndonville to the Connecticut River there are six dams, and some challenging ledges. Central Vermont Public Service has put out a free book on canoeing the Passumpsic, available at local bookstores and the Chamber of Commerce in St. Johnsbury; it’s chatty and fun to read, but snags, blowdowns, and degrading dams need to be checked right before you paddle.

The nicest part about paddling the Moose River is going quietly through the Victory Bog Wildlife Management Area. Save this paddle for when you’re truly in the mood for natural history rather than water excitement; birdlife is rampant, and you may well share the river with a moose browsing to the side.

For a guided tour of the waters to the northwest, connect up with Raven Ridge in Enosburg ( 933-4616 or 888-933-4616, Web site www.together.net/~ravenrdg). The team of Chas Salmon and Olga Lermontov has been recognized as 1999 Vermont Guide of the Year and offers canoe and kayak rentals and customized outings, complete with shuttle service, guided fishing, and even animal tracking and photographic opportunities. The couple refers to their work as "opening doors to the Natural World for people of all ages and abilities."

Flatwater paddling in the Northeast Kingdom pairs up well with angling or birdwatching. Look for the smaller ponds like Keyser (near Peacham), Ewell’s (between Peacham and Danville), and Harvey’s Lake (West Barnet; Harvey’s Lake Cabins and Campgrounds,  633-2213, rents rowboats and canoes). On these lakes you may see great blue herons and, in spring, loons and geese. Lake Groton is good for summer relaxation, although it’s pretty well settled around the shores. Crystal has a wider expanse but less interesting shoreline.

Vermont Waterways ( 472-8271 or 800-492-8271), based in East Hardwick, provides weekend paddling tours on the Vermont rivers, kayaking weekends on Lake Champlain, and some walk-and-paddle combos.

Windsurfers usually head for Willoughby, although the steady breezes at Harvey’s in West Barnet make it a good practice lake. Sailboats also do well at Willoughby, but the prevailing wind rarely changes and it’s a long series of tacks back again.

Lake Memphremagog is a much better sailing lake, with a prevailing wind from the north, and the islands make it even more fun; some of the islands were used by smugglers in the past century, especially rum runners. Pick up a good lake map at the marina in Newport. Don’t play around with the international border. If you do go across it, report in to Customs on shore, both on your way north and on the way back again. Although there’s no real island camping on the lake, there are plenty of spots to anchor near shore for the night if you want to stay out longer. Remember that most sightings of the "sea monster" of the lake, nicknamed Memphre, have been along the wilder west shore! Quietly motoring this lake after dark is peaceful and lovely. There are boat rentals at Newport Marine ( 334-5911), and two marinas — the city dock ( 334-5726), where you can also board Newport’s Princess ( 334-6617) for a cruise of the lake on a small paddlewheeler, and the East Side Landing ( 334-2340).

Boating on Greensboro Lake has a long history, and should be set up as a relaxing day with picnicking and plenty of time to spend; winds are not reliable. The Highland Lodge in Greensboro ( 533-2647) rents boats and has a nice beach from which to to launch. At the south end of Crystal Lake is another boat rental location ( 525-3904 or 525-4548).

What’s the best way to watch fireworks on Independence Day Maybe leaning back, well bundled up in your floatation vest plus a wool blanket, in a canoe or rowboat on Joe’s Pond in West Danville. Joe’s is really three small ponds joined by channels and surrounded by seasonal cottages (the traditional place to stay when you first arrive is Indian Joe Court, PO Box 126, West Danville 05873,  684-3430). Borrow or rent a boat and get out on the water on fireworks night for a sensation of falling stars cascading over you. Make sure you stay around until Sunday morning, too, in order to connect with the pontoon boat that carries Archie’s Bakery goods around the shore. Your other goal for the weekend might be to see how many versions you can find locally of the story of "Injun" Joe and Molly. Joe was a Native American and Molly was his wife, and the tale dates back to about 1745. (You’ll find Molly’s Pond to the southeast, just down Route 2, a great photo spot and birding location.)

At the Craftsbury Outdoor Center ( 586-7767 or 800-729-7751, Web site www.craftsbury.com, e-mail crafts@sover.net) there are courses in canoeing, but there’s also the specialized Craftsbury Sculling Center, with more than two decades of experience in individual and group coaching. Coached by Steve Wagner, head coach at Rutgers University, the program takes place on (and off) area lakes like the Hosmer Ponds, Great and Little. In winter the same group offers a rower’s cross-training weekend in snow sports.

At Brighton State Park there are boat rentals at the park office. Most cottage rentals around Salem Lake include boats, too. In the town of Island Pond, Mahoney’s General Store ( 723-6255) supplies sporting goods and, just west of town, Northern Wildlife ( 723-6659) rents canoes and sells fishing tackle and live bait.

If you’re angling in the Northeast Kingdom, you’ll probably go for the trout streams and the big lakes like Willoughby and Memphremagog. Jim Keely offers Memphremagog Bass Guide Service ( 334-6862); David Benware at Seymour Lake Lodge guides fly-fishing on lakes, ponds, rivers, and streams ( 895-2752 or 800-207-2752); and at Northeast Kingdom Outfitters in Morgan (east of Newport) there are casting clinics and guided fly-fishing trips ( 895-4220).

Northeast Kingdom Outfitters guide Dave Smith will also help you take advantage of a new asset: the recent and remarkable return of salmon to the Clyde River in Newport. A power dam that blocked the Clyde a mile north of town for 40 years has been removed, and the big Atlantic salmon now accompany brook trout in the river. Fall is the best time to catch the salmon migration out of the nearby lake, say from mid-September to mid-October, between Lake Memphremagog and the old powerhouse. After October 1 the season is controlled for artificials only, catch and release, to protect the spawning fish. Keep up with changing regulations in the annual free book that you can pick up at local outfitters like Wright’s Sport Shop in Newport ( 334-1674) or by calling the Department of Fish and Wildlife at  241-3700.

Fly-fishing addicts will especially appreciate the farther stretches of the Clyde River; look for Five Mile Square Road, which connects Route 105 and Route 114 between East Charleston and Island Pond, and find a perfect canoe access and parking area maintained by the state, at the Route 105 end of this back road. In spring especially, it’s quiet except for the trill of the red-winged blackbirds all around.

In late April or early May the trout leap up the falls in Orleans; if you’re in the area, it’s a great sight and a traditional start to the season.

Don’t miss out on the Seyon Lodge at Noyes Pond in Groton State Forest, where only fly-fishing is allowed on the pond ( 584-3829 from May to October; other times, 479-3241; also see On Foot).

In summer, Prouty Beach in Newport has lifeguards; so do Crystal Lake in Barton and Harvey’s Lake in West Barnet. There’s a good beach at the north end of Lake Willoughby. Seymour and Caspian also have swimming beaches. The nice beach Brighton State Park doesn’t get very crowded. For family swimming, the beach on the west shore of Shadow Lake in Glover is small and friendly.

Swimming holes abound on the small rivers. One of the nicest (but swim at your own risk) is Adams Hole, a local "drop in" on the Joe’s Brook between Danville and East Barnet. Get directions locally to the Joe’s Brook Road from Route 5; then head toward Danville and, when the pavement ends, watch for the pull-off about half a mile farther on the right-hand side.

For a trail ride that combines great horses with spectacular vistas, Neal and Cheryl Perry provide some of the nicest-tempered Morgans you’ll ever find. The couple has a farm in Brownington — the Perry Farm — where they welcome riders of all abilities, and will customize trips through the fields and woods and along back roads. They also offer pony rides and, in winter, hayrides and sleighrides, including moonlight versions. The farm is a mile from Brownington’s historic Old Stone House; call for directions. Reserve well in advance, especially during fall foliage season ( 754-2396). To add to the fun, you can stay with the Perrys for a "working" farm vacation and learn how to take care of the horses, fix the fences around the cow pastures, and generally have a great time in the country. Guests have a private apartment.

Debby and Denny Newland at D-N-D Stables say you don’t need to call ahead, just come, on any day in June and July, for a guided hour-long trail ride. The Newlands also offer foliage rides, winter rides, and more, but reservations are important for those. D-N-D is on Route 114 north of East Burke; contact them at  626-8237. For these rides, as for all horse rides, bring along a hat, wear shoes with a heel and, in summer especially, apply insect repellent so that you won’t be slapping at bugs instead of guiding your mount.

Two major ski resorts dominate the downhill recreation in the Northeast Kingdom: Burke and Jay. Both have the plus of short lift lines and plenty of space; both also offer tree skiing and a chance for extreme excitement (with signature of a waiver, of course!).

Burke’s vertical drop of 2,000 feet is more than respectable, and its longest trail is 2.3 miles, also right up there. Although the mountain seems "out in the boonies," actual driving time from Interstate 91 is about half an hour. There are four lifts (a quad, a double, a J-bar and a poma) and 30 trails, including eight black diamond trails. About half the trails have snowmaking coverage (70 overall coverage), which is being steadily expanded. Only one beginner trail asks snowboarders to keep off. Lessons and rentals are available; there are two lodges, and the base lodge has a lounge. Slopeside lodging is condominiums and townhouses ( 877-287-5388). Check snow conditions at  877-754-2875 (regular local phone to the resort is  626-3305). Check their Web site (www.burkemountain. com) for special events like weekend jazz, dances, Cajun food, and races.

Jay Peak has the air of a tiny international resort, and sits practically on the Canadian border. It claims to offer the longest, steepest, and snowiest glades and chutes in the East. The whole mountain is a terrain park in a way — snowboarders have full access to the 285 trail acres and over 100 acres of glades (16 glades). The vertical drop is a heady 2,153 feet, with 64 trails, glades, and chutes (longest trail is three miles), an aerial tramway to the summit, and six lifts, including a pair of T-bars. Snowmaking coverage is 80. Accommodations include a slopeside hotel and condominiums and there are several inns nearby. The ski school includes kids’ versions too. ( 988-2611 or 800-451-4449, snow conditions 988-9601, Web site www.jaypeakresort.com.)

Both Jay and Burke offer cross-country trails. Burke has 40 miles of groomed trails ( 626-3305). Jay has 12 miles ( 988-2611). Less than two miles from the Burke Resort is the Burke Cross Country Ski Area ( 626-8338 or 800-786-8338), a separate center with about 50 miles of trails, mostly groomed for both classic and skating use. There’s a ski shop and rentals, with lessons by appointment.

Specializing in Nordic skiing are the Craftsbury Nordic Center ( 586-7767 or 800-729-7751), with 53 miles of groomed trails, 93 miles total; Hazen’s Notch in Montgomery Center near Jay ( 326-4708), which has 19 miles groomed, 28 miles total; Highland Lodge in Greensboro ( 533-2647), offering 25 miles groomed, 50 miles total; and Heermansmith Farm Inn between Irasburg and Coventry ( 754-8866), with six miles groomed, 19 miles total. Of these, only Heermansmith Farm doesn’t offer a ski shop, rentals, and lessons (but go anyway for the wonderful peace at this little inn). As you can guess from the miles of trail, Craftsbury is really dedicated to the sport and its trails connect with other networks, offering village-to-village touring with return by shuttle bus. Snowshoeing is welcome at all the centers, and Craftsbury has weekend ski camps as well.

Don’t forget the Catamount Trail, Vermont’s end-to-end ski trail. It passes through the Craftsbury Nordic Center and then north through Lowell to Jay Peak. The trail guidebook is available from the Catamount Trail Association (PO Box 1235, Burlington, VT 05402;  864-5794). Of course, the state parks in this region are also open to Nordic skiers, but don’t expect parking areas to be plowed.

The state parks, and especially those in the Northeast Kingdom, offer great winter hiking — and, once the snow gets deep enough, snowshoe trekking. Officially the parks are closed at this time of year, so you won’t find support staff, or even bathrooms (but yes, there are usually outhouses open year-round). A good way to visit and to learn the ropes of winter hiking — for instance, that you try really hard not to get sweaty, a big difference from other seasons — is to join a Green Mountain Club adventure in the snowy months. Learn to pack for day and overnight treks, handle snowshoes skillfully, and take reasonable safety precautions. Have fun with a group interested in learning the same skills. And get a handle on the terrain, so if you come back later on your own (or, for safety’s sake, with a few friends), you’ll know where to go and how to get there. Groton State Forest is a wonderland in winter, the lowlands crisscrossed with animal tracks and the peaks silent and crystalline. There are even lean-to shelters. As usual, plan to cook over as small stove rather than to make fires — camping has changed with better understanding of forest preservation needs. Which brings me back to learning those skills: Get in touch with the GMC at the headquarters on Route 100 in Waterbury Center ( 244-7037).

Snowmobilers have a field day in the Northeast Kingdom. From early December to late April there’s nearly always snowcover, especially in Essex County, which is why Island Pond has become the snowmobile capital of Vermont. The trails, maintained by the Vermont Association of Snow Travelers, also spread into surrounding towns and villages, threading through Danville, all of Barnet, over the wild lands around Burke, and past many a friendly country inn. Groton State Forest, like Maidstone and Brighton, is open to snowmobilers. However, the state Wildlife Management Areas restrict powered vehicles to specific maintained trails, especially to protect deer, which, if startled can easily exhaust themselves in deep snow and die.

More information about this celebrated winter sport is available from the Brighton Snowmobile Club, PO Box 400, Island Pond, VT 05846.

In Island Pond, Barnes Recreation ( 723-6331) gives guided snowmobile tours of Vermont and Canada; feel free to bring your own machine.

To rent a snowmobile by the day, weekend, or week, contact Kingdom Cat Corp. in Island Pond at  723-9702; guided tours are also available here.

For sleigh rides, head to the inns: the Wildflower Inn at Lyndonville ( 626-8310 or 800-627-8310) and Rose Apple Acres Farm Bed & Breakfast in North Troy ( 988-2503). In Albany at Little Hosmer Farm ( 755-6280) the rides in the two-horse box sleigh are followed by mulled cider and cookies.

Ice fishing is a way of life on Lake Memphremagog and on Willoughby; the smaller lakes of Salem, Seymour, and Harvey’s also draw anglers for trout and smelt.

In late January, Craftsbury Outdoor Center often hosts dogsled racing if the snow is good enough. It’s a weekend event, from the "adopt a Musher" program to the races to the Sunday morning mushers’ breakfast and awards. There are sled rides, too. For this year’s date (and to check on snow conditions), call John Broadhead at the Center,  586-7767.

Interested in trying a dogsled yourself Musher Keith Ballek at Hardscrabble Tours in Sheffield, off Interstate 91 north of Lyndonville, offers excursions as long as there’s deep snow. Reservations are required ( 626-9895), and trips can take from a half-hour to a half-day. Ask about snowshoe hikes, too. Expect good conversation, and maybe a mug of hot chocolate when you’re done.

A guided expedition can make a big difference in what wildlife you notice and name, as well as how you navigate the waters or woods. Traveling with resident biologist Will Staats of Kingdom Guide Service will reveal some of the secrets of Victory Bog, the serene glories of the Nulhegan River Basin, or the moose pastures and rugged summits of the mountains of Essex County. Staats puts together personalized one-on-one trips, for a full day or half-day, by canoe, on foot, or both. As a lifelong woodsman and professional biologist, he adds details about animal habits, plant life cycles, and ecology. Various fitness levels are accommodated (but no babies, please, in the canoes). The office is just west of the Gallup Mills "four corners" in Victory, but it’s best to get in touch in advance ( 328-3057).

If you visited Sugarmill Farm Maple Museum in Barton (see Touring), you already know a lot about how the delicately scented sap of the maple tree gets boiled down 40-fold to become sticky, amber maple syrup. Close to Jay is the farming village of Westfield, and on Route 100 is Couture’s Maple Shop ( 744-2733 or 800-845-2733), where Jacques and Pauline Couture invite you to sample their spring crop. They put in 4,000 tree taps each year. In addition to maple syrup, they make maple cream (heavenly on toast), granulated maple sugar, and a maple French dressing. Ask them about French-Canadian culture in this part of the Kingdom, too.

In the 1890s, William Barstow Strong built an observatory in Brownington, a small village popular among Orleans County residents for its back roads and spectacular autumn foliage displays. Strong’s structure was rebuilt by townspeople in 1976 as part of the national bicentennial, and rebuilt again for Brownington’s own bicentennial in 1999. It’s on Prospect Hill and is open from 8:30 a.m. to dusk daily to November 1 (information:  754-2022). To get there, from Interstate 91 take the Orleans exit (Exit 26) and turn east on Route 58. Go through the manufacturing town of Orleans and watch for the sign to Brownington (not Brownington Center), a left turn about a mile from the Interstate. The center of the village is three miles from Route 58, and Prospect Hill is on the left just past the cluster of homes.

Where To Stay

The Fairbanks Motor Inn ( 748-5666, $$) is the newest in town, on Route 2 just west of Main Street; it’s beautifully landscaped and has a heated swimming pool and putting green. The Yankee Traveler Motel ( 748-3156, $-$$) is also on Route 2 just east of Railroad Street, across town. There’s also the Holiday Motel ( 748-8192, $-$$), across Hastings Street from the friendly local restaurant called the Lincoln Inn, which adjoins the Maple Center Motel ( 748-2393, $$); both are at the north end of town.

For truly elegant lodging (and dining), head out of town on Route 2 east and, after a mile, take the right turn onto Route 18; it’s eight miles to Lower Waterford, a "white village," the local name for this picturesque village made up of white houses with green shutters, a New England classic collection. There you will find the Rabbit Hill Inn ( 748-5168 or 800-76BUNNY, $$$$), which enchants guests with sitting rooms, a library, pub, afternoon tea, and a hammock by the pond. Rabbit Hill has been repeatedly named one of America’s 10 best inns; it’s a 200-year-old country classic.

Looking for a compromise between in-town motels and elegant lodging At Exit 1 from Interstate 93 (or reached from the center of St. Johnsbury by taking Route 2 east to meet the interstate highway) is a cozy Victorian home serving as a bed and breakfast: Moonstruck Inn. There are six rooms with private baths, and innkeeper Megan Fletcher enjoys providing a hearty Vermont breakfast (St. Johnsbury,  748-4661, $$).

In West Danville, summer holidays start at Indian Joe Court (PO Box 126, West Danville 05873,  684-3430, $-$$) on the shore of Joe’s Pond, easily located on Route 2. In the village of Danville, watch for signs to Emergo Farm Bed & Breakfast at 261 Webster Hill ( 684-2215 or 800-383-1185; e-mail emergo@together.net, $$), where antiques and family heirlooms add to the charm of the sitting room and two guestrooms at the farmhouse. Emergo Farm is great in winter too, with sledding on Webster Hill and nearby cross-country skiing. Or head east of Danville on Route 2 to Dole Hill, where Sugar Ridge RV Village and Campground recently opened ( 684-2550).

Barnet offers a pair of bed-and-breakfast homes, both on Route 5, which passes through the village of Barnet (there are four other villages within this spread-out town). The Inn at Maplemont Farm is an elegant turn-of-the century farmhouse filled with antiques, handmade quilts, and music boxes ( 230-1617 or 800-230-1617, $$-$$$), and is just south of the village. The Old Homestead, within walking distance north of the general store, is an 1850 Colonial that has been an inn since 1919. Innkeeper Gail Warnaar loves to bake ( 633-4016, $$-$$$). Both are close to the Connecticut River, so bring a canoe or kayak, or plan to bike along the rolling river-valley roads.

A Federal period home in town offers five rooms for guests, at Branch Brook Bed & Breakfast ( 626-8316 or 800-572-7712, $$). Or you can go to the north end of town and take Route 114 to the first marked left turn up Darling Hill to the Wildflower Inn ( 626-8310 or 800-627-8310, $$-$$$$), where the gardens and the view across Willoughby Gap would almost be enough alone, without the charming inn rooms and the scrumptious meals. A romantic cottage is perfect for honeymoons. Families are also welcome, and there’s a small petting farm as well as heated pool, tennis courts, spa and sauna.

Right up on Burke Mountain is the Old Cutter Inn ( 626-5152 or 800-295-1943, $$), on the road from East Burke to the resort. This is a country farmhouse with lovely grounds and a heated pool; the adjoining restaurant is one of the area’s finest, offering Swiss cuisine. In the village of East Burke near Bailey’s Country Store (a general store with room after room of old-fashioned, tasty or lovely treats) is the Village Inn of East Burke ( 626-3161, e-mail villgin@together.net, $$).

The Inn at Mountain View Creamery was once the noted farm estate of hotel magnate Elmer A. Darling, the one for whom Darling Hill is named. The red-brick creamery building has been transformed by innkeepers Marilyn and John Pastore into a 10-room inn furnished with antiques and handmade quilts. The gracious little restaurant, Darling’s Country Bistro, offers chef-prepared specialties, and in gentle weather guests can dine on the patio, which has a stunning view of Burke Mountain. A full country breakfast is served. Access to Kingdom Trails for hiking, mountain biking, and cross-country skiing begins beyond the barns, with 440 acres of rolling hills. The Pastores put together regular outdoor programs with local ski-and-cycle-enthusiast John Worth to enrich use of the meadows and slopes and introduce beginners to new adventures. Sleigh rides and hayrides can be requested in advance. A special note: Early in December, guests at the inn can visit a Christmas tree farm and select their own fresh, fragrant tree to be cut and sent home with them, at a modest farm price. The inn also has facilities for group retreats and family reunions, and there will soon be a spa in one of the remodeled barns. Massage is already available by advance arrangement. Mailing address: Mountain View Creamery, Box 355, Darling Hill Road, East Burke, VT 05832.  626-9924; Web site www.innmtnview.com; $$-$$$$.

Around the area are bed and breakfasts and small inns such as the Garrison Inn ( 626-8329 or 800-773-1914, $$) and Das German Haus ( 626-8568, $$).

The bed-and-breakfast homes in Barton and Glover each offer a special activity: The Anglin’ B &B ( 525-4548, Web site www.anglinbb.com, $$) is located on Crystal Lake, ready for you to drop in a line. Our Village Inn B&B ( 800-525-3380, e-mail ourvinn@sover.net, $$) has an antique shop in the barn. In West Glover, on Lake Parker, Tranquillity Farm ( 525-3646, $$) offers dedicated birding, complete with a guide if you like. And at the Rodgers Country Inn ( 525-6677 or 800-729-1704, $), where hospitality has been offered for many years in the 1840 farmhouse, there are small animals for petting and a dairy farm down the road. Snow travelers appreciate the Pinecrest Motel & Cabins ( 525-3472, $) on Route 5 north of Barton, directly on the snowmobile corridor trail maintained by VAST, the Vermont Association of Snow Travelers.

The nearby village of Albany is slowly opening its sleepy farming vistas to visitors, and there on Route 14 Jon and Kate Fletcher have opened their cozy Victorian home as the Village House Inn & Restaurant. There are eight guest rooms, each with private bath, and dinner is served with a flourish of fresh produce ( 755-6722, $$). A mile north of Albany village is McCleary Brook Antiques and Gifts ( 755-6344, www.collectoronline/collect/booth-21.html), open weekends from 10 to 6 and by appointment.

On the east shore of Lake Willoughby, actually in the small village of Westmore but only eight miles east of Barton village, is the Willoughvale Inn ( 525-4123 or 800-594-9102, $$-$$$), which has a superb restaurant adjoining the small cluster of rooms. The view from the front porch out over the lake is breathtaking, and the gardens are charming.

Whether you’re here for the winter snowmobiling or the summer fun on the lake, the Lakefront Motel offers practical vacation accommodations ranging from standard rooms to efficiencies to suites. There are boat rentals, too (Cross Street,  723-6507, $-$$).

Anglers, hunters, and dedicated hikers and botanists sometimes find their way east of Island Pond. Up in Canaan, Jackson’s Lodge & Log Cabin Village provides a peaceful retreat at Lake Wallace ( 266-3360, $-$$). Averill, as far north as Canaan but a little to the west, is the home of Quimby Country, where the lodge and 20 cottages are the heart of a 700-acre family resort that provides meals, picnics, cookouts, and sports, as well as complimentary canoes and rowboats. Ask about special rates for spring fishing and fall foliage ( 822-5533, $-$$$).

This little town just south of Newport on Route 14 has waterfalls, good fishing, and the very comfortable and peaceful inn at Heermansmith Farm ( 754-8866, $$). Jack and Louise Smith encourage a simple vacation of walks, fishing, a little Nordic skiing, some quiet conversation and reading, and plenty of good food and fine wines.

Derby Line, the northern village beyond Derby, right on the Canadian border, has the more picturesque selection of inns. The Derby Village Inn Bed & Breakfast is in an elegant Victorian village home ( 873-3604, Web site http://homepages.together.net/~dvibandb, $$); innkeepers are Catherine McCormick and Sheila Steplar. There’s also the Birchwood B&B ( 873-9104, $$, ask about the canopy bed). On Main Street in Derby is the Border Motel ( 766-2088 or 800-280-1898, $), where there’s a long tradition of evening entertainment, especially on weekends.

To the east of Derby, if you’re fishing at Seymour Lake, the Seymour Lake Lodge ( 895-2752, $-$$) welcomes guests to its homey atmosphere, with guide Dave Benware at the breakfast table with you.

Newport has a handful of motels; a stop at the Newport Chamber of Commerce office on the "Causeway" (where the interstate meets the town’s shopping plaza) will get you brochures from all of them and a reservation at the same time (or you can also call the Chamber for the same service,  334-7782). Some listings for cottages and rentals on Lakes Memphremagog, Seymour, and Salem are also found at the Chamber of Commerce.

If you’re not staying at the slopeside lodging of the resort ( 800-451-4449), you can use the same number for free reservation services at the Black Lantern Inn, a restored 1803 stagecoach stop with a wonderful restaurant ( 326-4507 or 800-255-8661, $$-$$$), the Schneehutte Inn, with a German-American restaurant ( 988-4020, $$), the Jay Village Inn, a popular country inn with a casual lounge ( 988-2306 or 800-565-5641, $$), and the Inn on Trout River, a historic inn with superb dining ( 338-7049, $$-$$$). Jay also has a pair of ski lodges, the Snowline ( 988-2822 or 800-638-4661, $) and the Woodshed ( 988-4444 or 800-495-4445, $).

Make the most of the old-fashioned elegance of these two summer havens by staying at inns where authors, artists, politicians and sincere vacation lovers have stayed for decades: the Inn on the Common in Craftsbury Common ( 586-9619 or 800-521-2233, $$$), with its luxurious rooms and fabulous cuisine; the Craftsbury Inn in Craftsbury ( 586-2848 or 800-336-2848, $$$), an 1850 country inn with gourmet dining; and Highland Lodge in Greensboro ( 533-2647, e-mail Hlodge@connriver.net, $$$$), where 120 acres of woods, fields and beach accommodate hikers, Nordic skiers, boaters, and anglers.

If you’re looking for an energizing vacation, the place to stay is the Craftsbury Outdoor Center (which in winter is the Nordic Center;  800-729-7751, $$), on 140 acres, with simple lodging and wonderful healthy food to go along with the many programs in hiking, running, sculling, mountain biking, Nordic skiing and snowshoeing.

Another Greensboro gem is the Lakeview Inn & Café/Bakery (call for directions,  533-2291, $$), in a restored historic home near Caspian Lake. The 12 guest rooms are filled with antiques and have private baths. Innkeepers Kathryn Unser and John Hunt offer a country breakfast in the sunny dining room or out on the porch, with its views of mountains and garden.

One of the nicest campgrounds in this region is in West Barnet: Harvey’s Lake Cabins and Campground, with 53 sites (190 Campers Lane, Barnet, VT 05821,  633-2213, Web site www. harveyslakecabins.com). It’s the only campground on the 350-acre lake. In addition to rowboat, canoe, and bike rentals, they offer group rates, retreats, and receptions. The campground was a 1999 Yankee Magazine "Editor’s Pick of the Year."

Other private campgrounds, mostly open from mid-May to mid-October, are Belview (Barton,  525-3242), Burke Mountain (East Burke,  626-1204), Char-Bo (Derby,  766-8807), Fireside (Derby,  766-5109), Idle Hours (Hardwick,  472-6732), Lakeside (Island Pond,  723-6649 or 723-6331), Moose River (St. Johnsbury,  748-4334), Mill Brook (Westfield,  744-6673), White Caps ( 467-3345), and Will-O-Wood (Orleans, overlooking Lake Willoughby,  525-3575).

A new family campground in North Concord, Breezy Meadows Campground, offers a place to pause before exploring the bog country of Essex County. Sites are not especially private, but kids enjoy the large pool, basketball and volleyball courts, shuffleboard, horseshoes, and playground, and there are three miles of nature trails, as well as access to the Moose River for canoeing or fishing. Breezy Meadows is east of St. Johnsbury on Route 2. (Wendel Road, PO Box 326, Concord, VT 05824;  695-9949, off-season phone 603-788-3624; Web site www.gocampingamerica.com.)

Camping at Brighton State Park ( 723-4360) includes secluded spots on Spectacle Pond, and there are nature trails and a nature museum, as well as boating. Farther to the southeast is Maidstone State Park ( 676-3930), where there’s a boat ramp and boat rentals.

Groton State Forest offers five campgrounds, ranging from busy lakeshore sites to more primitive locations. For a full description of the forest, see On Foot. Phone numbers for the campgrounds are: New Discovery,  584-3820; Ricker Pond, 584-3821; Big Deer and Stillwater,  584-3822. Group arrangements can be made, and there are lean-to shelters as an alternative to tenting. The fly-fishing retreat at Seyon Ranch (see On Water) is also part of this immense state forest. Rangers are on hand from May 15 to October 15, and there are many afternoon and evening programs, some featuring natural history, others offering local musicians and storytellers. For general information and maps, visit the Vermont State Parks Web site, www.cit.state.vt.us/anr/fpr/parks. You can also contact Stillwater Campground through Ranger Jim Dresser by e-mail, jdresser@plainfield.bypass.com (May 15-October 15). Reservations are strongly advised.

Where To Eat

Northern Lights Book Shop and Café ( 748-4463), on Railroad Street, offers breakfast and lunch, with omelets, homemade soups, and good croissants. On Thursday and Friday evenings the café serves dinner also.

Anthony’s Diner ( 748-3613), also on Railroad Street, is a St. Johnsbury tradition; ask for the Woodsman Burger. The Miss Vermont Diner ( 748-9751) on Route 5 north of town is noted for its hearty hot meals and tasty strawberry pie.

Head north on Railroad Street, out of the center of town, through one modest traffic light at Concord Avenue and to the next one, at a busy three-way intersection. On the right is an old creamery building, and tucked into one end of it is Cucina Di Gerardo, a modest-sized Italian restaurant with wonderful sauces and frequent indulgence in generous portions of seafood. The pasta dishes are best, and the volcano pizza is unusual and flavorful. Ask about the special pesto marinara sauce. Devora and Gerardo have plenty of "regulars" dining there, and on a weekend you’ll definitely need a reservation ( 748-6772). By the way, the local bagel shop is at the far end of the same building, if you get one of those Saturday morning cravings.

For good deli food and hefty sandwiches, try Tim’s Deli ( 748-3118) on Route 2 at the east edge of town, on the corner of Concord Avenue.

This "white village" is close to St. Johnsbury. Take Route 2 east of town to the intersection with Route 18, which reaches Lower Waterford in eight miles and brings you to the Rabbit Hill Inn ( 748-5168). The Northeast Kingdom’s most elegant service and beautifully served cuisine is also delicious, with unusual sauces and intriguing combinations of fruit. Dessert is a feast in itself. Music often accompanies weekend dining.

When you get to the center of Danville on Route 2, turn north at the blinking light onto Hill Street; the Creamery Restaurant ( 684-3616) is a block down on the right and serves excellent food, with a constantly changing blackboard menu. Be sure to save room for the maple cream pie. A pub downstairs serves more casual cuisine on weekends.

The Miss Lyndonville Diner ( 626-9890) is a sister to the Miss Vermont in St. Johnsbury, and offers a hearty breakfast, good burgers, and good old-fashioned puddings. Just north of the diner on the other side of Route 5 is Holly Berry’s ( 626-3546), a bakery where the muffins are meal size and the coffee good.

On the main street of town, Depot Street, there are hearty vegetarian lunches cooked to individual preference at Avery’s Kitchen ( 748-3587).

In the center of town is the River Garden Café ( 626-3514), where the chef changes the blackboard menu daily, often including smoked salmon or poached fruit in the breakfast specials, and exquisite Italian entrées at dinner.

Behind Bailey’s Country Store is the Trout River Brewery ( 626-3984); the microbrewery offers six different brews, some of which are also served at the nearby Pub Out Back ( 626-1188), where the casual menu accompanies a relaxed evening atmosphere; there are massive sandwiches.

Go up the Mountain Road toward the slopes of Burke Mountain and find the Old Cutter Inn ( 626-5152) for exquisite Swiss cuisine. Arrive hungry, and don’t plan to do anything energetic afterward.

Take the road west out of the village, climbing slowly uphill to the left until you come to the Darling Hill Road (also reached from Lyndonville). Here is Darling’s ( 626-9924), a fine restaurant at the Inn at Mountain View Creamery. Do make reservations.

The Willoughvale Inn ( 525-4123 or 800-594-9102, Web site www. willoughvale.com) is only eight miles from the village of Barton; take Route 16 east to Lake Willoughby, turn down the East Shore Road (Route 5A) and the inn is on the left. The view over the narrow gouge of the lake is exhilarating, the gardens are charming, and the food is classic cuisine with a delicate hand on the fresh fish.

There are a wide variety of eateries in and around Newport, from pizza to German and Italian cuisine. The East Side ( 334-2340) offers family dining on the shore of Lake Memphremagog. The Hidden Country Restaurant ( 744-6149) in nearby Lowell serves mini-meals if you arrive early enough, and offers a good prime rib. During the summer the Newport Country Club ( 334-1634) is open to guests and provides pleasant dining.

Heermansmith Farm Inn ( 754-8866; see Where To Stay) is open for dinner; call ahead to be sure there’s room at the inn. The meals are excellent and the wine list unusually good.

For a sandwich or a backpacker’s lunch, the Jay Country Store ( 988-4040) is a friendly place to stop. If you’re looking for a more formal dinner, head over the mountain and down Route 242 to Montgomery Center, then north onto Route 118 to the Black Lantern Inn ( 326-4507 or 800-255-8661) for exquisite candlelight dining. The Inn on Trout River ( 326-4391 or 800-338-7049) is in Montgomery Village and also offers fine cuisine. For a sense of both romance and humor as well as superb dining, leave Montgomery on Route 58 and head eastward into Hazen’s Notch. About a mile up the mountain is Zack’s on the Rocks ( 326-4500), where the "brown paper" menu changes often and the chef, your host, creates an atmosphere of unusual joy in both the cuisine and the customers. Roast duck, delicate salmon dishes, and chicken banana are among the entrées. Plan to stay all evening; reservations are necessary.

Driving to Greensboro for Sunday brunch at the Highland Lodge ( 533-2647) is a fine way to savor the weekend. Be sure to call for hours, which vary by season. Dinner is sumptuous, befitting an inn where most guests are busy all day either boating, hiking, or skiing cross country.

Later in the day, slip a few miles beyond Greensboro to East Hardwick, where Perennial Pleasures Nursery ( 472-5104) offers a "cream tea" in the tea garden. Reservations are requested.